Big Tuna

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Nov 29, 2000
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I read in DR a while ago something about useing WD-40 when puting on stickers. Has anybody used this method for adhering their graphics kits, and does it work well?
 

BSWIFT

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I use WD40 to remove the old glue. I use soapy water to set my graphics in place. Allow plenty of time to let them dry and stick. Use a squeegy to get the little air bubbles out.
 

a454elk

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I heard about that too but have always used windex to apply it then squeegy it out like BSWIFT said.
 

Jaybird

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Another Windex user. Hair dryers are nice to have handy as well.
I think you will ruin the graphics is you use WD-40 to apply them.
 

Shaw520

Damn Yankees
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Yep, spray plastics with windex before applying graphics, (I use the one with out amonia), and a hair dryer for getting them off. WD-40 works good for getting off the old glue left behind from an old graphic, but keep in mind that WD-40 will dull the plastic, and remove its original shine.
 

utah nate

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Apr 8, 2002
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To remove glue left by old decals try a product called Speedy 500. It's a solvent we use in the automotive industry to remove glue left by moldings and stripe tape. It can be had at any autobody supply store and works amazingly well.
 

truespode

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Jun 30, 1999
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The best thing IMO to install graphics is a 50/50 solution of water and rubbing alcohol. Use an old credit card to squegy out the wrinkles.

The solution evaporates rather quickly and cleanly.

Ivan
 

Big Tuna

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Nov 29, 2000
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:thumb: Thanks guys, any handy tips for seat covers while we're at it?
This time I'm going to c/o the stock shrouds, and seat cover right off the bat, so I'll be doing the seat and graphics this week :cool:
I sure wish that the YZ didn't have the graphics on the tank though.
 

Moto Squid

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When I bought some graphics they said the "proper" solution was 3-4 drops of detergent to 1 pint of water...that's too much work so I just used Windex :confused:

Use a hair dryer and not a hot air gun, or at least be careful; ya'd never guess that those graphics can actually start on fire if you are having a stupid attack at the time of the crime ;)
 
B

biglou

Tuna-I was at work struggling to put the seat cover on Jamie's hurricane and one of the upholsterers came over and said, "Let me have that!" I will tell you what I think can make it very easy and make it look a lot better: Steam. The guys at work use a steam wand to heat the cover so it stretched out real easy and then when it cooled, after stapled in place, it was nice and tight. Looked factory new. I am thinking you can use an iron with steam and get the same result. Just steam the area you are working with, take care around the corners. Should come out looking quite nice! :)
 

Big Tuna

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Nov 29, 2000
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The hurricane kit looks awsome Lou, thanks for the tip I will definitely give it a try.
Maybe I'll do what I do when I don't feel like ironing, and bring it into the bathroom and take a hot shower. :confused:
Could be tricky get'n to the garage before it cools though :confused:
Maybe I'll just use the iron or a kettle. :thumb:
 

motometal

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careful, don't melt it! I think an iron could easily approach or exceed the melting or "ruining" temp of your seat cover material, if it was set too high, and of course it would have to be over 212 F to even make steam!
 
B

biglou

Let me explain: I meant to use an iron with the steam function. Just to hold the iron so the steam will soften the area of the seat cover you are working with. Do not actually "iron" the seat cover! Sorry, I should have been more clear in my first post. :o
 

Ol'89r

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Tuna.

You can soak it in very hot water also. Same idea as Big Lou's steam iron, but you don't have to sneak the wifes steam iron out into the garage. :scream:

The hot water softens the material and allows it to stretch a little. When it dries out it will shrink down and stretch all the little wrinkles out. Damn, :eek: Wish I could do that with my face. ;)

Anyway, I've done this with many seats and the water seems to have no effect on the cover or foam when it dries out.

Good luck. :thumb:

Just my $.02
 

a454elk

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I left my cover out in the driveway under the sun for an hour and it was nice and toasty. I also have the Craftsman staple gun and it works like a charm.
 

Big Tuna

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Nov 29, 2000
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Yeah that's kinda what I figured was to just use the steam of the iron. :thumb:
If I actually used the iron you would probably se a pretty unhappy couple, wife (gummed up iron), me (unappealing, but unique iron mark on seat). :confused:
I've got some practice with a couple of pairs of shorts that I've just got to hover the iron over them, and if I get to close things will melt :eek:
Thanks for the tips!
 

CPT Jack

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Lou, you do nice work :worship:
 

YZ Joust

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Toss the seat cover in the dryer for a few minutes... This will make it easier to work with.... Just make sure you keep your eye on it...
 

Thump

Jr Admin Type
Jan 17, 2000
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Originally posted by YZ Joust
Toss the seat cover in the dryer for a few minutes... This will make it easier to work with.... Just make sure you keep your eye on it...
Exactly! Have done more seat covers than I like to admit... Joust has my method of heating the cover.

As for putting on the graphics, I use nothing... just careful when I put them on. Pull back a corner of the backing (wax paper) and fold it over. Place the corner in the spot you think is correct then lay the rest flat to double check. Since only the corner adhesive is exposed it will be easy to adjust until you get it in the right spot. Once you have it in the right position beging pulling the rest of the backing off while at the same time burnishing the graphic down with your hand (a soft cloth works good too) If you see a bubble, just pull back and smooth it out. it does not get any easier.
 

Thump

Jr Admin Type
Jan 17, 2000
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If you use WD40 the graphic will never stick. Also if you use it to take old adhessive off be sure to wipe the surface down with windex, pro clean or simple green to get rid of the oils.
 

Smit-Dog

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I think the Windex trick works great. Spray lightly on the back of the exposed decal, and spray the plastic lightly. Slips and slides very easily so you can position it. Press down and out from the center to push out the excess Windex and bubbles. The Windex gives you plenty of time to position the graphic. It dries after a short while.

Lou - You are a true professional!
 

hoosierf

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Toalco:

I hold the windex bottle back far enough that one shot will cover the entire area, make sure the pump is primed and give it one good full shot and start applying the decal. Too much windex and it's hard to squegee it all out.
 
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