I got an '05 yz250 and I have stretched striped more bolts then all my last bikes combined. So far I've stretched a front axel pinch bolt, 2 fork clamp bolt and stiped the head of the oil drain plug yesterday! I've been replacing them with Honda bolts and have no problems with them. And it's not like I'm cranking down on them. I went out and bought a torque wrench that measures from 5-75 ft/lbs for the forks and i'm streching the bolts before it even clicks on 14 ft/lbs! It seems like Yamaha used cheap bolts to cut down on the weight of these bikes.
Yamaha hardware = crap?
- Thread starter Casper250
- Start date
The YZ hardware has stunk for years. However, it is good enough. The torque wrench is meant to torque fasteners that are dry. When they get oil on them, such as an oil drain plug, all bets are off.
I rately torque anything anymore and destroy far less bolts in the process.
I rately torque anything anymore and destroy far less bolts in the process.
Try using a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench calibrated in INCH/POUNDS for more precision, and you will have fewer problems.
When not using a torque wrench, be sure to use 1/4 inch drive hand tools on all of the small hardware, 3/8 inch drive is overkill on these parts.
When not using a torque wrench, be sure to use 1/4 inch drive hand tools on all of the small hardware, 3/8 inch drive is overkill on these parts.
bclapham
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Nov 5, 2001
- 4,340
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use a "nut driver" (screwdriver with a 8 or 10 mm socket on) or a 1/4in drive socket. you cant get much leverage, so its difficult to over tighten.
also, on the oil drain, use a fresh aluminum washer every other oil change. ACE sells them i think, and it will save you from cracking the cases.
also, on the oil drain, use a fresh aluminum washer every other oil change. ACE sells them i think, and it will save you from cracking the cases.
- Nov 7, 2001
- 1,234
- 0
I had the same feeling with the Yamahas I've owned. I usually kept a few common bolts in the garage for the inevitable stripped bolt the day before a ride.
KTM and Honda seem to have better hardware in my experience.
KTM and Honda seem to have better hardware in my experience.
no problems with mine or the one before or the one before that.
I have had my 05's wheels, forks , shock, triple clamp, bars, clutch, water pump , carb, seat/tank/subframe/airbox, top end, swingarm all off of the bike and not one issue with fasteners/hardware. It is 6 months old.
I have had my 05's wheels, forks , shock, triple clamp, bars, clutch, water pump , carb, seat/tank/subframe/airbox, top end, swingarm all off of the bike and not one issue with fasteners/hardware. It is 6 months old.
crazyYammi
Member
- Aug 31, 2004
- 89
- 0
For bolts where torque isn't that important I use blue loctite and only tighten them a bit. Now I don't strip anything and they don't rattle out.
Harware doesn't seem any better or worse than my suzuki.
Harware doesn't seem any better or worse than my suzuki.
Solid State
Member
- Mar 9, 2001
- 492
- 0
I had the same issue when using the torque wrench with my Yamaha. Their hardware will strip out just before the rated torque - especially if the bolt/nut has any lubricant at all (even machine oil from manufacture). If you get any grease on the bolt (like around axles) forget it - it will strip.
My advice is to ditch the torque wrench and use the blue Lock-Tite or spray the hardware down with solvent and dry with compressed air, then torque to just under the rated amount.
Good luck.
My advice is to ditch the torque wrench and use the blue Lock-Tite or spray the hardware down with solvent and dry with compressed air, then torque to just under the rated amount.
Good luck.
xcracer725
Member
- Jun 2, 2004
- 187
- 0
whats BTW mean? sounds stupid but i always wondered, and does imo mean in most opinions
Honda/Yamaha fasteners seem the same to me. I always use the torque wrench because I can't tell the difference between 10-20 lbs by hand and I'd prefer that things like axle/fork pinch bolts be tight enough.
Key is clean the oil off the threads if you are going to torque them to spec. I always reduce the oil drain plug by 25-40% just because you can't get the oil off. I only use loctite on shim stack nuts. The other nuts/bolts come apart too frequently and I hear loctite is abrasive and wears out the threads. It is also a lubricant when wet and can contribute to stripped fasteners/threads.
Had a Honda subframe bolt stretch the other day trying to get 20lbs. Had a slight trace of WD40 on it and that is all it took.
Key is clean the oil off the threads if you are going to torque them to spec. I always reduce the oil drain plug by 25-40% just because you can't get the oil off. I only use loctite on shim stack nuts. The other nuts/bolts come apart too frequently and I hear loctite is abrasive and wears out the threads. It is also a lubricant when wet and can contribute to stripped fasteners/threads.
Had a Honda subframe bolt stretch the other day trying to get 20lbs. Had a slight trace of WD40 on it and that is all it took.
Maybe it's the torque wrenches your using? Our garage currently has 2-2003 KX250's, '02 YZF426, '02 YZ250, '92 Frankenstein'ed together DR350/'435', etc. I've yet to have one problem with any of the hardware equipped on these bikes from normal tightening and use of the torque wrench. The complaint I have of our Yamaha's is the angle the drain plug goes in at on the YZ250 as well as the 12mm bolt size (Kawi uses a 14mm). I also dislike the phillips head screws used to secure the ignition cover (fixed once the E-Line was bolted up). We also replaced all of the radiator shroud hardware when the bike was new to captured washer 10mm bolts instead. I still haven't striped any bolts on either of our Yammi's. The KX's I feel come with excellent hardware (at least our '03s did) since I didn't feel the need to upgrade any of the hardware. I use the torque wrench alot. I have several to pick from but my favorite one is a Snap-on with a digital read out. It is the most accurate one I've ever used. I find it hard to believe that you are capable of snapping so many bolts. Are you making sure the threads are clean? (no dirt, grit, etc.) Getting a better, more accurate torque wrench is the only other I can think of besides visiting a good hardware store and purchasing replacement hardware.
slideways11
Sponsoring Member
- Apr 18, 2000
- 411
- 0
The following will give you some idea of the effect of lubrication on torque values.
20wt. oil decrease torque by38%
40wt oil decrease by 41%
white grease decrease by 45%
Always clean your nuts and bolts before reassembly use a good torque wrench and some common sense and you will rarely strip or stretch a bolt.
20wt. oil decrease torque by38%
40wt oil decrease by 41%
white grease decrease by 45%
Always clean your nuts and bolts before reassembly use a good torque wrench and some common sense and you will rarely strip or stretch a bolt.
It's not a fair statement, I've had no problems with my YZ, but the KX had a siezed chain tensioner bolt.
I don't go ribbing Kawi, I know it is neglect. In your case there might have been an over zelest assembler at the place of purchase. It's one of the services we have to pay for when we buy a new bike. :(
I don't go ribbing Kawi, I know it is neglect. In your case there might have been an over zelest assembler at the place of purchase. It's one of the services we have to pay for when we buy a new bike. :(
