sprocket Q's (not ratio Q's)

M

mnnthbx

Member

Apr 1, 2003

301

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #1

I now run a 12-48 and like the ratio. Both sprockets and chain are ready for a replace. I would like to go to a 13-52, as I'm sure it would be better for chain life.

Is there a disadvantage to the larger rear sprocket? (clearance in tight rocks etc...)

Will the Moose or Fredette chain guards have enough room.

How long does an aluminum rear last? I assume the stocker is steel?

Thanks.

 

R

rethnal

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Jul 14, 2002

659

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #2

Steel always lasts longer... If your not worried about weight.... get steel!

 

B

bcVulcan

Member

Nov 13, 2002

241

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #3

I run a 13/50 on my 220. What are your riding? 13/50 is great in tight woods. That's all I ride. 13/52 is going to be pretty low. Definitely go with cheap steel sprockets.

 

1

1tontj

Member

Mar 19, 2004

328

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #4

I got a TWO piece rear sprocket fairly cheap. Center is light aluminum, outer ring is long wearing steel. Best of both worlds (light and long lasting) and it was only $49 at my supplier.

Phil

 

M

mnnthbx

Member

Apr 1, 2003

301

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• Sep 30, 2004

• Thread starter
• #5

it was only $49 at my supplier

Click to expand...

and that is......

 

K

KAY DEE EXER

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Mar 3, 2003

629

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #6

Drumroll please.................................................

 

1

1tontj

Member

Mar 19, 2004

328

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #7

Heehee - you guys are funny.

I now buy ALL my parts from Central Alabama Motorsports.
They are great guys to deal with, great service, and their prices are really nice and low.
Plus as a canadian it really helps that they are willing to take my parts to the post office to ship them since this saves me paying UPS brokerage fees.

I highly reccomend these guys. You can call them at 205-280-0601. Tell them Phil Jensen sent you, and it might get you even better pricing (not sure, but I buy a lot of stuff there now for my friends (non computer types ;) ) and I.

Hope that helps.

Phil

 

C

canyncarvr

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Oct 14, 1999

4,005

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #8

You won't use the same length chain for the 12/48 that you need for a 13/50.

But...you knew that, right?

110 should be good for a 13/50.
108 for a 12/48.

 

M

mnnthbx

Member

Apr 1, 2003

301

0

• Sep 30, 2004

• Thread starter
• #9

I'll be getting A D.I.D. chain. It comes in 120 link length.

 

K

KAY DEE EXER

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Mar 3, 2003

629

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #10

canyncarvr said:

110 should be good for a 13/50.
108 for a 12/48.

Click to expand...

Just wondering CC if that equates to;

109 for a 13/49

?????

Im running a 110 link with 13/49 and its all brand new but its almost at it adjusting limit. Just curious if that is why.

Sorry I dont mean to hijack this thread!!!

 

C

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~

Oct 14, 1999

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #11

I guess you could always run a 120 on top of the idler roller...........;)

 

C

canyncarvr

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Oct 14, 1999

4,005

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #12

Here's the rules. You hijack the thread you get the smartaleck answer. ;)

Please do try 109 links and let me know how THAT goes together for 'ya. :think:

(Thass'a joke, son!)

Oh..yes, that is why.

 

gwcrim

~SPONSOR~

Oct 3, 2002

1,881

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #13

There is a reason to avoid small sprockets. They cause more parasitic power loss as the chain is worked harder to pivot around smaller diameter sprocket. Making that sharper turn also wears the chain faster.

How much is this all worth? I dunno!

 

B

BRush

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Jun 5, 2000

1,100

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #14

53 is pretty big. You might have issues with chain guide clearance. Re parasitic power loss. It's one of those things, that while theoretically correct, does not have much of a real-world effect.

 

T

TEEEE

Member

Jul 18, 2004

56

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• Sep 30, 2004

• #15

My bike (used) came with a 13/49 setup and a 110-link, and yes, the adjusters were way out there. But a new 108-link was too short.

My fear of odd numbers and chains with homosexual end links keeps me from trying the 109.