WEIRD jetting problem - ideas?

[robwbright]

Order parts 21 and 22, http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/suzuki-motorcycle-rm125k2-2002/o/m6558, and the leak down kit will tell you if your bottom end is sealed, http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/2-stroke_leak_down_tester/. And if anyone advises you to start monkeying with your main or needle first, you should know that they do not know what the heck they are talking about? It is real possible that when you remember when it changed how it ran, either the float valve started screwing up or the right crank seal took a crap? Even if you view the fuel shutting off, does not mean it is functioning correctly while you are riding. It wears and/or gets a build up, and causes unperceivable issues, and just needs to be replaced yearly. Did you always run the Bills pipe?

I don't think I'm going to be spending $308.50+shipping to determine if the bottome end is sealed on a $1200-1500 bike.

If you'd like to make a financial contribution, I'll be more than happy to order it. . . :)

I'll just wait until winter and work on the bottom end seals.

 

[robwbright]

Order parts 21 and 22, http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/suzuki-motorcycle-rm125k2-2002/o/m6558, and the leak down kit will tell you if your bottom end is sealed, http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/2-stroke_leak_down_tester/. And if anyone advises you to start monkeying with your main or needle first, you should know that they do not know what the heck they are talking about? It is real possible that when you remember when it changed how it ran, either the float valve started screwing up or the right crank seal took a crap? Even if you view the fuel shutting off, does not mean it is functioning correctly while you are riding. It wears and/or gets a build up, and causes unperceivable issues, and just needs to be replaced yearly. Did you always run the Bills pipe?

Thanks for the part #s on the float, though. I will likely order that next week with a new pilot and needle.

 

[rpm12505]

We have a different year but our experience w/ EG144 has been stock main and 3 sizes smaller on pilot. Still could go leaner according to air screw. Stick with suzuki pilot jets they seem to be different than the mikuni ones I bought. Also I believe suzuki pilot jets are in 1/2 sizes.

P.S. pump gas ate our float needle and 2 motor mounts cracked. Thats our 2 cents Good luck.

 

[_JOE_]

I don't think I'm going to be spending $308.50+shipping to determine if the bottome end is sealed on a $1200-1500 bike.

If you'd like to make a financial contribution, I'll be more than happy to order it. . . :)

I'll just wait until winter and work on the bottom end seals.

Do you have a local repair shop? I just had a leak down test done on my crf a couple days ago. I removed the tank before I took it in so it only took him about 5 minutes to do it.

 

[robwbright]

We have a different year but our experience w/ EG144 has been stock main and 3 sizes smaller on pilot. Still could go leaner according to air screw. Stick with suzuki pilot jets they seem to be different than the mikuni ones I bought. Also I believe suzuki pilot jets are in 1/2 sizes.

P.S. pump gas ate our float needle and 2 motor mounts cracked. Thats our 2 cents Good luck.

3 smaller on the pilot? Wow. :whoa:

 

[FNG]

I am 2 sizes smaller on the pilot on my '95 YZ 250 and will be going down one more size, as well as 1 size on the main.

Blubbery right off idle, clean the rest of the way but my plug is dark brown and I am getting a little splooge out the back end.

FWIW anyways.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Blubbery right off idle, clean the rest of the way but my plug is dark brown and I am getting a little splooge out the back end.

Hmm, have you ever replaced your float valve? The carbs abillity to control the fuel is kind of important?

 

[FNG]

Hmm, have you ever replaced your float valve? The carbs abillity to control the fuel is kind of important?

No, I haven't but when I cleaned the carb I polished the float valve as well as the seat.

Seems to me most, if not all these 2 smokes are blubbery on the bottom and sploogie out the end.

Most guys seem to accept it, some try to tune it right.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Everything on the bike has an expected number of hours that it is reliable and capable of making peak horsepower. After that, it just needs to be rebuilt or replaced. A thirty dollar part does not need a lot of figuring and jury rigging, just replace it. Bikes with issues are blubbery and blowing spooge! Right around 300 dollars in parts, correctly jetting your bike, and try and hang on!

 

[_JOE_]

Everything on the bike has an expected number of hours that it is reliable and capable of making peak horsepower. After that, it just needs to be rebuilt or replaced. A thirty dollar part does not need a lot of figuring and jury rigging, just replace it. Bikes with issues are blubbery and blowing spooge! Right around 300 dollars in parts, correctly jetting your bike, and try and hang on!

Very true. ALOT of people run bikes till they just won't run anymore. MX bikes are NOT cheap to maintain. I would image ALOT of spooging in older bikes is related to crank seal seepage. Most people wait till thier bike runs bad to try and jet it, only to get frustrated because they can't get good results due to a mechanical issue.

Want a clean running bike? Tear it down, split the cases, rebuild it from the bottom up. Clean the power valve. Repack the silencer and replace your air filter. Go get the best fuel you can find and afford, no less than PREMIUM pump, and a few jets. Head out an open area and spend a day experimenting with the jetting and getting some seat of the pants feedback. Get the bike running at it's strongest and shazam! No more spooging.

 

[FNG]

Everything on the bike has an expected number of hours that it is reliable and capable of making peak horsepower. After that, it just needs to be rebuilt or replaced. A thirty dollar part does not need a lot of figuring and jury rigging, just replace it. Bikes with issues are blubbery and blowing spooge! Right around 300 dollars in parts, correctly jetting your bike, and try and hang on!

Yes, and if you buy a used bike from a guy that left it bone stock, then after a good carb clean, repack, power valve cleaning and top end inspection with a corresponding compression check the next logical step is what?

To use your own words to "correctly jet the bike" Then after that run it:)