Swing arm bolt stuck on - Help - CR250 -

[The13redi]

I am trying to take my engine out on my 93 honda CR250, I can not get the swing arm bolt to come out.... I have pounded on it, hit it with my air hammer, and blasted it with PB.
Is there a special way to get the bolt off?

Help!

Thanks

 

[Blackcat]

I read about this somewhere where a guy had to take his bike to tire shop and the guy had to hit it with the heavy duty airgun. Just a thought. By the way what does PB mean.

 

[mideastrider]

If its that tight it may have never been out before. I had 1986 CR that froze up so bad I had to strip it down to just the frame and motor and lay it on its side in a hydraulic press to get it out. May be something you have to try.

 

[The13redi]

I read about this somewhere where a guy had to take his bike to tire shop and the guy had to hit it with the heavy duty airgun. Just a thought. By the way what does PB mean.

"PB" Blaster is like Wd-40 but much much better, and does not stink up and leave you lightheaded.

I still cant get the engine out, I cut the swing arm bolt and the engine will not come out unless the swing arm is out. The bolt is seized in, and will not come out either end.

Thinking about parting it out!

 

[Blackcat]

So you cut the head and the nut off the bolt, right. How about something like a jackhammer with a long pin in the tip.

 

[The13redi]

So you cut the head and the nut off the bolt, right. How about something like a jackhammer with a long pin in the tip.

No I cut the mid point of the bolt/rod trying to just get the engine out, the bolt turns but is frozen to high hell.

 

[2strks4evr]

DON'T YOU DARE PART THAT BIKE OUT!if the bolt will move at all in either direction,move it as far as u can then cut the end in which it was moving then move the bolt in the opposite direction until it stops and cut the other end,then move the bolt in the direction you moved it the first time.presto it should come out?!good luck

 

[The13redi]

DON'T YOU DARE PART THAT BIKE OUT!if the bolt will move at all in either direction,move it as far as u can then cut the end in which it was moving then move the bolt in the opposite direction until it stops and cut the other end,then move the bolt in the direction you moved it the first time.presto it should come out?!good luck

I dont want to, but The only way to get that bolt out is with a cutting torch or drill it out some way.

 

[kx125412]

Been there done that. Mine was the same way on my bike you could move the engine up and down but the bolt wouldnt budge. Tried the air hammer at the autoshop and the hydraulic press. We finally cut the bolt at both ends, got as much lube as we could down there and hammered it with the hydraulic press again for awhile and it popped out. Then we went to a local machinist and he made swing arm bushings and a new bolt for $100.

 

[bwood]

Try cutting with sawzall inbetween the motor and swingarm. There is usually a steel bushing on both sides that fits in the swingarm bearing and is sandwiched between the motor and frame. You will need a set of swingarm bearings when it is all said and done, but if it is froze that bad you probably needed them anyway. The kit should have the bushings, bearings, seals, washers and anything else you might need. Here is a link to a breakdown I found on www.pivotworks.com .
http://www.pivotworks.com/display.asp?Part=PWSAK-H12-020
BTW they call the steel bushing I am referring to a "pin"

 

[mox69]

Here's a tip I learned from the 4x4 off road people who used to work with 20 year old rusted U-bolts.


Start by heating up the bolt in question with a torch. Don't get it red hot, but get the nut nice and warm.

Now MOVE THE FLAME AWAY and spray the bolt with WD-40.


Wait a few minutes, reheat and respray.


What happens is when you head the nut up the metal expands. When you spray it with WD40 it cools down and contracts. As it contracts it "sucks" the WD 40 into the threads.

Try it, it works great for me.

 

[76GMC1500]

If you're heating, beeswax works much better than WD40 because it doesn't vaporize instantly on the thot metal.

 

[DougRoost]

Here's a tip I learned from the 4x4 off road people who used to work with 20 year old rusted U-bolts.


Start by heating up the bolt in question with a torch. Don't get it red hot, but get the nut nice and warm.

Now MOVE THE FLAME AWAY and spray the bolt with WD-40.


Wait a few minutes, reheat and respray.


What happens is when you head the nut up the metal expands. When you spray it with WD40 it cools down and contracts. As it contracts it "sucks" the WD 40 into the threads.

Try it, it works great for me.

His problem is not getting the nut off, it's getting the seized bolt out. Not sure what else to tell you that hasn't been said. In the end a good air hammer, or better yet a hydraulic press, sure as heck should get it out.

 

[Patman]

Try this. Soak it with PB, spin the crap out of it both directions with an impact, repeat, steel punch/drift or brass drift & big hammer pound on it, repeat, let sit over night, repeat, repeat, it will eventually break free.

OR.....

Drill that sucker out! I did tis one one that was paticularly stubborn. Basically got the wall of the pivot thin enough that wiggling the engine cracked it and I was able to wiggle it free.

 

[energyrail]

iam a machinists, i say let it sit with some nut cracker on it. nut cracker is this red stuff in a clear plastic bottle works like majic if give it time.

 

[jason33]

try to lay it side ways , use something that will get rid of erosion, soak it hammer it out or use a press-
battery acid to remove the corrosion -don't inhale!!! use a dropper of some kind so you don't get it all over
the pb isn't getting past the corrosion- but pb is great stuff-
after you get it out be sure to nutralize the acid with plenty of water
i bet you use a corrosive remover ,and it will fly out of there----
unless you mushroomed the end of it already- if so hammer/press it out from the other side--
good luck -let us know what happens