The joys of jetting

[r6demon]

Guys have stripped the carbs down and checked through the forum.

The bike i think was flooding badly as the 'Tang' was not fully compressing the pin in the bottom of the float needle. I bent the 'Tang' so it now compreses the pin and I will be checking the float height this weekend (when I can get my head round it!!)

However on checking the Main jet I am running a 150 and a the other jet in the float bowl area (Pilot jet??) is 48.

The needle jet I have is VERY strange though as it only has TWO notches at the top for the clip to sit and my clip is at the top of the 2.

The bike just doesnt feel as powerful as it should and flat out sounds 'crackly'

the air screw is set at 1.5 turns out.

I am running a non standard expansion pipe (dont know what it isand spark arrestor with the middle cut out with a standard airbox

Its a 90 E2 200 model.

Any ideas of the standard jet I should be running or why the previous owner set it like this.

I seem to get past one problem and straight onto the next, its driving me crazy!!!

 

[m0rie]

Does the needle have a code on it? If so post it up, enquiring minds want to know :-)

The combo of a 150 main and 48 pilot sounds really out of wack. I'd bump the main upto a 155 and the pilot down to a 45 for starters. And provided that you've got some funky needle i'd pick up a needle along the lines of a CGK.

-Maurice

 

[1911user]

I've got the same model kdx. The 150 main and 48 pilot were the stock jetting per the service manual for 90-93 (E2-E5). The 1989 (E1) had a 158 main and 48 pilot. The stock needle for the E2 was an 1172N with 5 clip slots in the top.

 

[r6demon]

I have been told 1911user theat it should be a 158 main and 48 pilot with a R1172N needle. Even my manual says this?????

Which manual and where are you finding this info?

I didnt see any markings on the needle m0rie but when I strip het down tomorrow I will double check and post.

I have ordered the 158 and tyhe standard needle, where should I put the clip?? Which notch?

 

[r6demon]

Upon removing my old needle I checked the code and it WAS an R1172N the guy previous had just snapped the top the notches off some how hence i only had 2 notches available. I have repleced the needle with a new one (HOW MUCH!!!!!! £12!!!) but the bike now cuts out when it gets hot, see my new post! :(

 

[canyncarvr]

re: 'The bike i think was flooding badly as the 'Tang' was not fully compressing the pin in the bottom of the float needle. I bent the 'Tang' so it now compreses the pin and I will be checking the float height this weekend (when I can get my head round it!!)'

I'm not sure what you bent to what extent, but the float level is set with the tang just touching the pin, NOT compressing it. At that point, the mold line on the floats will be parallel to the carb body. That's a general rule of thumb. Adjust to what your spec says...maybe one or two mm lower.

 

[JasonWho]

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[r6demon]

Guys, when i set my float level I did it with the carb standing upside down on a flat surface not tilted at an angle. Surley if I tilted it at an angle when I set the height it woulod allow more fuel through?

I just cant quite grasp this!

 

[canyncarvr]

You set the floats to spec long after the needle closed against its seat. So, yes, you effectively set the activation point lower in the bowl.

That (as I understood it anyway) was JasonWho's point re: '..maybe you are running low of fuel in the float bowl?'

The point is your float setting is incorrect. While a mm or two lower is good for anti-peeing, you're quite a bit lower than that.

 

[r6demon]

Bugger! The thing is, if the float was set anyhigher from the bowl with the carb upside down then it pee'ed out!!

 

[canyncarvr]

I didn't intend to say I know for a fact that the float setting you have is a problem.....just that it isn't set according to procedure (should 'just touch' not compress the pin).

Make sure the carb is back in the boots at the correct angle. It's not too hard to have it NOT sitting in the boot slot correctly. That makes the peeing thing worse.

A bent (common) kickstand or kickstand bracket is a good pee-maker, too.

Keep in mind that a lower fuel level will lean out the entire throttle range. Depending on how it's setup in the first place that might be a problem.

A 48 pilot doesn't 'fit' with a 150 main. ...is your bike even fitted with a PWK? Considering that to be the carb you're running too rich a pilot for that main. It's as much a matter of balance as it is anything else.

Don't assume 1.5 turns out to be correct. But...with a 48 pilot the airscrew isn't going to be too effective would be my guess.

 

[JasonWho]

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[r6demon]

OK I will be reseting the float height again tomorrow. It cant be a problem with the sidestand as i was using an MX lift stand when doing the work.

Yes I do have the PWK carb

I do have a manual but after reading the chapter 3 times it does not say HOW to set the float level just at which height it should be set(detailed in the chart at the beginning of the fuel section)

I have the Kawasaki manual (USELESS!!!) not a haynes one!

You mentioned that a 48 pilot is too rich for the 150 main but you didnt say what combination I SHOULD use. I have a 158 main at home would that be a better combo with teh 48 to get it running?? OR should I use the original jet (what ever that should be (Havent got manual with me)

Cheers for the help guys

 

[JasonWho]

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[r6demon]

wasnt carb probs but the float height was wrong. See my post a very sad day for info