rmx250 questions

[oilspot]

The rear tire is pretty much shot on my bike. It's currently got a 110/100 18 on it. I picked up a good used 120/100 18 but am wondering if it will be too much tire on the rear. It doesn't seem that much bigger but I'd rather ask than find out the hard way.
The bike is bone stock at this point. I'm going to run the 89' rm head gasket and possibly the thicker cylinder gasket (eric gorr book recomendation). I'm hoping to have the cash fairly soon to add a aftermarket pipe and silencer but for now that's just not possible.
So for now it's prety much stock power. (I figure some bike info would help figuring if I've got enough power for the bigger tire).

 

[apb]

That tire should be fine, in my opinion, especially once you can get an aftermarket pipe on there and then get the carb re-jetted. It sounds like you're mostly trail riding, from your other posts, so this should just help with traction and loss of a bit of acceleration shouldn't be an issue. I really like my setup with just the '89 rm head gasket, but I have an fmf pipe (and have only been using the 110/100 tire on back). I don't think you'll see much difference with just the head gasket though, until you get the exhaust upgraded -- thats the biggest single improvement you can make to the bike's power. Hope that helps.

 

[rushy08]

yeh itll work great for trail riding especially once youve tuned the bike up

 

[oilspot]

I figure I'll do the head gasket now because I'm going to pull the head so I can mic and inspect the bore.
I'm going to start putting aside funds for the pipe as soon as I can. How restrictive is the stock silencer. I want to put a turbinecore on with the pipe but it will defanantly be easier to do one at a time.

 

[placelast]

Drop me a line before you do the top end as I have the ball hone Eric recommends, for your use.

As far as exhaust, my then new the FMF pipe had to be beat with a hammer to clear the gas tank (partial melting of the bottom) and kick starter, whereas the Turbine Core S/A rubbed the stock-sized tire (a larger tire would rub even more). My second exhaust was full ProCircuit: perfect bolt-up fit! And no tire rubbing.

Also the FMF was pre-stressed at the pipe joint, which resulted in more than one muffler inlet failure; combined with rust, it had to be repaired every two years.

FMF may have a better bottom response (minimum) but it's not worth the poorer fitment and loss of longetivity over the PC. PC seemed to have better top end and certainly better plating.

An after market carbon-fiber guard is costly, although having one would minimize dent repair - recommended. The aluminum ones make noise and are ugly, though functional.

Back to tires, I'd recommend the stock size as optimum because there are times when you want it to break loose and spin rather than hookup, and the geometry stock, if possible. If you can return it for the correct size then do that, though having a larger one for trail riding would not hurt. Put an extra heavy duty tub in with it, especially with the cacti we have around here. I have some very good tire irons if you want to use them.

 

[76GMC1500]

I do agree with the preference for stock tires. Too much traction in the rear upsets the balance of the bike. The front end will wash out before the rear slips. A front wheel slide can be difficult to control. Wide tires are great for hill climbing.

I think the aluminum guards look good. Nothing says 80's like pipe armor.

 

[oilspot]

Just got off the phone with pro curcit. They don't make a pipe for my rmx anymore.
I really look forward to laying down a bunch of cash and then having to hammer on a brand new part.
Hopefully they've made some revisions with the design!



update: found out locally that it was probably unthreaded at some time, and that I should be able to put all the pieces back together fairly easily... It was good news to me. I can only imagine how much a new clicker setup for the top of that fork would set me back.

 

[oilspot]

New issue with the fixing up of my bike...
I figured I'd go ahead and return all the suspensions dampening settings back to factory so I could start dialing them in. So each adjuster went all the way in and out ten clicks.... except for the top clicker on one of the forks. It doesn't bottom out, it just keeps turning. Any idea of what could be the problem?
I'm not sure what make the forks are. They have the "comp" marking by the bottom adjusters.
Having a 98' bike with a manual that goes up to 95' is really frustrating! I'm looking forward to getting the correct manual.


p.s. thank you placelast for offering up help with the hone and tire irons. I appreciate it greatly!!!

 

[uts]

hey mc1500,

That shot of you on your old beast makes me miss my 86 cr250. It was such a crackin good bike. I wish I never sold it.
mid-late eighties cr's were so cool. That's it, ive just decided to get another one. MAybe even a 500.

Thanks for the inspiration.

utsman

 

[oilspot]

carb settings

I'm sorry to keep hitting everybody up with questions. I'm just hell bent to get this bike running good as soon as possible.
I got the chain/ sprockets in order. Changed out all the fluids. And did a top end inspection.
I was taking a small test ride and stalled the bike out. I look down and noticed that the carb was peeing out of one of the overflow tubes. I'm assuming that the needle valve seat has some crud that stuck it opened. It quit after a few seconds but I figure that I need to clean out the carb for sure now. I'd really hate draining all the gas out of my bike 20 miles from home.
The only info I don't have is how many turns out the pilot screw is supposed to be. My manual, that only covers up to 1995 has three settings for three seperate years.
Anybody know how many turns out the pilot screw should be for a 1998 rmx 250?
If I get the carb cleaned out tonight and set correctly I can hopefully do some riding tommorow.


I'm going to keep posting any rmx questions in this one thread to try to keep the clutter down. Mabey that way it can help a rmx owner easier in the future also.

 

[apb]

You want to start with the pilot air screw 1.5 turns out, then adjust as needed to get best throttle response from 0 to 1/4 throttle positions -- the air screw position will change with different temperatures and weather conditions. If you need to go less than 1/2 turn out, or more than 2.5 turns out, that means you need a different size pilot jet in the carb.