stock jets
- Thread starter boy san
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Originally posted by gooleo
i think he has a '02 200. i read a thread a few days ago and saw that. i have the same bike so i remembered an compared mods.
If this is true then you have 42 pilot, 145 mian and r1173 needle.
Std jetting with airbox lid mod and new pipe is leave main and pilot alone, move needle down one notch (raise clip) and ride. YMMV in different altitudes and temperatures. I personally think the stock needle is a little lean and recommend a CEL with stock carb.
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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Ha! Orange is making you s-l-o-w, fred!!
What 23jay said! Note the 'likely' part. Dealers have been known to change things even on new bikes!! What jay lists is indeed the oem spec for the 'H' model 200 kawi. Easiest way to know what YOU have is to check what YOU have.
BTW, a stock needle chart is on CDave's site:
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net
under <tech tips> <understanding jet needles>
(Man....I can't believe how many times I've linked that site)
Do yourself a favor. Replace the bowl screws with some allen heads. Get a ball end wrench to wrench 'em. Use an anti-seize compound on the threads when you put them in.
dazza: picky picky picky ;)
What 23jay said! Note the 'likely' part. Dealers have been known to change things even on new bikes!! What jay lists is indeed the oem spec for the 'H' model 200 kawi. Easiest way to know what YOU have is to check what YOU have.
BTW, a stock needle chart is on CDave's site:
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net
under <tech tips> <understanding jet needles>
(Man....I can't believe how many times I've linked that site)
Do yourself a favor. Replace the bowl screws with some allen heads. Get a ball end wrench to wrench 'em. Use an anti-seize compound on the threads when you put them in.
dazza: picky picky picky ;)
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Originally posted by Fred T
If this is true then you have 42 pilot, 145 mian and r1173 needle.
Std jetting with airbox lid mod and new pipe is leave main and pilot alone, move needle down one notch (raise clip) and ride. YMMV in different altitudes and temperatures. I personally think the stock needle is a little lean and recommend a CEL with stock carb.
And what effect (harder hit, smoother transition) would the CEL needle have, compared to the stock needle, and what position would a guy want to start in compared to #2 on the stock needle? Who makes the "CEL" needle? Just wondering if the local Kawi shop might stock one.
If this is true then you have 42 pilot, 145 mian and r1173 needle.
Std jetting with airbox lid mod and new pipe is leave main and pilot alone, move needle down one notch (raise clip) and ride. YMMV in different altitudes and temperatures. I personally think the stock needle is a little lean and recommend a CEL with stock carb.
And what effect (harder hit, smoother transition) would the CEL needle have, compared to the stock needle, and what position would a guy want to start in compared to #2 on the stock needle? Who makes the "CEL" needle? Just wondering if the local Kawi shop might stock one.
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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That's a keihin number. Sudco, carbparts (for examples) sell keihin parts. Sudco..800-998-3529 or carbparts.com
The 'R1174K' (ex) needle is a kawi proprietary needle FOR the keihin carb.
'C' is the taper of the needle...1º34". The oem kawi is a 'B' series needle, or 1º15" (that's 1 1/2º and 1 1/4º respectively).
Start the CEL @ #3.
Note the kawi 'K' needle has a 38.60mm L1, the CEK is 38.15mm. The distance between the clips is .90mm. At the same clip postions then, the CEL is 1/2 a clip shorter (richer) than the 'K'.
My experience with the faster taper 'C' compared to a 'B' is that it hits harder.
Maybe one down on the pilot with the CEL over the R1174K due to diameter (2.705 vs. 2.735mm) differences.
The 'R1174K' (ex) needle is a kawi proprietary needle FOR the keihin carb.
'C' is the taper of the needle...1º34". The oem kawi is a 'B' series needle, or 1º15" (that's 1 1/2º and 1 1/4º respectively).
Start the CEL @ #3.
Note the kawi 'K' needle has a 38.60mm L1, the CEK is 38.15mm. The distance between the clips is .90mm. At the same clip postions then, the CEL is 1/2 a clip shorter (richer) than the 'K'.
My experience with the faster taper 'C' compared to a 'B' is that it hits harder.
Maybe one down on the pilot with the CEL over the R1174K due to diameter (2.705 vs. 2.735mm) differences.
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OLD-N-SLOW
Member
- Nov 21, 2000
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Dang CC. you got a lot of info in a small space! Could it be your getting less windy? Lets hope not, as I for one like reading your broken,
staggerd and sometimes funny replies.
Boy san and sledman please reread cc's last reply!!! Thats $100.00 worth of info. Please make check payable to old-n-slow c/o DRN.
Steve
staggerd and sometimes funny replies.
Boy san and sledman please reread cc's last reply!!! Thats $100.00 worth of info. Please make check payable to old-n-slow c/o DRN.
Steve
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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O&S: I'm reacting to a 'lesson' I got recently regarding being unspecific, verbose and wide of the point. :(
Don't know about the less windy part. Flatulence (complete w/oily discharge, an increased tendency toward and inability to control it) wasn't part of the lesson.
Broken? Staggered? Those are good things?? ;)
Don't know about the less windy part. Flatulence (complete w/oily discharge, an increased tendency toward and inability to control it) wasn't part of the lesson.
Broken? Staggered? Those are good things?? ;)
Yep, you guys are right. I missread that and thought I read a 220. My mistake. CC made the call and reasoning on the CEL. The 1/2 clip richer thing in the midrange keeps the bike running stronger. Jet needles are like $5.00 a piece so getting a few to try is a good idea.
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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I haven't verified this, but I believe JD said to try to match needle profiles at 1/4 throttle? Anyway...a CEL/1174K comparison (thanks to JD's spreadsheet!) shows that to be so.
A key point to keep in mind with needles... The faster the slope (higherº number) the LATER the angle starts on the needle given the same L1. THAT'S because L1 is really NOT the length of the straight section, but the length TO a 2.515mm diameter. That's referred to as the 'magic number'.
So, if you angle steeper, you start later. Make sense?
That's one of the reasons that although the CEL is a shorter needle it's clipped lower, too.
One more thing (I'm rolling now O&S!). If you end up looking for a throttle valve (slide), give ron @ RB Designs (of RB carb mod fame) a call. I ordered a #6 (#5 stock) twice, got the wrong part twice. The whole process took weeks!
Ron had the correct one to me in a couple of days.
A key point to keep in mind with needles... The faster the slope (higherº number) the LATER the angle starts on the needle given the same L1. THAT'S because L1 is really NOT the length of the straight section, but the length TO a 2.515mm diameter. That's referred to as the 'magic number'.
So, if you angle steeper, you start later. Make sense?
That's one of the reasons that although the CEL is a shorter needle it's clipped lower, too.
One more thing (I'm rolling now O&S!). If you end up looking for a throttle valve (slide), give ron @ RB Designs (of RB carb mod fame) a call. I ordered a #6 (#5 stock) twice, got the wrong part twice. The whole process took weeks!
Ron had the correct one to me in a couple of days.
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
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Not a direct relationship, no.
Just something to keep in mind when you think you're changing to a 'leaner' needle (say one that has a larger straight diameter and tapers slower) only to find that your bottom end is fat and you foul plugs on long downhills (idling for awhile).
Which is what a lot of the problem was with the 'A' (1º) series needles originally fit to the RB carb.
The largest diameter needle I've tried is the CEK (with a #7TV). Hit very hard and pulled in upper 3rd gear something fierce!! In fact, TOO hard for a long day's ride. At the end of a 70 mile ride, I was pounded to a pulp.
On the coast (sand) it was fine with my kg-30. In the woods? Aarrgh! :(
Just something to keep in mind when you think you're changing to a 'leaner' needle (say one that has a larger straight diameter and tapers slower) only to find that your bottom end is fat and you foul plugs on long downhills (idling for awhile).
Which is what a lot of the problem was with the 'A' (1º) series needles originally fit to the RB carb.
The largest diameter needle I've tried is the CEK (with a #7TV). Hit very hard and pulled in upper 3rd gear something fierce!! In fact, TOO hard for a long day's ride. At the end of a 70 mile ride, I was pounded to a pulp.
On the coast (sand) it was fine with my kg-30. In the woods? Aarrgh! :(
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