warming up 2 stroke Q's .. please help

[stephend]

I know ur not really suppose to warm up 2 strokes for too long , thatts how u foul the plug but ppl also told me if u dont warm them up enough thats how u foul the plugs... please anyone with a 2 stroke , i live on long island its about 45 deg everyday sometimes 50 sometimes 30 but even still when i pull her out how should i wamr her up.. should i start her up with a maybe give a few quick revs let it idle for about 5 sec and give it 3-4 quarter throttle revs and let it back to idle... if not which should i do and for how long

please let me know i hate fouling my plugs and not even that i just wana do whats best for my bike .
-thnx

 

[BSWIFT]

Ok, start the engine, use the choke if necessary. After 20-30 secs, take the choke off and use short revs of the engine for a couple of more minutes. The cylinder will start loading up and you will have to clear it out with some higher revs but check the top of the radiator carefully with your fingers to see if it is warm to the touch. If warm to the touch, rev the bike a bit higher and longer. This is only warming the cylinder and cooling system, at this point the tranny fluid is probably still cool. Ride the bike and clean out the loaded up oil and have fun. The tranny fluid will warm quickly once you start riding.
Change your tranny fluid often and insure that your carb is jetted properly.

 

[1BAD250]

just like bswift said 2-3 min. is all you need. :cool:

 

[kx125412]

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=142397&highlight=warm+stroke

 

[mmz77]

Oh god that video is just too horrible to watch :coocoo:

 

[MikeT]

Where do you ride on Long Island?? I used to live there.

 

[destructo]

I'll always let it warm while every so often short rev to clear out the cylinder, letting it warm until the top of the block were the cylinder meets the motor starts to warm, that way you will ensure the piston wont cold sieze, where the piston heats faster then the cylinder and it locks up, reason to let the top of the block warm is to insure the clutch plates have began to warm and you wont have to worry about the plates slipping prematurely.

 

[76GMC1500]

Warm up is simple. I start it and run it at a fast idle for a minute, then I cruise on the road to the first trail (2nd or 3rd gear and minimal throttle). By the time I'm at the trail, I just clear it out and then it's time to fly. There isn't much to warming up the transmission. Running a cold transmission on 10w40 is just like running a hot transmission on 80w90. The clutch will drag a little more when cold, but you are not going to cause any unusual or premature wear by being too hard on the gearbox while cold.

 

[destructo]

Warm up is simple. I start it and run it at a fast idle for a minute, then I cruise on the road to the first trail (2nd or 3rd gear and minimal throttle). By the time I'm at the trail, I just clear it out and then it's time to fly. There isn't much to warming up the transmission. Running a cold transmission on 10w40 is just like running a hot transmission on 80w90. The clutch will drag a little more when cold, but you are not going to cause any unusual or premature wear by being too hard on the gearbox while cold.

Clutch plates need friction from heat to work the way they are designed, ive had clucthes start to slip from cold riding before I changed out several dozen and they do last longer from extended warm ups. :nod: