Sheared fork stop tab on Frame

[klikboom]

SO i went over the bars HARD last weekend landing a step-up and i noticed when I was replacing my front number plate, that the tab on the front of the frame was half-sheared off. (I have a 2003 RM 250)

Has anyone re-welded one on without removing the head tube bearings? I don't have the tool to remove the bottom triple clamp. The tab is not all the way off so I'm going to just ride it for now.

If i do remove the bearings and re-weld the tab on will the head tube likely warp? IT is a big chunk of steel, but I would like to know if anyone has done this before? Let me know is there is a good way to go about it's repair.

Thanks a ton!

 

[wornknobby]

are you talking about the stoppers that make it so your bars can only turn so much?

if so, i have seen al sorts of things done, from welding , to tapping drilling and adding bolts. any thing will work as long as it doesn't limit your turning abilities.

 

[phranticness]

I'd cut a little peice of iron stock to the same size as the original stop, grind of the remainder of the stop and tack on the new stop, with a wet rag I'd cool it off and tack it again, then cool it, do this untill it's solid. the tack and cool method keeps from damaging the paint to much too....I would'nt sweat dissasembing the neck bearings, if you keep it cool the grease will stay were it's supposed to.

 

[klikboom]

Yes I am talking about the stopper that limits the turning radius.

The tack and cool method sounds like a good method. I'll give that a try tommorrow. Thanks a lot!

 

[klikboom]

i ended up taking apart the headset and removing the stem and bearings. I shoved a wet rag inside the headtube, then MIG welded the tab on, stopping every quarter length to dowse with wet rag and cool. It worked great looks like factory minus the powder coating.

 

[Jeff Gilbert]

Did you pull the ignition off before you welded it?

 

[klikboom]

I removed the CDI from the front of the frame. It starts up, im going to test ride it tommorrow