top end question
- Thread starter blarf
- Start date
Don't forget Antifreeze, since you have to drain the coolant prior to the rebuild.
As far as OEM, I found it was about a fifty fifty decision. I bought the Wiseco kit. No A or B to mess with, not sure if that is good or bad. What turned me off about the OEM parts was finding there were two piston rings listed, and no one could tell me if one was for the A and the other for the B cylinder.
I haven't done my top end yet. The bike has 120 PSI compression and starts and runs great still. I will before too long though.
As previously mentioned, I to think replacing the reeds is a good idea. In my case, the 99 CR125 has not been in to yet so I figure the reeds need changed as well.
As far as OEM, I found it was about a fifty fifty decision. I bought the Wiseco kit. No A or B to mess with, not sure if that is good or bad. What turned me off about the OEM parts was finding there were two piston rings listed, and no one could tell me if one was for the A and the other for the B cylinder.
I haven't done my top end yet. The bike has 120 PSI compression and starts and runs great still. I will before too long though.
As previously mentioned, I to think replacing the reeds is a good idea. In my case, the 99 CR125 has not been in to yet so I figure the reeds need changed as well.
xLastShotx
Member
- Aug 9, 2005
- 34
- 0
I just rebuilt the top end of my 2001 rm125 last week. I got the wisco piston kit.. All the bike shops told me to go OEM but It was a bit more money so I went Wisco. Everything seems to work great so far.. The only thing that I really don't like is the rubber gaskets that it came with they just don't fit like the original ones do.
Good call on the Coolant, since you have to remove the radiators and drain the water jackets from the cylinder.
I'm no expert on pistons, but I've had really good luck with Pro-X pistons. I think any of the modern day pistons are going to work well, and for us weekend warrior and occasional racers we'll never know the difference. I have two bikes and only trail ride so I replace my top ends every 1.5 years. Thus I've never had to push the durability limit of my top ends. I've used OEM, Wiseco & Pro-X pistons with success.
I'm no expert on pistons, but I've had really good luck with Pro-X pistons. I think any of the modern day pistons are going to work well, and for us weekend warrior and occasional racers we'll never know the difference. I have two bikes and only trail ride so I replace my top ends every 1.5 years. Thus I've never had to push the durability limit of my top ends. I've used OEM, Wiseco & Pro-X pistons with success.
- Jul 16, 2004
- 1,207
- 0
OEm is just another way to get more money out of ya. Just go on the famous auction site, type in cr250 piston and see what you come up with. I normally get a whole top end, including gaskets and all for around a $100, normally less
For coolant, I just use what the dealer has forsale, which is the Honda coolant, already diluted. It is less than 4 bucks a quart. my 125 takes less than a quart, your 250 probably takes a little over a quart.
This is straight from the service manual;
Recommended Antifreeze: Pro Honda Coolant or an equivalent high quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing corrosion protection inhibitors.
This is straight from the service manual;
Recommended Antifreeze: Pro Honda Coolant or an equivalent high quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing corrosion protection inhibitors.
In support of OEM pistons
You get a piston that was made for your exact application...not several different engines.
With pistons, you actually do get what you pay for.
Maybe OEM is a higher price tag, but it's made just for your engine by the original equipment mfg. You can't do better than that, IMHO.
You get a piston that was made for your exact application...not several different engines.
With pistons, you actually do get what you pay for.
Maybe OEM is a higher price tag, but it's made just for your engine by the original equipment mfg. You can't do better than that, IMHO.
xLastShotx
Member
- Aug 9, 2005
- 34
- 0
For coolant I say go for a coolant called Engine Ice, Its a bit pricey but it defiantly works better than just standard coolant, I run it in all my quads and dirt bikes now, just make sure you flush all your old coolant out real good.
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/pro...emicals&webCatId=23&webTypeId=41&navType=type
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/pro...emicals&webCatId=23&webTypeId=41&navType=type
darringer
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Dec 2, 2001
- 1,029
- 0
Dump the OEM piston and run the Wiseco Pro-lite. The Wiseco piston runs quieter, is stronger, and lasts at least as long as the stocker. I ran that piston in my 99cr250 for years with zero problems. The cost is alot cheaper, too. Motosport Outlet has the COMPLETE top end kit, which has everything needed for the job for $120 with free shipping. Pro series reeds are also a good choice for the '99. I have used the 50/50 premixed Peak Coolant from auto parts stores for years and years and works great. None of my 2 strokes ever had an overheating issue with regular antifreeze. Even on long, windy single track where the bike is at idle or just above. I just put in fresh stuff once a year.
- Thread starter
- #16
hey darringer, thanx for the help. i was looking at those wiseco pro-lite but i wasn't sure. i'm really new to all that stuff. i guess i'll order the wiseco and with the help of my shop manual, i'll redo my top-end. any advice or tips on what i should be careful about or pay extra attention to?
i already know that i need to drain the coolant first before doing the top-end.
i already know that i need to drain the coolant first before doing the top-end.
darringer
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Dec 2, 2001
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Pay careful attention to the powervalve rods. There are 2. One is in the cylinder. The other is inside the large clutch cover (above the water pump housing). When you re-install the cylinder, make sure the 2 rods are aligned correctly. Drop the cylinder down until it is about 1/2" above the cases and look into the gap between the case and cylinder to make sure it's aligned. The shop manual does a pretty good job of explaining the procedure. Good luck! Let us know how it goes, and feel free to ask any other questions. There is ALOT of knowledge lurking around the site.
- Thread starter
- #18
apparently i got this in the bike: V-force reed block with carbon fiber reeds. how do i check to see if the reeds are still good to go?
by the way, i just ordered that complete top end kit from motorsport outlet for like $129 with free 2nd day shipping
by the way, i just ordered that complete top end kit from motorsport outlet for like $129 with free 2nd day shipping
darringer
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Dec 2, 2001
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I've never had much success determining the condition of a 2 stroke top end with a compression gauge. It can be misleading. Example: When I had my 99cr250, it would regularly pull 210-220psi compression. but after 1-1/2 years of use I tore down the top end and it was out of spec. It's better to pull the top end and mic the cylinder, piston, and the ring end gap to get a clearer picture of what's worn.
Hey dezryder, have you had issues with Wiseco?
I have been using them for a variety of bikes over many years with zero problems. Sometimes there are better alternatives than OEM.
Hey dezryder, have you had issues with Wiseco?
I have been using them for a variety of bikes over many years with zero problems. Sometimes there are better alternatives than OEM.
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