Tool to remove front axe on 01 YZ125?? Anyone??

hellbertos

Member

Feb 17, 2004

128

0

• Jan 25, 2007

• #1

I'm hoping one of you guys w/ a 98 - 02 YZ can give me the quick tip. I need to change my front tire but I dont have the required tool to pull the axle.

The Clymer manul suggest assembling a deep well, spark plug-type socket on to a extenter instered backwards into it then fitting the 6-sided top section of the socket into the end of the axle and threading it out.

The problem is my spark plug sockets (13/16 and 5/8) don't fit into the end of the axle. I thought, no problem, I'll just go get a metric sized socket (5/8 was just a hair to big it seemed).

Problem, can't find any sockets, other than 13/16 and 5/8, w/ a 6-sided top section to fit in there.

Can anyone share the secret of the mystery tool. Muc thanks in advance!!h

 

S

suthernoutlaw

Member

Jan 14, 2006

9

0

• Jan 25, 2007

• #2

i just changed my bearings in my 01 yz 250. i didnt have any special tool? after i took the nut off the end, and loosened the bolts on the lower forks, i put the bolt back on a few threads, tapped it till it was moving, then i used a long punch to tap till i could twist it out...... maybe that will help

 

hellbertos

Member

Feb 17, 2004

128

0

• Jan 25, 2007

• Thread starter
• #3

Thanks Outlaw... that was my initial though, but the Vlymer manual indicated the axle needed to be threaded out and I didn't want to start tapping on it and messing up the threads. If it is not threaded I don't know why they imply it would be... other than discouraging guys from pounding too hard there where a miss could damage brakes and forks sliders.

Thanks for the heads up.

I was looking at a tool which supposedly works to pull these type axles (apparently popular on japanese street bikes):

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/t-6_crmo_hex_axle_tool/

Anyone have any knowledge of these adapters??

 

M

magneto

Member

Nov 14, 2001

179

0

• Jan 25, 2007

• #4

Can you use a short hex head bolt whose head will fit in the axle and then weld a nut on the threaded end of the bolt to put a wrench on?

Home depot or your local hardware store may have the correct size bolt and nut (You may be able to use an SAE bolt if the size is close enough)

 

hellbertos

Member

Feb 17, 2004

128

0

• Jan 25, 2007

• Thread starter
• #5

That is a GREAT idea actually. Unfortunately, I don't have a welder and only have limited welding experience anyways. Good excuse to get off my butt and start learning.

Thanks for the input though...

 

M

magneto

Member

Nov 14, 2001

179

0

• Jan 25, 2007

• #6

Use two nuts and lock them against each other instead of welding. You can also distort the threads on the bolt slightly to help keep the nuts from moving.

(I'm cheap...)

 

hellbertos

Member

Feb 17, 2004

128

0

• Jan 25, 2007

• Thread starter
• #7

Dang... 'nuther fantastic idea! That one I can afford too!! Even though Outlaw had no troubles tapping his acle out, I am leary of going that route my first go. The last thing I want is to have to order a new axle!!

I think I will look into that one at lunch hour today. Thanks for the input!!

 

BSWIFT

Sponsoring Member

N. Texas SP

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Nov 25, 1999

7,926

43

• Jan 25, 2007

• #8

Buy yourself a "dead blow" hammer, then,

after i took the nut off the end, and loosened the bolts on the lower forks, i put the bolt back on a few threads, tapped it till it was moving, then i used a long punch to tap till i could twist it out.

Click to expand...

The purpose of the female hex head is to allow you to tighten the axle nut before you tighten the pinch bolts. Then, you compress the front suspension several times and rotate the wheel and stop it with the front brake. This helps to make the bottom of the forks to be spaced the same as they are at the triple clamp reducing drag on the suspension. When this is done, tighten the pinch bolts.
An alternate method to installing and aligning the front wheel is to install the axle, tighten the pinch bolt on the side away from the nut. Tighten the nut and then loosen the pinch bolts and compress the forks, yada, yada.
The dead blow hammer comes in handy for many things and it won't bounce back and hit you in the forehead!
My explanation may be as clear as mud, I know how and why to do it but I can't 'splain it well.;)

 

Z

zewcrew

Member

Dec 5, 2006

28

0

• Jan 26, 2007

• #9

I had a similar issue, and used two punches (the hexagonal handle ends). They wedged in there nicely and then I locked them together and gave them a handle with some straight jaw vice grips. This worked quite well for me. Also try to make sure your tire is supported and your fork end tubes don't twist. The twisting causes a lot of extra friction and therefore a lot more work. If you can have someone hold them in line and make sure the tire is supported too and not lifting or pulling on the axle it should come out easier.
Hope this helps.

 

hellbertos

Member

Feb 17, 2004

128

0

• Jan 26, 2007

• Thread starter
• #10

Thanks for the additional input guys. That makes much more sense now. I actually found an on-line microfische that showed the axle as being smooth (as opposed to threaded0 so i felt more comfortable tapping it out last night and getting that new rubber on it.

Still, great knowledge on why it is there and how it should by used. I plan to pop it on this weekend so I am looking forward to doing it properly.

 

S

Solid State

Member

Mar 9, 2001

492

0

• Jan 26, 2007

• #11

What BSWIFT said is dead on. Use the pinch bolts to hold the axle in place for tightening and loosening the axle nut. Use the axle nut with a dead blow (I use rubber hammer and a wood dowel) to push out the axle. Last time I greased the front bearings (yes they can be greased if you know how) the axle pushed out with very little pressure.

Good luck.