Does Poison Spider, Top of the World, Kokopelli, Gold Bar, Chicken Corners mean anything to you? How about Kane Creek, Castle Valley, or Potash Roads? Maybe you have heard of White Rim or Dead Horse Point? For sure you have heard of Arches National Park and or the Colorado/Green River. Yes, thats right, Mr. Tony Eeds and myself made yet another trip to that action wonderland known as M-O-A-B Utah.
Planning for this trip started soon after our coming home from last years excursion. We started with a whole bunch of people who wanted to go, but when it came to it, there was just the two of us that loaded up. I loaded up my offroad equipped CR250 (big gas tank ect) and my dual sport xt600. Tony loaded his trusty ktm200 and his new toy, an xr650r with license plate. We started at 7am on a Wed morning and after 1000miles we arrived 11:00ish that night. I had made reservations at the CanyonLands campground. We found our cabin and quickly unloaded and tried our best to sleep.
Thursday morning found us a little bit winded after our 1000 mile march. Read that as we slept in a bit. We got moving at 10:30ish and I thought a dual sport ride would be just the thing to get things started. We headed out on the very scenic hwy128 and headed up the river to Castle Valley. This route was to take us into the La Sal Mountains south of Moab. Before we started climbing, we took some spur trails just for fun. Soon we hit the climbing and wound our way up a nice twisty bit of asphalt that goes up and over the mountain. At the top, we took a dirt trail that winds up being part of the Kokopelli Trail which is one of the holy grails to those who mountain bike. we rode this at a good pace and were feeling great. Eventually, we come to an intersection and we take the forest service road back to pavement and down the rest of the mountain. By the time we roll into town, we have chalked up 89 miles. We hit the showers and considered food as we havent had a thing all day. I chose Zacks. This place serves awesome pizza and a pretty decent salad bar too. We did our best to eat $10 of the all-u-can-eat pizza before showing ourselves out the door. Its 6:00ish and I am still itching to ride so I suggest a quick ride out to Hurrah Pass and finish up with Chicken Corners before dark. We accomplish both of these trails and after viewing the vistas, we ride back into Moab with another 52 miles on the bikes. If you go and do Chicken Corners, be sure to follow out the trail to Pack Off point. There is a rim trail that is an honest 18 inches wide with rock overhead and a 1200ft drop on your right. We get home and drink to our good fortune.
Friday finds us at the Poison Spider trail head. this time we decide to ride the 2strokers. We bomb up the trail that is more technical than what we rode the day before. The miles on this type of trail come at a much slower pace. We find our way to the top of Poison Spider Mesa and ride some really cool slickrock. The trail connects with the Portal trail and we wind our way to the rim. Of course, the view is spectacular, and can not really be described with words. We meet a bunch of MTBers from Canada and do our best to get along with the pedal people. We all enjoy the view for quite awhile. The rim looks down on the Colorado river and the town of Moab. We noted a group of kayakers coming down the river at a good clip. The river is hauling due to the quick snowmelt in Colorado and for once, there was lots of snow in the Rockies. We then push on down the trail onto the Golden Spike trail and wind our way north. After coming to a point we recognized from last year, we decide to loop back to the Poison Spider and head to the truck. On the way back, we climb some pretty steep hill climbs made entirely of slickrock. It was as they say, epic. While we were blitzing the mesa, we came upon the famous "cross" where Alice was supposedly buried after being bitten by a you guessed it......a poison spider. Quick picture and we were on our way down to the truck. All said and done, we racked up 25 miles. Food was later found at the Moab Brewery and it was in the form of a pretty darn good burrito for me. We still had daylight, so I suggested heading up Potash Rd to view some pictographs that the area is famous for. Right there in plain sight were the symbols pecked in the rock 700+ years ago. The cabin is waiting for us and of course there was cold beer for us to finish the day off with.
After consulting the maps on Friday night, I plot Sat. ride through the Shaffer Trail/White Rim/Island in the Sky/Long Canyon. This was a longer dual sport ride and required carrying some extra fuel on Tony's part. His Big Red Thumper drinks Big Amounts of Gasoline. We figured mileage to be in the mid 40s while my xt was getting 75+. Anyway, we head out of town on the road known as Potash Road. It is a great road that winds down the river northwest of town. Soon the pavement turns to dirt. Next is the potash plant which the road is named after. There are some huge evaporation pools which are dyed the prettiest blue. The color is blue to encourage the evaporation. Past the plant goes the road. Soon we are looking over the edge once again all goggle-eyed at the drop to the river below. We pull over again and find ourselves at Dead Horse Point. You have seen this picture even if you dont recognize the name. Later, we cross the National Park boundry into the Island in the Sky District. Six miles later, we are at an intersection with the world famous White Rim Trail. We take a left and make our way down the trail to Mussleman Arch. This trail is pretty busy with a mix of jeeps/bicycles/motorcycles. The trail is 110 miles in length and basically runs the rim on a ledge half way down the canyon wall. Pictures of Mussleman Arch go into the camera and we head back onto the trail. To finish off the Shaffer Trail, you head into a box canyon. Even from 1 mile from the end you swear there is no way out......untill you see the switchbacks. Steep and stacked on one another is the best way to describe them. Up we go. On top, we look back on our climb and marvel at the scenery. We take a short break at what is probably the smallest visitor center in the NPS. They do have a good video and cold water though. Back on the bikes, we head out of the park and across the mesa. A quick right at Dead Horse State Park finds us headed off to Long Canyon road. This time the switchbacks are downhill all the while we admire Moab valley and the Behind the Rocks areas. Into town we go, and off to find some food. This time it is Eddie McStiffs and like the others, its pretty tasty. After dinner finds us shopping for family in hopes that our kitchen passes will be stamped with approval at a later time.
We are checking trails off the map now but we have heard Top of the World is one not to be missed. That becomes our plan for Saturday. The trailhead is 40 miles upriver which is not a bad thing as the road winds along the mighty Colorado which by this point is so full that commercial outfitters are not taking any trips due to the high water. Turning right at Dewey bridge finds us on Entrada Bluffs Road. Two strokes warmed up and ready, camelbacks full, camera full of digital film, tools on the ready....I think we are a go. We find the Top of the World trail and it heads pretty much straight up. A 3000ft gain in a little over 3 miles. Up and up and up and wait there is sky. We park the bikes and walk the last 20ft. WOW Holy Crap! Thats Just Stupid! Insane! Yes, those are meant to be adjectives. You could see up into Fisher Valley, the Colorado basin, Arches National Park, Onion Creek, Henry Mountains, Moab Valley, Klondike Bluffs, La Sal Mountains and on and on and on. And the rim drop we are standing on is at least 2000ft. The breeze at 7030ft feels good so we decide to stay awhile. Soon, a jeep with a couple from Colorado appears. Later some lunatics on pedal bikes make it to the top with hearts beating at least 250bpm. They suffer for their art for sure. We watch crows floating the ridge on air currents and i just imagine what it would be like to paraglide off the edge. Talk about repelling the cliff comes about but where are you gonna get a rope 1/2 mile long. I decide i could only do it in the dark while Tony talks about going face down. Back to the birds. I am deciding if it would be worth it to give up my hands and arms in trade for a pair of wings, when all of the sudden i see this different bird come into the picture above the crows. Hey, that looks like a .............as he tucks his wings and accelerates to mach 1 in full attack mode free dive. I couldnt see the result of the attack because the steepness of the cliff. That is the first time ive actually seen a falcon in person. Hawks/eagles all of the time but a first for a falcon. We head off down the trail and soon caught up with the MTB crew while they were taking a break. We are just plunkin along and the MTB guys actually pass us. These guys are serious. I jump in behind the lead guy and follow at a safe distance. It would be safe to say they averaged 22+mph going down a very rock infested trail. Very impressive considering consequences for a get off. At the bottom, they go left and we turn right. I wanted to get back on the Kokopelli Trail and use it as a connector to the Green River Overlook. As expected, the Kokopelli is a great ride. We wind our way 30 miles out to the overlook before turning back to the truck. Once at the truck, we head over to the historical Dewey Bridge and walk out on it and admire the chocolate river running hard under us. Its bizarre standing on a bridge where if it werent for the 55 degree water running under us, it would be 110 degrees. Back to town and a well deserved shower and food. Pasta Jay is the place tonight and it was tasty.
Last day to ride is here and we had agreed in advance to make it Kane Creek. It was last years final ride and would be destined to become tradition. This time we chose to ride the length of the canyon from the bottom to the top. It is the CR and KTM out on the trail. What makes this trail so cool is the water which is so opposing to the landscape we have been riding. There are numerous water crossings and creekbed traverses. One of the pitfalls for leading is uh finding pitfalls. On the second water crossing i see the trail continue on the other side and dive in. Before i know it the water is up to the top of my boots. I kill the motor and wrangle the bike back onto higher ground. I dump some fuel and check the air filter for water. Take out plug and pump for water. It all looks good and she fires right up. We find an alternate and continue on. From now on, Im a little more cautious before entering the water. There are actual trees on this trail. Massive cottonwoods and little cottonwoods. Large stretches of sand appear now and then too. Nine miles up we get to the part of the canyon that heads up. Last year we had trouble at this one spot and it kind of stuck in my craw that i didnt clear it riding. You know, bikes are easier to deal with when they move under their own power. After looking over the object of my disaffection, I recall why this stretch was difficult. I tried it anyway and made a better attempt at it and was able to singlehand the bike over it even if i didnt ride over it. We head back the last nine miles of this years trip and all i could keep saying to myself was DONT FALL DONT FALL DONT FALL. Just like all of the other rides, nobody fell, and other than sore bodies from 6 days riding, we came out like champs. Sixth day same story....we get to town....shower...and find food...this time mexican. But there was a difference with this meal that would haunt me later. After dinner, we hit all of the very cool and very well known bike shops in town. Tony bought a cool bike jersey that i really wanted but need to save some more pennies. I did get a killer Poison Spider Bicycle Shop cap. Look me up at DirtWeek, Ill probably still be wearing it. We get back to the cabin and finish the last two brews in the cooler. Packing is done and we agree on an early am start (3am) for home. Its 10:00 and I should be tired. Every other night at this time I am content to look at the back of my eyelids. Rewind back to the mexican food diner. I had been drinking water for dinner every night until tonight. I freakin ordered tea and it was very strong. All nine glasses very large glassfulls. And you thought it was something else haunting me. As I lay there watching the hours go by, I start panicking. It is a 17hour drive home and I would have to do my share. I reassure myself, hey, Tony is sleeping and I could drive early before the tea buzz wore off. The alarm goes off and Tony gets up. I kinda laugh and tell him about my bad news about my zero sleep. He says he has an even funnier story, he didnt sleep a wink either. We cranked up the truck and slipped out of the campground. Soon, Moab was in our rearview mirror and Texas was on our minds. After a very cool picture at Shiprock NM, a little used backroad mountain NWof Alberqurque, a little cafe in Tucumcari, and lots of good conversation to go with the miles, we arrive home safe and sound.
Final thoughts on the trip includes the people who wanted to go but couldnt, great companion to ride with and the planning for next year. I am truly sorry John, Jeff and Kristin for you having to read about this trip......next time for sure. Tony, thanks for the memories and adventure. I saw a shirt in town that said:
MONDAY
TUESDAY
WEDNSDAY
THURSDAY
FRIDAY
SATURDAY
SUNDAY
SEE........THERE IS NO SOMEDAY
Even if it isnt Moab, please act on your DREAM RIDES! Hell, give me and Tony a call and we will do our best to join you.
Planning for this trip started soon after our coming home from last years excursion. We started with a whole bunch of people who wanted to go, but when it came to it, there was just the two of us that loaded up. I loaded up my offroad equipped CR250 (big gas tank ect) and my dual sport xt600. Tony loaded his trusty ktm200 and his new toy, an xr650r with license plate. We started at 7am on a Wed morning and after 1000miles we arrived 11:00ish that night. I had made reservations at the CanyonLands campground. We found our cabin and quickly unloaded and tried our best to sleep.
Thursday morning found us a little bit winded after our 1000 mile march. Read that as we slept in a bit. We got moving at 10:30ish and I thought a dual sport ride would be just the thing to get things started. We headed out on the very scenic hwy128 and headed up the river to Castle Valley. This route was to take us into the La Sal Mountains south of Moab. Before we started climbing, we took some spur trails just for fun. Soon we hit the climbing and wound our way up a nice twisty bit of asphalt that goes up and over the mountain. At the top, we took a dirt trail that winds up being part of the Kokopelli Trail which is one of the holy grails to those who mountain bike. we rode this at a good pace and were feeling great. Eventually, we come to an intersection and we take the forest service road back to pavement and down the rest of the mountain. By the time we roll into town, we have chalked up 89 miles. We hit the showers and considered food as we havent had a thing all day. I chose Zacks. This place serves awesome pizza and a pretty decent salad bar too. We did our best to eat $10 of the all-u-can-eat pizza before showing ourselves out the door. Its 6:00ish and I am still itching to ride so I suggest a quick ride out to Hurrah Pass and finish up with Chicken Corners before dark. We accomplish both of these trails and after viewing the vistas, we ride back into Moab with another 52 miles on the bikes. If you go and do Chicken Corners, be sure to follow out the trail to Pack Off point. There is a rim trail that is an honest 18 inches wide with rock overhead and a 1200ft drop on your right. We get home and drink to our good fortune.
Friday finds us at the Poison Spider trail head. this time we decide to ride the 2strokers. We bomb up the trail that is more technical than what we rode the day before. The miles on this type of trail come at a much slower pace. We find our way to the top of Poison Spider Mesa and ride some really cool slickrock. The trail connects with the Portal trail and we wind our way to the rim. Of course, the view is spectacular, and can not really be described with words. We meet a bunch of MTBers from Canada and do our best to get along with the pedal people. We all enjoy the view for quite awhile. The rim looks down on the Colorado river and the town of Moab. We noted a group of kayakers coming down the river at a good clip. The river is hauling due to the quick snowmelt in Colorado and for once, there was lots of snow in the Rockies. We then push on down the trail onto the Golden Spike trail and wind our way north. After coming to a point we recognized from last year, we decide to loop back to the Poison Spider and head to the truck. On the way back, we climb some pretty steep hill climbs made entirely of slickrock. It was as they say, epic. While we were blitzing the mesa, we came upon the famous "cross" where Alice was supposedly buried after being bitten by a you guessed it......a poison spider. Quick picture and we were on our way down to the truck. All said and done, we racked up 25 miles. Food was later found at the Moab Brewery and it was in the form of a pretty darn good burrito for me. We still had daylight, so I suggested heading up Potash Rd to view some pictographs that the area is famous for. Right there in plain sight were the symbols pecked in the rock 700+ years ago. The cabin is waiting for us and of course there was cold beer for us to finish the day off with.
After consulting the maps on Friday night, I plot Sat. ride through the Shaffer Trail/White Rim/Island in the Sky/Long Canyon. This was a longer dual sport ride and required carrying some extra fuel on Tony's part. His Big Red Thumper drinks Big Amounts of Gasoline. We figured mileage to be in the mid 40s while my xt was getting 75+. Anyway, we head out of town on the road known as Potash Road. It is a great road that winds down the river northwest of town. Soon the pavement turns to dirt. Next is the potash plant which the road is named after. There are some huge evaporation pools which are dyed the prettiest blue. The color is blue to encourage the evaporation. Past the plant goes the road. Soon we are looking over the edge once again all goggle-eyed at the drop to the river below. We pull over again and find ourselves at Dead Horse Point. You have seen this picture even if you dont recognize the name. Later, we cross the National Park boundry into the Island in the Sky District. Six miles later, we are at an intersection with the world famous White Rim Trail. We take a left and make our way down the trail to Mussleman Arch. This trail is pretty busy with a mix of jeeps/bicycles/motorcycles. The trail is 110 miles in length and basically runs the rim on a ledge half way down the canyon wall. Pictures of Mussleman Arch go into the camera and we head back onto the trail. To finish off the Shaffer Trail, you head into a box canyon. Even from 1 mile from the end you swear there is no way out......untill you see the switchbacks. Steep and stacked on one another is the best way to describe them. Up we go. On top, we look back on our climb and marvel at the scenery. We take a short break at what is probably the smallest visitor center in the NPS. They do have a good video and cold water though. Back on the bikes, we head out of the park and across the mesa. A quick right at Dead Horse State Park finds us headed off to Long Canyon road. This time the switchbacks are downhill all the while we admire Moab valley and the Behind the Rocks areas. Into town we go, and off to find some food. This time it is Eddie McStiffs and like the others, its pretty tasty. After dinner finds us shopping for family in hopes that our kitchen passes will be stamped with approval at a later time.
We are checking trails off the map now but we have heard Top of the World is one not to be missed. That becomes our plan for Saturday. The trailhead is 40 miles upriver which is not a bad thing as the road winds along the mighty Colorado which by this point is so full that commercial outfitters are not taking any trips due to the high water. Turning right at Dewey bridge finds us on Entrada Bluffs Road. Two strokes warmed up and ready, camelbacks full, camera full of digital film, tools on the ready....I think we are a go. We find the Top of the World trail and it heads pretty much straight up. A 3000ft gain in a little over 3 miles. Up and up and up and wait there is sky. We park the bikes and walk the last 20ft. WOW Holy Crap! Thats Just Stupid! Insane! Yes, those are meant to be adjectives. You could see up into Fisher Valley, the Colorado basin, Arches National Park, Onion Creek, Henry Mountains, Moab Valley, Klondike Bluffs, La Sal Mountains and on and on and on. And the rim drop we are standing on is at least 2000ft. The breeze at 7030ft feels good so we decide to stay awhile. Soon, a jeep with a couple from Colorado appears. Later some lunatics on pedal bikes make it to the top with hearts beating at least 250bpm. They suffer for their art for sure. We watch crows floating the ridge on air currents and i just imagine what it would be like to paraglide off the edge. Talk about repelling the cliff comes about but where are you gonna get a rope 1/2 mile long. I decide i could only do it in the dark while Tony talks about going face down. Back to the birds. I am deciding if it would be worth it to give up my hands and arms in trade for a pair of wings, when all of the sudden i see this different bird come into the picture above the crows. Hey, that looks like a .............as he tucks his wings and accelerates to mach 1 in full attack mode free dive. I couldnt see the result of the attack because the steepness of the cliff. That is the first time ive actually seen a falcon in person. Hawks/eagles all of the time but a first for a falcon. We head off down the trail and soon caught up with the MTB crew while they were taking a break. We are just plunkin along and the MTB guys actually pass us. These guys are serious. I jump in behind the lead guy and follow at a safe distance. It would be safe to say they averaged 22+mph going down a very rock infested trail. Very impressive considering consequences for a get off. At the bottom, they go left and we turn right. I wanted to get back on the Kokopelli Trail and use it as a connector to the Green River Overlook. As expected, the Kokopelli is a great ride. We wind our way 30 miles out to the overlook before turning back to the truck. Once at the truck, we head over to the historical Dewey Bridge and walk out on it and admire the chocolate river running hard under us. Its bizarre standing on a bridge where if it werent for the 55 degree water running under us, it would be 110 degrees. Back to town and a well deserved shower and food. Pasta Jay is the place tonight and it was tasty.
Last day to ride is here and we had agreed in advance to make it Kane Creek. It was last years final ride and would be destined to become tradition. This time we chose to ride the length of the canyon from the bottom to the top. It is the CR and KTM out on the trail. What makes this trail so cool is the water which is so opposing to the landscape we have been riding. There are numerous water crossings and creekbed traverses. One of the pitfalls for leading is uh finding pitfalls. On the second water crossing i see the trail continue on the other side and dive in. Before i know it the water is up to the top of my boots. I kill the motor and wrangle the bike back onto higher ground. I dump some fuel and check the air filter for water. Take out plug and pump for water. It all looks good and she fires right up. We find an alternate and continue on. From now on, Im a little more cautious before entering the water. There are actual trees on this trail. Massive cottonwoods and little cottonwoods. Large stretches of sand appear now and then too. Nine miles up we get to the part of the canyon that heads up. Last year we had trouble at this one spot and it kind of stuck in my craw that i didnt clear it riding. You know, bikes are easier to deal with when they move under their own power. After looking over the object of my disaffection, I recall why this stretch was difficult. I tried it anyway and made a better attempt at it and was able to singlehand the bike over it even if i didnt ride over it. We head back the last nine miles of this years trip and all i could keep saying to myself was DONT FALL DONT FALL DONT FALL. Just like all of the other rides, nobody fell, and other than sore bodies from 6 days riding, we came out like champs. Sixth day same story....we get to town....shower...and find food...this time mexican. But there was a difference with this meal that would haunt me later. After dinner, we hit all of the very cool and very well known bike shops in town. Tony bought a cool bike jersey that i really wanted but need to save some more pennies. I did get a killer Poison Spider Bicycle Shop cap. Look me up at DirtWeek, Ill probably still be wearing it. We get back to the cabin and finish the last two brews in the cooler. Packing is done and we agree on an early am start (3am) for home. Its 10:00 and I should be tired. Every other night at this time I am content to look at the back of my eyelids. Rewind back to the mexican food diner. I had been drinking water for dinner every night until tonight. I freakin ordered tea and it was very strong. All nine glasses very large glassfulls. And you thought it was something else haunting me. As I lay there watching the hours go by, I start panicking. It is a 17hour drive home and I would have to do my share. I reassure myself, hey, Tony is sleeping and I could drive early before the tea buzz wore off. The alarm goes off and Tony gets up. I kinda laugh and tell him about my bad news about my zero sleep. He says he has an even funnier story, he didnt sleep a wink either. We cranked up the truck and slipped out of the campground. Soon, Moab was in our rearview mirror and Texas was on our minds. After a very cool picture at Shiprock NM, a little used backroad mountain NWof Alberqurque, a little cafe in Tucumcari, and lots of good conversation to go with the miles, we arrive home safe and sound.
Final thoughts on the trip includes the people who wanted to go but couldnt, great companion to ride with and the planning for next year. I am truly sorry John, Jeff and Kristin for you having to read about this trip......next time for sure. Tony, thanks for the memories and adventure. I saw a shirt in town that said:
MONDAY
TUESDAY
WEDNSDAY
THURSDAY
FRIDAY
SATURDAY
SUNDAY
SEE........THERE IS NO SOMEDAY
Even if it isnt Moab, please act on your DREAM RIDES! Hell, give me and Tony a call and we will do our best to join you.
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