Wiring for lights/grip heat

[canyncarvr]

Purpose: To switch separately from lights to grip heat with the assurance that no power is applied without regulation. Also do not want the VR to have power applied unless there is a load.

This'll work, won't it?

I can't run both lights AND heat. There is a separate switch for hi/lo selection on the grip heaters. A separate wire could isolate the taillight to headshell operation, but isn't really necessary.


Any problems with it?

Yeah...simple enough. I've thought that before......:(

++edit++
It works just fine. I knew that....really posted more from the standpoint of info someone else would find useful. Tell you what, though....gripheat is great! What a treat!! It is a bit more sanitary to make the common connection to the VR at the switch vs: in the wiring.

 

[cfr1970]

CC,

If I'm not mistaken, wouldn't your L+ to the switch originate from the coil output "Y"? Your electric to the taillights shouldn't be affected. Your DPDT switch should alternate between your headlight and your grip heaters. Center position should still be off, while the switch for the grip heaters should be resistor controlled for the low heat setting and a lower resistance value for the high heat setting. If I had any clue to uploading diagrams, I would. Basically, by your drawing, your shunt should be connected to the coil output "Y", and the coil output "Y" should be a constant connection to the taillight, unless, of course, you want to switch the taillight at the same time as the headlight. Then wire the taillight and headlight to the same pole on the switch you have controlling the lights. Hope that helps

 

[cfr1970]

By the way, it's a SPDT switch that you need your current drawing is showing some unnecessary wiring. I tried to upload a drawing for you, it didn't work.

 

[woodsy]

Hey CC - please accept this info in the spirit that of "helpfulness" - DO NOT think that I am trying to confuse the matter!! I have fought the low output stator on my KDX for 2 winters and here is what I came up with: Adding a "grip" selector switch is ESSENTIAL- put it next to your kill button! You WILL want to be able to control your grip heat "singularly"! With this option you will be able to keep warm (even though it is just one hand at a time) and still be able to use your lights. I know that sounds nuts but if you think about it the "coldest" time on the bike is in the dark and it is a major bummer to not have the option - I learned the hard way!
Its a shame the the KDX doesnt put out enough ummmph but IT DONT - plan ahead!
Woodsy
Hey, it beats freezing!

 

[canyncarvr]

cfr:'wouldn't your L+ to the switch originate from the coil output "Y"? '

That's the way it is. ..unless I misunderstand your question. 'Coil output Y' is the output from the coil that is a yellow wire. The 'to grip heat' will indeed go to the hi/lo selection switch of the grip heater kit.

A SPDT switch won't work. You'll end up with the lights on in either case because in both cases the coil output has to go to the VR. That makes a common connection that makes a SPDT switch pretty much useless.

The purpose of the shunt is to make the switch switch two things (to different functions) at the same time. When the 'heat' switch is made, the VR is still in the circuit, but the headlamp is not.

re: 'and the coil output "Y" should be a constant connection to the taillight'

I don't want that. I do want the coil output connected to nothing unless I'm using it...just like the oem wiring is doing.

Yes, I could switch the tail with the front with another wire. Not worth the trouble.

If you can make that happen with a SPDT switch, I'd like to see it.

No, a registered user cannot post pics. You can email it to me if you [email protected].

woodsy:
Granted...I've considered the 'coldest time on the bike is in the dark' part.

So, you have another switch that allows one grip at a time?

I do have an electrex coil, but also am running 2x35 watters in an aftermarket headlamp shell. Could easily run 2x25s. For whatever reason the 25s are considerably more expensive than the 35s. An additional switch would probably do if I used the 25s. The oem front shell (1x35) would work kinda/sorta with the 'separate' grip switch option. The grip heaters are close to 40 watts!

An SPDT diagram is attached. It will NOT work.

 

[cfr1970]

CC,

Check your e-mail. I have a drawing for you.