old_school
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- Apr 5, 2004
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Does anyone know of the best way to allow ‘additional airflow” as required by FMF (Gnarly Pipe) yet still maintain some level of waterproofing?
2001 KDX200
2001 KDX200
Waterproof Air box?
- Thread starter old_school
- Start date
remove the air box and boot assembly. remove the 4 nuts holding them together and clean thoroughly. then lay a nice rtv bead at the sealing area and reassemble. you will be completely waterproof all the way up to your seat---if you ride in water deeper than that, you may need to jury rig some sort of snorkle that runs up your back! :eek:
old_school
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- Apr 5, 2004
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- Thread starter
- #4
You're correct. The airbox cover has been removed as suggested by FMF. My concern is keeping it dry in there. I've also heard that some people will just drill a bunch of large holes in the top.
Now that wont stop water from getting in, but a little water is better than a lot of water i guess.
Now that wont stop water from getting in, but a little water is better than a lot of water i guess.
old school---i think you're worrying too much. the only bike i ever drowned was my old suzuki 185---did it twice. the air box had nowhere close to the kdx's ability to avoid water and still it was very hard to kill. it took sustained water up to the seat to kill it---a quick splash that deep had no effect. besides, it's easy enough to get back to the truck, if you soak it. just turn the bike upside down, pull the plug, put it in gear and spin the back wheel 'til the water stops coming out---the fun part is the 50 yards or so of push starting before it finally catches on and runs. it's not a big deal---ride on, my brother!!! :thumb:
old_school
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- Apr 5, 2004
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- Thread starter
- #7
You're probably right. There's only one way to find out... My guess is that I'll be seat deep soon enough.
forgot something else---besides good grease in all the right places to fight off the water. The flywheel cover is notorious for leaking. Take it off carefully and you can reuse the gasket.
remove gasket and clean the mating surface on the cover and engine. Apply rtv to the cover being sure to completely coat the entire gasket suface and the outer lip area. Once it cures but not quite dry, press the gasket in place---let cure until gasket is firmly adhered. now coat the gasket w/rtv and reinstall the cover. Mine always leaked until this proceedure. Now it's bone dry after every ride. :yeehaw:
remove gasket and clean the mating surface on the cover and engine. Apply rtv to the cover being sure to completely coat the entire gasket suface and the outer lip area. Once it cures but not quite dry, press the gasket in place---let cure until gasket is firmly adhered. now coat the gasket w/rtv and reinstall the cover. Mine always leaked until this proceedure. Now it's bone dry after every ride. :yeehaw:
And don't think that a boyeson flywheel cover will solve your problem. I had less water with my stocker. Now she is siliconed and has a small hole with a small bolt to check for water after washing.
I also drown a yz250 twice in 30 minutes in the Rockies. It sucks getting pulled under and dragged down stream for about 50 ft while holding on to your bike and helmet still on. Turn it over and pump it out, fresh plug and never look back.
Muddy water is an entirely different story.
I also drown a yz250 twice in 30 minutes in the Rockies. It sucks getting pulled under and dragged down stream for about 50 ft while holding on to your bike and helmet still on. Turn it over and pump it out, fresh plug and never look back.
Muddy water is an entirely different story.
jaguar
~SPONSOR~
This is the answer you were looking for:
Yes, taking off the "snorkel" will allow muddy water in. The air filter will pass it in because it only catches "dry" dirt particles with the air filter oil. The muddy water gets up there when it gets tossed "up" there while you are splashing through muddy water. My solution is to toss the restrictive snorkel and cut out a bigger rectangular hole. Then use something (I used cut out pieces from a quart sized mineral water bottle) that you can duct tape them in place to build a 3/8" or 1/2" tall "wall" around the big hole to prevent creeping water from coming into the air box. Also you'll need to duct tape the front edge of the cover to the air box. Also tape the right upper side of the air box to the frame, effectively making a "splash guard" for that vulnerable side. These two mating surfaces let splashed water in. Also as someone else mentioned, silicone seal the air boot to air box juncture. If you have already drilled holes in the air box lid for greater air flow then this fix won't work for you and you'll need to buy another lid (they are cheap enough) and do it right. I finally put my noggin to work on this problem after I lost the last MX race due to the throttle sticking open with dirty water getting in. It was dissappointing because I was going to win and it was going to be my only win of the year. I got 2nd place the first moto and then pulled off the track with this problem while in 1st place the second moto. I was all prepared except for this one weak spot - water intake prevention. Also I've put silicone seal on the top of my carburetor to keep water getting in there where the cable sheath rests against the carb top. Theres a rubber boot there but I think water could still get in.
Yes, taking off the "snorkel" will allow muddy water in. The air filter will pass it in because it only catches "dry" dirt particles with the air filter oil. The muddy water gets up there when it gets tossed "up" there while you are splashing through muddy water. My solution is to toss the restrictive snorkel and cut out a bigger rectangular hole. Then use something (I used cut out pieces from a quart sized mineral water bottle) that you can duct tape them in place to build a 3/8" or 1/2" tall "wall" around the big hole to prevent creeping water from coming into the air box. Also you'll need to duct tape the front edge of the cover to the air box. Also tape the right upper side of the air box to the frame, effectively making a "splash guard" for that vulnerable side. These two mating surfaces let splashed water in. Also as someone else mentioned, silicone seal the air boot to air box juncture. If you have already drilled holes in the air box lid for greater air flow then this fix won't work for you and you'll need to buy another lid (they are cheap enough) and do it right. I finally put my noggin to work on this problem after I lost the last MX race due to the throttle sticking open with dirty water getting in. It was dissappointing because I was going to win and it was going to be my only win of the year. I got 2nd place the first moto and then pulled off the track with this problem while in 1st place the second moto. I was all prepared except for this one weak spot - water intake prevention. Also I've put silicone seal on the top of my carburetor to keep water getting in there where the cable sheath rests against the carb top. Theres a rubber boot there but I think water could still get in.
89kdx200rdr
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- Apr 19, 2003
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go thru the water faster have you seen that vid of kevin windham riding across that pond?
