Why So Hard To Kick Over???

Jan 12, 2006
30
0
Hi there. I recenly purchased a 91 kx250. It has a rebuilt top end, pro-ciurcut, fmf turbine core.

It runs great, really fast. But i have one issue. It is flat out hard to start when cold. After the third kick over, it probably fouls out the plug, so then i remove plug, and spray down the plug with brake kleen. Then it starts! The kick starts hurts my foot after the third or fifth kick.

Why is it so hard to start?

Are there any tricks?

Also, there are two windows that can be opened up or closed on the side of the airbox. What are they for?

How many hp should my bike be putting out?

The newbie says thanks!

rws
 

Someone

Member
Mar 12, 2001
865
0
Turn gas on, turn choke on, tip bike all the way over until gas runs out of the overflow tube, wait about 4-5 seconds, kick it.
 

mattb348

Member
Aug 2, 2005
204
0
I wouldn't spray anything at all on the plug. I've never heard of a plug fouling before the bike even started lol. Does it ever foul the plug shortly after starting though? If so, then it means your pilot (or slow) jet is to rich, which is very common on KX's. Beleive me I know; I have 2 :)

As far as kicking it over. There are a couple of tricks. Also, the taller you are, the easier it is going to be. But if you are shorter you can always put the bike next to something you can grab, then hold it up as you stand up to kick it over.

But anyways, I have found a trick that you can do to make it A: kick over easier, and B: not hurt your foot nearly as much. What you do is push the kicker down slowly until you find the point where it kicks hardest (the point where the piston is at the very top). Now bring the kicker all the way up. Put your foot nice and tight against it, and then just push downward as hard and FAST as you can; do NOT jump up, as that always seems to make it hurt 10x as bad, and your foot is likely to slip off. You can even tear holes in your shoes that way; I've done it.

I have heard of people leaning the bike over until gas spills out the overflow, but I really see no need; a rebuilt bike should start in about 2 kicks if you kick it over right (and fast).

I am 6'1" so kicking stuff over is pretty easy for me. I can kick my KX 500 over all day and it never hurts. Hell, I started it up wearing sandals one day just becuase I wanted to try it LOL! But the tricks I mentioned should definitely help out.

Also, the shutters on your air box do have a purpose: When its really wet (like if you are riding through puddles of water) then you are supposed to close them, as it wont let water (atleast not as much) into your airbox, which will get your air filter wet. But normally you leave them all the way open, which lets more air in, and gives better performance (or so the manual says). Personally I would always leave them all the way open unless you feel like driving though rivers and ponds etc LOL.

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions if need be.
 
Jan 12, 2006
30
0
Sweet. Yeah Ive been putting a milk crate next to the bike and then kicking it over with one foot on the crate. Well, it is fouling the plug before it starts sometimes. When the bike hasent been started in a few days, its really harder to start. And after i clean the plug, it seems to start after third kick. It never has fouled the plug after starting. After it starts, then it all runs good. After it warms up(which takes a while), it will need a good few runs to blow everything out of the bottom end, then it will rev through the powerband, but only after it has blown everything out. Is this normal? What im sayin is, that you cant just start the bike, let it warm up for a minute, then ride it and expect it to rev all the way through the band. Normal?

And also, Im not sure if the choke is good for a cold start on my bike, because if its fouling the plug under choke off, then that would make it run even richer/wetter plug right?

I think i should rebuild the carb. Anyone know of where i can get a rebuild kit?
What should my jetting be at?
stock bore, uni foam filter, pro-cuircut pipe with fmf turbine core.

Also, is it normal for my bike to be really really light switch like powerband. I mean, its on or off the band. Just goes from whahhhh to whaaaaaaaaah! Like that? Is that the powervalve opening or just the pipe resonating perfectly? The whole tone of the bike starts to shriek.

Once again, this is my first dirtbike, and im pretty un knowledgeable.
Thanks!
vic
 

mattb348

Member
Aug 2, 2005
204
0

I think the older KX's are known to have that "on and off switch" powerband :)

As far as choke: I would definitely choke it when its cold, and kick it over without giving it any throttle till it starts. Take the choke off shortly after starting it. I don't think its fouling before it starts; I just think you didn't kick it over enough before you took the plug out.

I beleive its normal for it to be loaded up right after warming it up, but it should clear up after you hit the powerband through a couple of grears and wind it up.

If its really loaded bad after warmup (or after letting it idle or run real slow for a few seconds) then it prolly has to rich of a pilot jet (very common for KX's).

As far as a rebuild kit, I have no idea. I have never used one. I don't think dirt bike carbs really need them. But you can buy jets for it, and it most likely is not jetted perfect yet. Jetting is easier than you think. Just search for "jetting" on these forums and you will find more info than you ever wanted on the subject :)

Good luck!
 

mattb348

Member
Aug 2, 2005
204
0
REARWHEELSLIDER said:
Thanks!

Yeah, it clears its throught when i rev it through the gears....

rws

Every 2 stoke I've ever ridden does that, snowmobiles included. Its perfectly normal for it to that. If it doesn't run right after its warmed up and you have gunned it a couple times, THEN I would start to worry :)

BTW just so you know, if you really fouled a plug, I don't think you would ever get it to work again. I never could, thats for sure. I even tried heating it with a lighter and everything. It gets fouled by carbon building up on the insulator behind the threads, which shorts it out and doesn't let it spark. But it has to actually run to build up carbon :)

Don't give up after 3 kicks; just keep plugging away a few times before you change the plug. Also, whenever my bikes sit for a few days they start hard to, and they are both in utterly mind condition with TONS of compression. I think that is normal as well.

My 250 usually starts on 2 kicks, the 500 is usually like 3 or 4 I think. But only if they have been started within like 3 or 4 days heheh.

If you are to soar after kicking it over 3 times, then you are probably doing something wrong, or its becuase your foot is already so soar from kicking it the wrong way to begin with so many times before :)

Also, once you get motocross boots you can kick it over all day, any way you want, and your foot will NEVER get soar. You wont even feel it in fact :)

But you don't even need mx boots to kick it over IMO.
 
Jan 12, 2006
30
0
Yeah, i am using DC SHOES skater shoes to kick it over at home. But when i took it out for its one and only ride, i used my roadrace boots, and no problems with soar foot!

I have seen my rd350 (two stroke) foul a brand new plug, when it was just too rich pilot wise. What happened in that case was that the oil mixed with the gas got on the ceramic cone and all the way down to the plug base, then all the way up the steel wall of the plug to the tang(prong, whatever you want to call it). Basically, it shorted out the plug so it did not produce spark any longer. But that was with the 70's style ignition sysem of points and weak coils. Im sure the cdi and strong coils are not doing that....

What to do if i cant get her kicked over and started within five kicks? It justs kinda frustrated me because im used to my bike strating within five kicks. But on a cold morning, im sure the f-ing thing will not start. Then what???

The previous owner has the idle adjusted by using the throttle slack adjuster(the mid cable one w/ locknut), not the slide stop screw. It sems as if the stop screw is not even screwing in far enough to hit the slide. Why dosent it protrude far enough to hit the slide? I dont think its the wrong screw. Ok, one last question. Regarding the air screw, what should i be at? Does it change from bike to bike, or is it set default to 1-1/4 or something?

BTW, I LOVE this dirtbike! It is just so fuggin peaky. I tried to negotiate a hill climb, my first ever! I dont know jack about birtbiking right, only road/track. So i fuggin hit the hill in the band, and the rear tire starts to reaallly get loose, so i shift some weight to the rear, and the front wheel comes up and im ridin a wheelie 50-60% of the way up this nasty hillclimb. I make it the first time! But the second time, thinkin im evil kinevil, i hit it, and i just flat out lose too much speed and she fall right out of the band, and then im done! No power= no hillclimbing. The bike falls on its side, and so do i and i start friggin sliding down this hill! Barely was able to get up to the bike and walk it down, a fuggin blast!

Thanks guys, this birtbike thing is really fun. I think this kx250 suits me well too.
Theres one thing i would like to make my bike more of a trail bike and not so much of a mxer. What can i do? Howabout a bigger fuel tank? It seems to run low of gas very soon, maybe an hour if riding.

Thanks!
rws
 

mattb348

Member
Aug 2, 2005
204
0

Yea thats the problem with the older bikes with the really touchy powerbands :) They don't have much low end. I have a 2002 KX 250 and it has tons of lowend, and a more controlable powerband.

I bet if I got on pavement and tried to ride a wheelie through all 5 gears like I do with my KX 250 I would prolly go over backwards pretty ez LOL.

You should see how much low end a KX 500 has :) Supposedly those things are great for hill climbs. I haven't done much with mine yet though; I only got to ride it like 3 times after I bought it, then it got to be to cold :(

As far as the screw not working for the idle adjustment, I don't know. Thats kinda odd. Have you even tried using it?

Lastly, the air screw defualt is most likely 1 and 1/2 or 1 and 1/4 turns out. You may wanna buy an owner's manual from your kawasaki dealer. It will tell you that info, along with what it uses for a slow and main jet, etc. And needle clip position. I think they sell for like $15.00 or so.

Oya one more thing: when you climb hills I would hit the powerband before you get there, and just let it screen teh whole way up; if you let off and punch it again its gonna lose to much traction, or if you are in a higher gear and let off, it may start to die.

Have a good one!
 

mattb348

Member
Aug 2, 2005
204
0
05KX125 said:
Welcome to the 2 stroke world!! SMOKERS FOREVER!! LOL!!!!

Yea, nothing better than a 2 stoke :)

The only 4 stoke motor that I actually LIKE the sound of is a crotch rocket onroad motorcycle. Or of course, the APEX snowmobile, which has the R1 crotch rocket motor in it (1,000 CC).

The apex sounds just like the R1 bike in case anyone is wondering :)
 
Jan 12, 2006
30
0
Yeah. I ride a gsxr. 12 second quarters, such a rush. Im actually one of the few that convert to dirt from street, not the other way round. I think i ride good in the dirt, but, then other fools just pass me on the trails and im at like 80 percent. almost falling off the thing.
On the road course though man, is where i get my groove on!


two smokes forever is right!
rws
 

mattb348

Member
Aug 2, 2005
204
0

Dirt training 101:

Today's lesson: How to NOT fall off.

Heres the big secret: Stand up while you ride rough :)

Have a nice day :)
 
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