Tips of the experienced
- Thread starter Big Fred
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jaguar
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the link above is way too complex and is more aimed at changing a street tire. Here's a simpler site: http://www.dansmc.com/tires1.htm although I don't agree that the use of a bead breaker is essential. I just use 2 tire irons and a long screwdriver.
jaguar
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Set the tire on its side with the sprocket touching something other than hard concrete (cardboard, old rug, etc).
Take the valve core out and remove the nut on the valve stem.
Loosen the nut on the rim lock until its on the last threads. don't remove it.
At the same time, use a tire iron and step on the side of the tire to break loose the bead from the rim. Loosen the bead all the way around.
Put each foot 120 degrees from the rim lock to keep the bead "in" so as to allow more looseness for the bead around where the rim lock is.
Insert a tire iron 3 inches from the "end" of the rim lock and pry the bead over the rim. Hold the iron in place by wedging it under the brake disc.
Now insert the other tire iron at the equal distance on the opposite side of the rim lock and pry the bead over the rim. Then put in a long screwdriver to take its place (wedging its other end under the brake disc) and remove the tire iron. Use it to pry out the bead 2 inches further out and then replace it with the screwdriver. Keep doing this till all the tire bead is pulled over the rim. At one point you may be able to pry out the remaining bead just with your hands.
Then with one hand (and someone elses hands if available) hold "out" the tire bead where the valve stem is and with the other reach in and pull out the inner tube with the valve stem.
Then pull out the remainder of the inner tube.
Insert the valve core and air the tube up to the same size it would have inside the tire. "Dunk" part by part of the tube under water until the leak location reveals itself with bubbles.
Patch the hole only with an official motorcycle patch. (another chapter; roughen up the area around the leak with the roughener or sandpaper. generously apply the glue and smear it with your finger or somethiing flat so that its thickness is relatively even. Wait till the glue is almost dry. Apply the patch and "work" the patch with finger pressure and then let it rest for 10-15 minutes under something heavy. Air the tube up an retest for leaks.)
Remove the valve core and insert the tube inside the tire and screw on the nut onto the valve stem. Make sure the tube has no areas where it's folded onto itself. If there are and you can't undo them by hand then air the tube up and then remove the valve core. That should smooth it out.
"Lube" the tire bead with soapy water or silicone (not the sealant). I prefer silicone because the water can wind up down in the middle of the rim and wind up rusting it and the spoke nipples.
Use the tire irons to pry the tire bead over and into the rim, starting on the side opposite the rim lock. After inserting much of the tire bead, you can start standing on inseerted parts of the bead to make sure it's in far enough to give relief to the opposite side and last part to pry over the rim.
The last part to pry is where the rim lock is. Make sure the rim lock is pushed "in" so that when the final tire bead is pryed into place, the bead slides down between the rim and the rim lock (not on top of the rim lock) which is where it needs to be for the rim lock to be able to clamp down on it.
Air it up to 60psi so that all the tire bead pops into correct position on the rim and then if there are stubborn areas then drop the tire onto that area to help move the bead into place. Reduce pressure to 15psi or whatever you like to keep in it.
That's how I do it. I'm a skinny guy and not too strong but I haven't had a new tire yet that I haven't been able to put on.
Take the valve core out and remove the nut on the valve stem.
Loosen the nut on the rim lock until its on the last threads. don't remove it.
At the same time, use a tire iron and step on the side of the tire to break loose the bead from the rim. Loosen the bead all the way around.
Put each foot 120 degrees from the rim lock to keep the bead "in" so as to allow more looseness for the bead around where the rim lock is.
Insert a tire iron 3 inches from the "end" of the rim lock and pry the bead over the rim. Hold the iron in place by wedging it under the brake disc.
Now insert the other tire iron at the equal distance on the opposite side of the rim lock and pry the bead over the rim. Then put in a long screwdriver to take its place (wedging its other end under the brake disc) and remove the tire iron. Use it to pry out the bead 2 inches further out and then replace it with the screwdriver. Keep doing this till all the tire bead is pulled over the rim. At one point you may be able to pry out the remaining bead just with your hands.
Then with one hand (and someone elses hands if available) hold "out" the tire bead where the valve stem is and with the other reach in and pull out the inner tube with the valve stem.
Then pull out the remainder of the inner tube.
Insert the valve core and air the tube up to the same size it would have inside the tire. "Dunk" part by part of the tube under water until the leak location reveals itself with bubbles.
Patch the hole only with an official motorcycle patch. (another chapter; roughen up the area around the leak with the roughener or sandpaper. generously apply the glue and smear it with your finger or somethiing flat so that its thickness is relatively even. Wait till the glue is almost dry. Apply the patch and "work" the patch with finger pressure and then let it rest for 10-15 minutes under something heavy. Air the tube up an retest for leaks.)
Remove the valve core and insert the tube inside the tire and screw on the nut onto the valve stem. Make sure the tube has no areas where it's folded onto itself. If there are and you can't undo them by hand then air the tube up and then remove the valve core. That should smooth it out.
"Lube" the tire bead with soapy water or silicone (not the sealant). I prefer silicone because the water can wind up down in the middle of the rim and wind up rusting it and the spoke nipples.
Use the tire irons to pry the tire bead over and into the rim, starting on the side opposite the rim lock. After inserting much of the tire bead, you can start standing on inseerted parts of the bead to make sure it's in far enough to give relief to the opposite side and last part to pry over the rim.
The last part to pry is where the rim lock is. Make sure the rim lock is pushed "in" so that when the final tire bead is pryed into place, the bead slides down between the rim and the rim lock (not on top of the rim lock) which is where it needs to be for the rim lock to be able to clamp down on it.
Air it up to 60psi so that all the tire bead pops into correct position on the rim and then if there are stubborn areas then drop the tire onto that area to help move the bead into place. Reduce pressure to 15psi or whatever you like to keep in it.
That's how I do it. I'm a skinny guy and not too strong but I haven't had a new tire yet that I haven't been able to put on.
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
Great tutorial!
I space the entire wheel off the floor using 2x4s and such. I don't want any part of the wheel/hub touching the floor or being levered against.
The use of soapy water (sprayed on the bead after the bead-to-rim seal is broken) will help you get it off. Makes it more difficult if you get it all over your tire irons, though. Don't do that. ;)
I use a bit of old tube against the rim to keep it from getting goobered. Well, usually.
Looking for the leak in the tube is a bit easier with some soap in the water, or you can use the same sprayer that has the soap in it you used (and will use when you put it back on) to help you get the bead off.
I have better luck putting the tube in if it has some air in it. Helps eliminate folds.
I've always started at the rim lock (well, either side of it) on re-install. Very important to push in on the rim lock as jaguar sez before putting the bead back over the rim wherever you start from.
'Correct position': There is a molded line around the tire that should be equidistant from the rim if the tire is seated correctly. On some tires you can barely see this line past the rim, on others it may be away from the rim a good bit (1/4"-6mm or so).
Using three tire irons makes the job a lot easier than using two (I don't use any screwdrivers).
Whether taking it off or putting it on, my biggest (and, alas, oft repeated) problem I have comes from trying to take too big a bite at a time!! After you do it once, you'll find there is a 'sweet spot' where insertion of the tire iron and leverage of the bead over the rim is quite easy. Just a bit on either side of that spot, and you'll be cussing and swearing up a storm. Trying to 'save time' by moving the irons too far just ends up wasting time.
After seating pressure has been applied, I release it all before airing it back up to desired pressure. That should help straighten out any kinks/folds in the tube, too.
As often as it needs to be done, I just can't see paying anyone to do it. Let alone hauling it into and back from wherever it goes. A waste of time and money. Buy a few tire irons and jump on in!!
Make sure on the removal AND install that the irons are up against the rim...NOT the tube. Nicking a tube isn't too hard. Not at all hard to avoid, either.
Let us know how much fun you had!!
***edit***
After reading thru the link irish posted (there are some good laughs in there), it occurs to me to state the obvious...some dirtbike tires are directional. Make sure you put it on right. If it's NOT a directional tire and you take it off for whatever reason, turn it around when you put it back on. That'll get you (maybe) a bit more 'square' on your knobs! Might not help braking a whole lot! ;) Who needs steenking brakes? (uh....I do!!)
I space the entire wheel off the floor using 2x4s and such. I don't want any part of the wheel/hub touching the floor or being levered against.
The use of soapy water (sprayed on the bead after the bead-to-rim seal is broken) will help you get it off. Makes it more difficult if you get it all over your tire irons, though. Don't do that. ;)
I use a bit of old tube against the rim to keep it from getting goobered. Well, usually.
Looking for the leak in the tube is a bit easier with some soap in the water, or you can use the same sprayer that has the soap in it you used (and will use when you put it back on) to help you get the bead off.
I have better luck putting the tube in if it has some air in it. Helps eliminate folds.
I've always started at the rim lock (well, either side of it) on re-install. Very important to push in on the rim lock as jaguar sez before putting the bead back over the rim wherever you start from.
'Correct position': There is a molded line around the tire that should be equidistant from the rim if the tire is seated correctly. On some tires you can barely see this line past the rim, on others it may be away from the rim a good bit (1/4"-6mm or so).
Using three tire irons makes the job a lot easier than using two (I don't use any screwdrivers).
Whether taking it off or putting it on, my biggest (and, alas, oft repeated) problem I have comes from trying to take too big a bite at a time!! After you do it once, you'll find there is a 'sweet spot' where insertion of the tire iron and leverage of the bead over the rim is quite easy. Just a bit on either side of that spot, and you'll be cussing and swearing up a storm. Trying to 'save time' by moving the irons too far just ends up wasting time.
After seating pressure has been applied, I release it all before airing it back up to desired pressure. That should help straighten out any kinks/folds in the tube, too.
As often as it needs to be done, I just can't see paying anyone to do it. Let alone hauling it into and back from wherever it goes. A waste of time and money. Buy a few tire irons and jump on in!!
Make sure on the removal AND install that the irons are up against the rim...NOT the tube. Nicking a tube isn't too hard. Not at all hard to avoid, either.
Let us know how much fun you had!!
***edit***
After reading thru the link irish posted (there are some good laughs in there), it occurs to me to state the obvious...some dirtbike tires are directional. Make sure you put it on right. If it's NOT a directional tire and you take it off for whatever reason, turn it around when you put it back on. That'll get you (maybe) a bit more 'square' on your knobs! Might not help braking a whole lot! ;) Who needs steenking brakes? (uh....I do!!)
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I pretty much use Canyncarvr's method. I find it easy to work on the wheel by placing it onto the open end of a 5 gal bucket. It is at perfect height for me while sitting on my garage gaddy. The other thing that I do is place the new tube (with just enough air to make the tube round) inside of an old tube for a little more protection. Just cut all the way around the inside seam of an old tube, then cut around the valve stem. Sprinkle in a bit of baby powder and place the new tube inside. Complete the install and air up. Now you have a double layered tube.
Lew
Lew
Tom Ludolff
Member
- Oct 3, 2002
- 250
- 0
Hey!!! I like the double tube idea!!! That reminds me.....Doesn't someone make foam ring tube replacements that can never go flat???
jaguar
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Tire inserts are not the way to go. They leave the tire with a mushy feeling and can actually melt on long hot rides.
My new web page with this tire changing tutorial with additional comments by canyon-carver and Lew is at http://www.geocities.com/a57ngel/moto/change-tire.html
My new web page with this tire changing tutorial with additional comments by canyon-carver and Lew is at http://www.geocities.com/a57ngel/moto/change-tire.html
Simon Fuller
Member
- May 17, 2001
- 42
- 0
I always pour in a good helping of baby powder into the tyre before refitting. Most punctures are actually caused by pinching rather than something going through the tyre and the tube. Baby powder (talcum powder iwill do if you run out of babies) helps as a lubricatant between the tube and the tyre.
Nevada Sixx
Member
- Jan 14, 2000
- 1,033
- 0
id have 3 tire tools ready, and a hammer to knock one around the rim. rim strip is kinda tricky,,make sure rubber is on nice and round.
You can get tire lube or you could use silicone spray to help get the tire on the rim easy. Been using that method for years on tractor tire to four wheeler tires.
Get yourself some tire irons, dont use the hand screw driver. I will guarnatee you will poke a hole in the tube taking it off or putting it on.
Get yourself some tire irons, dont use the hand screw driver. I will guarnatee you will poke a hole in the tube taking it off or putting it on.
