I got a 96 kdx and i recently decided to put in new rear bearings to fix that rear wheel wobble. It took me for ever to remove the old ones but they finally came out, but in the process i believe i have striped the inner lip where the bearing is supposed to be seated. Thats not the problem, the problem is how do I even get them to that point? i bought a bearing driver set and bashed the hell out of it with a hammer but its still a no go. So i guess i have two questions first, if the innerlip is halfway stripped can it still be salvaged? and second how the hell do you get them rear wheel bearings in? Thanks - Rob
Them Damn Bearings
- Thread starter paul
- Start date
Normaly with other bikes I freeze them before I put them in, but on my KDX I never had any problems. In the past I have just used red grease to lube them up, then just drive them in with a deep-well socket and a dead-blow hammer. Be sure to remove the circlip before attempting to remove the old bearings, I have a friend that introduced himself into the new hub market after failing to see the circlip. Also, grease your axel and swing arm bearings after every few long rides/races, I've found that this makes bearing replacement (and overall suspension preformance) much smoother.
Rob, If you have experienced a rear wheel wobble, you may have already damaged your hub. Look for any noticeable grooves worn into the axel or hub. If there are none, freeze the bearings, grease them, then drive them in EVENLY using a socket (buy an extra circlip or four, I usualy need a new one every time I change wheel bearings).
-Nick
Rob, If you have experienced a rear wheel wobble, you may have already damaged your hub. Look for any noticeable grooves worn into the axel or hub. If there are none, freeze the bearings, grease them, then drive them in EVENLY using a socket (buy an extra circlip or four, I usualy need a new one every time I change wheel bearings).
-Nick
sunnyboy
usually i have found that a good dealer will install the new bearings for you at no charge if you bought the replacements from them-not being able to see the damage you have done you may need to take it to your dealer and have them check it out and install them for you.putting the bearings in a baggy and freezing it(thus making it smaller) and warming up your hub(thus making it larger)always works.if not you have screwd it up take it to your dealer.hey we all mess up from time to time what is important now is to get it put back together right and you will have learned somthing in prosses. :thumb:
usually i have found that a good dealer will install the new bearings for you at no charge if you bought the replacements from them-not being able to see the damage you have done you may need to take it to your dealer and have them check it out and install them for you.putting the bearings in a baggy and freezing it(thus making it smaller) and warming up your hub(thus making it larger)always works.if not you have screwd it up take it to your dealer.hey we all mess up from time to time what is important now is to get it put back together right and you will have learned somthing in prosses. :thumb:
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
For driving the bearing I would suggest a brass pin. I agree with Nick in that you should grease the axle, but I use never seize on my axles and suspension bolts. It protects the bolt and bushing a lot better. Greased axles and bolts can still freeze.
Cold bearings, warm hub. I coat the outside of the bearing with a light coat of antiseize and put them in the freezer. While they are chilling down, I heat the hub with a propane torch. Not red hot, just get it warm so the aluminum expands a bit. The bearings have always popped right in with a bearing driver after that.