'03 KDX Brakes - What are pins?

[TVRider]

I have seen several threads referring to pins on the brakes of the KDX. What exactly are these? I bought a service manual and went through the brake section and didn't see any reference to pins. It sounds like they have a tendency to get frozen so while my bike is new I though I would remove them and put some never seize on them.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[tedkxkdx]

The service manual from Kawi calls them "pad bolts". I change mine out after about every brake pad change. They get divots from where the brake pad was being suspended on the pin. That causes premature wear on new brake pads because the pad cannot slide freely on the pin.

 

[canyncarvr]

A good idea....no, a great idea!

The pins are the...well, pins that hold the pads in the caliper. The front caliper has a little cover over the pin, the rear is just a couple of allens. They are referred to as 'hangers' in the parts breakdown.

Yep! Neverseize 'em now!

++edit++
I've not had 'divot' problems with mine, and I'm on pad set #5 or so. Each time I take them out, I clean them with steel wool. If there is any corrosion buildup, I scrape that off first. The pins aren't worn at all. More likely (sez me) would be damage to the pin head when you're trying to unweld the things from the caliper cuz you didn't use a neverseize compound on 'em.

The do tend to get a bit hot! ;)

....man...pictures and everything! That's pretty dang cool!!

pat-pat-pat.....

 

[TVRider]

Thanks guys, I'll run home and do it right now before the seize! :laugh: Seriously, thanks for the input.

CC,
Just to change the subject, I put in the CEL needle you sent on clip #3. Now it seems to have bigger mid hit, but my low end is bogging. They probably aren't related but I haven't had a chance to ride other than in street in front of the house. I can't do too much of that. I'll let you know after I get out for a decent ride.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[canyncarvr]

AS AS AS ! Don't forget the AS!

Note the CEL at 2.705 is quite a bit richer than an 1173 @ 2.735.

Or..you have the 1174? I fergit. Anyway, it's richer than either of 'em.

I never tried the CEL with a stock TV (cut to 5mm). My 'C' 'spearmints were with a 6 &/or 7mm cutaway.

Point was not to name the CEL as the needle you need, but to give you an idea of the different 'attitudes' available via a needle change. The 'hit' you mention is part of it.

Give clip-4 a try, too.

 

[TVRider]

Yeah, I figured it was an AS issue, I just haven't had time to play with it.

RE: CEL, I kinda understood that is was just something to play with, but wouldn't clip-4 be even richer? I'm just a novice at this jetting stuff. :o Are you suggesting that once my main is right that a little richer needle might be a good thing, or is it just something to play with? My natural tendency was to try clip-2. Oh, I have so much to learn!! :confused:

 

[canyncarvr]

Once your main is right, it is.....right, that is.

Changing the clip position, taper (the change to a 'C') and L1 (the 'E' is 38.15) will change everything else! ;)

So, yeah...'something to play with' works. Once you get a feel for what part of the carb effects what part of the performance curve, you'll have a better idea of which direction to 'play' in.

My CEK on clip 3 ran pretty good. JD was curious what clip 4 would do. THAT sounded the wrong way to me....I tried it cuz he knows what he's doing.

It worked better! AND..the bottom end was still ok cuz even with a shorter L1, the steeper º allowed for the taper start to still be in the needle jet.

I've tried a few needles/clips and throttle valves. I've never had as good a bottom end result as with the CEK. But...but...it's two 'clips' shorter on L1 than the oem 'N'!! How can that be?

Because of the 2.515 'magic number' (we've discussed already)..and what a steeper º does to the taper start.

Cool, huh?

So...certainly don't be afraid to try 'stuff'. Even if you know (you think) what will happen, try it anyway. Until you actually experience the result, don't assume what it will be. Leave that to the people that have done it enough to REALLY know what will happen..people like JD, RR and EG.

The rest of us mere mortals can just dink with stuff until we get it right!

 

[tedkxkdx]

Canyncarvr, what brand pins are u using. I tried moose pins and they divoted after the first set. albeit I was running nasty wintery, muddy hare scrambles in England. After my departure from that to my sx track in the dry and not so muddy, I was able to get a set of brake pads to last one year and the pins show little signs of divoting.
I.E. the more mud and water you put your bike through the more maintenance is required.

 

[canyncarvr]

I haven't replaced the oem pins. No divots, no wear, work fine.

And that's with riding most every weekend the first couple years...less the last year. I wouldn't call myself a fairy weather rider...but dumping buckets with snow @ 3000'el. isn't my idea of a good time.

This being the wettest year in the past six, there's been a lotta that goin' on.

Point is, this bike spends a lot of time getting the he-dubl-ll beat out of it...not sitting in the garage.

Maybe you're just too dang fast (and thus hit the brakes too dang hard!! ;)

 

[tedkxkdx]

Yeah too fast. I don't think so. If I start thinking that some kid will put me to shame on his 85cc. May have been the cupped-out back disc originally on the bike at purchase. Since I changed to the solid rotor I have not really been bothered by it. Or it is the highly damaging English mud or MUCK as they call it here.