transmission squeek?

[jaguar]

hi Canyon.
you wrote> "It's to hold the bladder that holds the nitrogen that pressurizes the oil in the shock (that jack built?) largely to prevent cavitation. "
Are you referring to the fact that the Penton brothers helped design the first KDX's? My first bike was a Penton and since I'm on a KDX now I'd like to know all I can about the Penton/KDX connection. tell me more...

Hey, I'm preparing to split the cases and replace all the bearings and the crank seals. Now I'm getting a harmonic balancer puller for only $14 from http://www.yennies.com/46pc_harmonic_balancer_puller.html and I also need some circlip pliers. I'll probably have a machinist make something to stick in the middle of the crank. Anything special else you think I may need?
My bike has been making an odd squeeking sound and so I pulled off the clutch cover and moved the clutch by hand to test for play and lo and behold there was a lot of play. I pulled the clutch off and verified that both bearings on that shaft are shot (even though they're just two years old). But I still don't understand how they are making a squeeking sound unless the one on the other side is frozen and slipping in the race. Anyone else had a squeeky transmission?

 

[Barkeater420]

I have what sounds like a squeak evey now and then when i am really giving the cliutch hell. It all looked just fine when I pulled it apart last summer....and the action is just fine.

 

[canyncarvr]

barkeater: The squeak you're referring to is what you get when you are, 'giving the cliutch hell.'

jag:
No reference to penton was intended.

I wouldn't attempt anything in the way of crank splitting, rod bearing replacement or truing. The whole idea of pounding on a crank with a hammer (of whatever makeup) to 'straighten' it up is not something I want to attempt.

You're way past my experience or book knowledge of the issue. Certainly there are a number of 'special tools' that kawi lists as 'required' for crank maintenance. I don't know which of them are really necessary.

Good luck!!

 

[jaguar]

Well, I'm going to give it a shot and if I fail then I'll take it to a mechanic. It's just that all the mechanics are worst than I am except for one and he wants to charge $100 labor.

 

[canyncarvr]

Given a choice of:

1. A crank that spins with a whisper after install,

or,

2. A crank that needs a wrench to turn it after install...

I'll spend $100 for #1!! ;)

Good luck!

 

[xpwarrior]

You definitely need a puller of some kind because the crank bearings are a press fit on the crank and in the case. Once it's pulled apart all the transmission parts will either slide off or are held together with clips. When putting it back together you definitely need a metal spacer to put between the crank weights opposite the pin so you don't tweak the crank out of shape. You also need a press to put the case back together. If the crank bearing stays on the crank you need to pull it off and press it into the case half before pressing the halves back together. Make sure to get all the tools you need and lay all the parts out in order and you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[jdbrusch]

Trying to find a shop that had the "special" tool for keeping the crank halves true was impossible here,most said they had never heard of it or never used one before,you can install the crank without it,have your friend check the trueness of the crank and be gentle with it when installing it,this is not the place to use hammers.Or just have him machine a bar that fits snug into the crank halves.
Follow the sequince for installing the bearings in the manual but when installing the crank into one of the case halves place a .010"-.015" feeler gauge between the bearing and the crank,this will place the crank into position with almost the correct side clearance,failing to do this will most likely cause slight binding when the other case is installed and you will have a hard time centering the crank afterwords.
I have had good luck with removing bearings with a heat gun just make sure you heat the case or the bearing(depending on location) evenly and they will come out easy,if they don't come out with that I go all out and press them with the 20 ton press at work.Or you can go the oven and freezer method but once the cases start heating up the leftover oil sometimes starts to smoke,not a good smell in the kitchen.
With the puller kit you listed make sure they have metric bolts and they are of good quality, cheap ones will sometimes stretch or even bend if made of weak material.You can replace weak bolts with socket head cap screws and just place washers under the heads.:thumb:

 

[jaguar]

thanks for the tips!!!

 

[canyncarvr]

From: A technical article on EG's site (emphasis mine):

http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/2techcrankrepair.htm

The Right Special Tools

To rebuild a crankshaft, you need special tools. The two most important and expensive tools are a 30-ton hydraulic press (about $500) and a truing jig (about $750). It is possible to use a lathe as a truing jig but only when the crank is set between two live centers. You cannot clamp one side of the crank in the chuck and one end in the center and expect to get an accurate deflection measurement; the deflection of the crank is redirected, and the crank reads true when it is far out of true. Other tools needed are a small square, a scribe, a dial indicator and stand, a brass hammer, a steel wedge such as a chisel, and a variety of rectangular steel blocks and pins so you can secure the crank in the press during assembly. Mud Creek Engineering in Michigan (517) 676-9534 makes a great tool ($800) that allows you to assemble the crankshaft in perfect alignment; no additional truing is needed. The tool uses bushings to align the crank journals as the crank is pressed together...

and...

If the crank has side run-out, then the flyweights aren't parallel and must be adjusted before the crank ends can be trued. This is accomplished by hitting the wide side of the flyweights with a large brass hammer...


and...

The crank ends have run-out because the flyweights aren't parallel and must be rotated about the crank pin. This is accomplished by striking the flyweight at the exact point of the greatest run-out, with a brass hammer...


So, no...maybe you don't install a crank with a hammer, but you sure use 'em in the process of rebuilding one.

 

[jdbrusch]

Jaguar are you trying to rebuild the entire crank (rod and crank pin),have a shop do that,not a job for the backyard mechanic, or are you just interested in the main crank bearings and seals? :confused: .Your machinist friend will be able to check the crank for trueness either by mounting it in a lathe as CC suggested or he can use a set of V-blocks on a surface plate,either one with a set of dial indicators works well,using the lathe method you have to make sure the ends of the crank are in good condition ,the centerdrilled holes are sometimes deformed(from pullers) and you will not get a accurate reading.If it is out of spec the manual has a good explanation on truing or use CC description on how to bring it within spec,again you may want a shop to do this .Measure the wear on the rod(axle and radial) and if it is within spec just replace the main bearings and seals.

 

[jaguar]

I'm just replacing bearings and seals main end and in the transmission.
I'm hoping using the hot/cold method will get me through the tough spots.
I'll check the trueness of the crank in the bike before I take it apart.
:-)