Okay so here recently i posted a thread about a noise coming from my bike when i rev up. I found out since then, that it is the chain. I took the chain off, cleaned it and the sprockets too, and greased up the chain. And after that the chain still rattles, is this just some links smacking together, or does it mean that its time to tighten my chain? Need some advice. -thanks
stupid chain noise!
- Thread starter 96CRkid
- Start date
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- #3
digifox said:
Well i bought the bike from a guy who didn't ride it much like 2 weeks ago, and he said that there was a new chain and rear sprocket (im positive about the sprocket, because its bigger and is in very good condition). The chain shows absolutely no sign of wear either, i probably should have included that earlier (sorry)
x!TremeRider!x
Member
- May 22, 2006
- 73
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Tighten it... if its to the end you need a new chain. I just checked my chain... less then 10 hours of riding and I'm replacing a sprocket which was fresh and now its has all chips in it =\
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,504
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you should every time you replace the chain96CRkid said:
x!TremeRider!x
Member
- May 22, 2006
- 73
- 0
my chains half-way done.
rmc_olderthandirt
~SPONSOR~
- Apr 18, 2006
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I am not sure I understood the original description and I sure don't understand/agree with some of the recommendations.
The chain MUST have slack in it. If you tightened the chain so that it didn't make any slap or rattle noises then it would make one loud SNAP sound and that will be the end of that.
96CRKid: Can you provide a bit more description as to when this noise occurs?
If it happens when you are revving the engine in neutral then it has to be the chain vibrating against the swing arm. Don't worry about it.
If it happens when you are riding at WOT (and you can hear it above the engine noise) then I would expect it to be the chain guide (plastic part that guides the chain onto the rear sprocket), or the roller(s) (just before/after the front sprocket) or the rub strip on the swing arm. If the rollers don't roll or the guide is messed up or the rub strip is badly worn, replace them.
If its not the guides then it would have to be the chain/sprockets. Don't believe what hte seller told you, inspect the chain and sprockets. The owner's manual or after market repair manual will tell you how to inspect the fit of the chain on the sprocket and what the sprocket teeth should (or shouldn't ) look like. On the rear sprocket it is fairly easy: with the chain fully engaged if you can pull a link more than half the sprocket tooth away then the chain/sprocket are toast.
It is also possible that the sounds you are hearing are normal. Chains are somewhat noisey. When you make a sudden change from power to engine braking the chain can "slap". You might even be hearing gear noise from the transmission.
Rod
The chain MUST have slack in it. If you tightened the chain so that it didn't make any slap or rattle noises then it would make one loud SNAP sound and that will be the end of that.
96CRKid: Can you provide a bit more description as to when this noise occurs?
If it happens when you are revving the engine in neutral then it has to be the chain vibrating against the swing arm. Don't worry about it.
If it happens when you are riding at WOT (and you can hear it above the engine noise) then I would expect it to be the chain guide (plastic part that guides the chain onto the rear sprocket), or the roller(s) (just before/after the front sprocket) or the rub strip on the swing arm. If the rollers don't roll or the guide is messed up or the rub strip is badly worn, replace them.
If its not the guides then it would have to be the chain/sprockets. Don't believe what hte seller told you, inspect the chain and sprockets. The owner's manual or after market repair manual will tell you how to inspect the fit of the chain on the sprocket and what the sprocket teeth should (or shouldn't ) look like. On the rear sprocket it is fairly easy: with the chain fully engaged if you can pull a link more than half the sprocket tooth away then the chain/sprocket are toast.
It is also possible that the sounds you are hearing are normal. Chains are somewhat noisey. When you make a sudden change from power to engine braking the chain can "slap". You might even be hearing gear noise from the transmission.
Rod
#1, Do not use grease on a standard chain. Use a quality chain lube. The better, and more often you maintain the chain, the longer it will last. In sand, all bets are off! If you do not care about the engine or performance, put an o-ring chain on. #2, Define new? Took it out for how many hours? 0 hours is new. Slapping a new cheap chain on a worn front sprocket will destroy the chain in minutes. You put an AFAM sprocket and chain set on, and take care of it, it will last a LONG time! How are the swingarm glides and roller?
- Thread starter
- #12
rmc_olderthandirt said:
well ever since i lubed up the chain real good and tightend up the sprocket a lil bit, the noise is dampened. I am new to owning a bike...but i had one of my more experienced friends look at the chain and sprockets and he said that they looked like they were in good shape.
You look at the sprockets, you measure the chain. There is a pin to pin measurement, for like 7 links. Should be in the manual.
Good grief...
You know, there are specific instructions provided by each and every mfg that cover just about every mechanical issue we can think of. Very specific details as minute as how much force to use on each itty bitty little screw...
The proper care and maintenance of the drive sprockets and chain is also included in these instructions and tutorials.
There is also a wealth of information here at DRN, if one would only do a simple search.
I am amazed at the resources available to us, yet folks just can't help but fumble around with chain drives. I think the virus that infects the 'what ratio oil to use' rubs off on the chain drive maint mindset.
BTW...the proper slack for a chain to have is, between 1%-3% of the distance between the front and rear shafts, in total up and down free movement of the chain , when the swing arm is in a straight plane with the centerline of the front and rear shafts.
Also BTW...
It is almost impossible to see where your chain is as far as wear is concerned. To make the statement; "My chain looks fine" can only concern how well you keep it cleaned and lubed. The looks of the chain has very little at all to do with whether it is in serviceable condition or not.
To know what condition your chain is in, you need to measure it. That is just how it is done. You can try quickies like pulling it from the sprocket, but that is just fumbling around. Learn to measure the chain properly.
Then, know that you will start to see wear on the sprockets once the chain has reached a point of around 1.5%-2% elongated past new pitch.
If you actually have it together, you can keep an eye on this elongation of the chain, and change it out for a new one when it has reached about 1%-1.5%. This will keep a chain within mfg specs on the bike, and it will not eat out the sprockets. You can see a set of common aluminum sprockets last a phenomenally long time by using this method.
Good friends like Pred make the recommendation to change it all out as a set no matter what, as a matter of dealing with the fact that the general populous is really just fumbling around with chain issues, and not really performing proper maintenance on the drives at all. So, it makes sense to change it all out as a set, especially when we really don't care to understand or subscribe to the dynamics behind them.
Which is fine...hell, 'run em till they break and replace em' is an option. And seems a very popular one at that.
You know, there are specific instructions provided by each and every mfg that cover just about every mechanical issue we can think of. Very specific details as minute as how much force to use on each itty bitty little screw...
The proper care and maintenance of the drive sprockets and chain is also included in these instructions and tutorials.
There is also a wealth of information here at DRN, if one would only do a simple search.
I am amazed at the resources available to us, yet folks just can't help but fumble around with chain drives. I think the virus that infects the 'what ratio oil to use' rubs off on the chain drive maint mindset.
BTW...the proper slack for a chain to have is, between 1%-3% of the distance between the front and rear shafts, in total up and down free movement of the chain , when the swing arm is in a straight plane with the centerline of the front and rear shafts.
Also BTW...
It is almost impossible to see where your chain is as far as wear is concerned. To make the statement; "My chain looks fine" can only concern how well you keep it cleaned and lubed. The looks of the chain has very little at all to do with whether it is in serviceable condition or not.
To know what condition your chain is in, you need to measure it. That is just how it is done. You can try quickies like pulling it from the sprocket, but that is just fumbling around. Learn to measure the chain properly.
Then, know that you will start to see wear on the sprockets once the chain has reached a point of around 1.5%-2% elongated past new pitch.
If you actually have it together, you can keep an eye on this elongation of the chain, and change it out for a new one when it has reached about 1%-1.5%. This will keep a chain within mfg specs on the bike, and it will not eat out the sprockets. You can see a set of common aluminum sprockets last a phenomenally long time by using this method.
Good friends like Pred make the recommendation to change it all out as a set no matter what, as a matter of dealing with the fact that the general populous is really just fumbling around with chain issues, and not really performing proper maintenance on the drives at all. So, it makes sense to change it all out as a set, especially when we really don't care to understand or subscribe to the dynamics behind them.
Which is fine...hell, 'run em till they break and replace em' is an option. And seems a very popular one at that.
That was beautiful Jaybird. But do add, when that chain comes apart, they have been known to take out a engine case with it. Manual=15 to 30 dollars, engine cases, chain and sprockets= 400 dollars and up.
flyingfuzzball
Member
- May 10, 2007
- 957
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kx125412 said:
yea say wha?
That o-ring chain on a 250 will put drag on enough you should be able to feel the difference. Off bottom will not be as crisp. Its too heavy for a motocross bike. Put the type that came on it, you can not go wrong. The smaller bikes are affected a lot more. The only advantage is laziness. I do believe they require less maintenance. Primarily for enduro and what not. Used to be they were way more expensive. Most decent standard chains, will last as long as the sprockets. Everytime you get done with 20 minutes of riding, you check and maintain the chain.
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,504
- 19
Exactly, my good man. People say "my chain looks good, but my sprockets are starting to hook" so they change the sprockets out. Then we get someone on the flame board complaining about how these new sprockets he put on wore out so fast his head is spinning.Jaybird said:
peepull am dum
whenfoxforks-ruled said:
I'm on the other side of the fence on this one. I took off my stock chain before it had even been run. I bought a D.I.D X-ring and have run it for over 60 hours with one adjustment at 6 or 8 hours. Measures 10 inches between 17 pins with a max spec of 10.2. They come factory lubed and sealed so maintenance is very low. I've used silicon spray to keep the o-rings clean and help shed mud and stuff and keep everything slipping and sliding nice. Sprockets literally look new. The part about minimal power loss is true, but I suck anyway so it's really not a problem. I think the majority of people who ride for fun would be better off running a quality sealed chain. It's not that the chain will last as long as the sprockets, it's the sprockets that last as long as the chain. As Our Pal Pred said, a worn chain will chew up sprockets. I don't like to work on my bike at the track or trail, I prefer to sit on my arse and hydrate while not riding. :laugh:
Wow, 60 hours on a 250f? So the x-ring chain will out last 3 top ends? In 06, my son raced 30 some races on his 450f, plus practice and my occasional romp. 1 top end, and 2 sprocket and chain sets. On the 250f, 6 races for him and 4 for me, and practice, 2 top ends and 1 sprocket and chain set. He always preferred figuring the hours as opposed to an actual meter. At 1 hour per race, and 1 hour of practice twice a week, I put that at 90 hours on the 450f and 30 for the 250f. He has some real speed(usually top 5 in a class), and mine diminishes with age(+45b). Joe, you failed to mention the price of that fancy chain?
Yeah, the drivetrain is certainly holding up better than the engine, lol. I paid 80 some dollars for the chain, and sold the stocker for 25, so I had 55 in it. I figure it will probly double the life of the sprockets, so I'll probly come out ahead. And I'd rather not have to swap parts any more than I have to. It actually has 66.2 hours on it now. I ran the stock piston out to almost 60 hours. How did your piston skirts look? I was impressed with the crosshatch on the cylinder. Pretty simple engine design, nice to work on.
They are a piece of cake to work on, as long as someone else is paying for the parts! I think the price on the standard fancy chain is about the same. When he sold it, the crank went out. They fixed that and 2 shims fell out.$$$ Good thing Service has complete engines for 1,000 dollars, lots of them! I really need to go up there and see what Greg says about the 2010 CR250R rumor!
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