static timing

[davisdrafting]

adjusting the static timing

when adjusting the static timing would I be turning the pickup or the stator?

The timing is not adjustable on my bike so I need to slot the holes just wondering
which ones to slot.

92 Yamaha WR200RD


Also what is the max degrees in either direction from stock
position?

Eric Gorr states, “Never rotate the stator plate more than .028in/.7mm past the original standard timing mark”

But that depends on what radius from center of crank
the timing marks are at.

 

[davisdrafting]

What is the typical advance in degrees people set their static timing at.

I adjusted my stator plate 2.5 degrees and now my WR200RD has lots of low-end.
thinking on advancing it more but don’t want to overheat the combustion chamber to much.

 

[davisdrafting]

So I take it no one advances there timing on this forum?

 

[Flummo]

I don't know why, but ignition tuning seems to be forgotten on offroad bikes (and others too, for that matter). Considering how much power you may find if the standard timing is a little off it is well worth doing some testing, and the optimal setting may vary quite alot due to production tolerances...

 

[wornknobby]

i will tell you this, the holes you want to slot are the ones that the holdong screws go in. now in the past i have played games w advancing and retarding timing on kx's, cr's, and such.
but what i have found is,(at least in my case on 2-stroke racing bikes) is that just retarding the timing alittle lets the bike run smoother and i can change my gearing to compensate. and it obviously helps the over rev alittle and lets the motor run alittle cooler. (hotter pipe)

now to answer you question, when eric gorr says not to go beyond .7mm. I THINK, I'm not 100% on this but i think you can measure that distance from the center of your mounting hole and file no further than .7mm in both directions. not sure on exactly how to measure this, but i make sure i just do alittle at a time.

another thing you could try is seeing if the yz's use a similar stator plate, b/c those are adjustable. just a thought.

sorry if this doesn't answer your question, but hope it helps. :cool:

 

[davisdrafting]

I have already filed the holes in the stator plate. but before
I did I made a center mark on the stator and the case.
The stator is 120mm in diameter and I advanced it 2.5 degrees
thus turning the stator clockwise 2.618mm. So I think Gorr’s
statement is ether incorrect or misunderstood in what is being
measured.

This has made a serious improvement to my WR I have lots
of low-end, the spark plug is a nice tan color now. It feels like
I gained 5hp. It isn’t a stock motor though it’s bored 20 over
with a blaster piston, I shaved and cc’d the head and textured the intake ports

Maybe the 20 over advanced the port timing so now the static
timing is closer now?

 

[Flummo]

So I think Gorr’s
statement is ether incorrect or misunderstood in what is being
measured.

I agree. Mr Gorr undoubtedly knows alot more about engines than any of us, but that statement has (the way I understand it anyway) at least one big flaw: production tolerances.
Most of the ignition parts are screwed together, and as the holes usually are bigger than the screws that means that the coils can be moved (intentionally or not) a couple of degrees on the stator plate without moving the plate with the timing markings itself.

The next point would be that diffrent engines will want diffrent ignition settings due to port timings/shapes, compression ratios etc. varying due to production tolerances. If we add a enginetuner to that mess we end up with something even worse, as he alters alot of factors that may affect the optimal ignition setting when he shaves the head, cleans up the ports, changes the exhaust and start running some racefuel...

All that said, mr Gorr probably has some reason to say what he said too. I just can't figure out what that might be...