cylinder sleeve installation

[slapshot1540]

can anyone just roughly walk me through installing a cylinder sleeve?

 

[Rich Rohrich]

This isn't a job you do at home.

 

[slapshot1540]

im aware of that i have a machine shop

 

[Rich Rohrich]

It's still not a job for a novice. Send it to a professional.

 

[helio lucas]

if you want to see how the professional do it check la sleeve web site. ;)

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

If you have the equipment, then you should have the knowledge that replating is a lot better choice than sleeves? Course you could market power now, spark enhancers and unobtainable power bands?

 

[mas2de]

All I know is the whole setup needs to be heated (Don't know what to), the old sleeve pressed out and the new one pressed in while its still hot. If you're trying to do this type of thing for a living, try asking a professional from out of the area to teach you.(they'd be more likely to teach you than someone you might be competing with) But I would still send it off to a pro as Rich recomends. Peace of mind etc.

 

[slapshot1540]

If you have the equipment, then you should have the knowledge that replating is a lot better choice than sleeves? Course you could market power now, spark enhancers and unobtainable power bands?

what?

 

[helio lucas]

:rotfl:

 

[Ol'89r]

It's still not a job for a novice. Send it to a professional.

Very true statement. :cool:

But, since you asked and you have the equipment.....

Chuck your cylinder up in your handy dandy home boring bar and bore the cylinder out to a few thousands under the OD of the new sleeve. The sleeve must have an interference fit and the exact figures will be supplied with the new sleeve if you use a LA sleeve.

After the cylinder is bored to the proper size, scribe a line on the side of the sleeve that lines up with the edge of one of the ports. Then scribe a line on the top of the cylinder that also lines up with the same port in the cylinder. This will help to align the ports correctly.

Heat the cylinder and chill the sleeve in a freezer. After the cylinder is heated and the sleeve is chilled, take the sleeve and cylinder over to your 20 ton hydraulic press and line up the lines that you scribed on the cylinder and sleeve and press the sleeve in. Some use red LockTite on the sleeve, some just press it in.

Then take your porting tools and match the ports in the sleeve with the ports in the cylinder. Be sure to bevel the edges of the ports so that the rings don't catch on the sharp edges.

Once the ports are matched, chuck the cylinder up in the boring bar again and bore it to size to fit the piston. Then finish hone it with your hone. Go back with your porting tools and make sure the edges of the ports are beveled being careful not to touch the freshly bored and honed cylinder surface.

That is the procedure for a straight sleeve. Some sleeves have a register on the top to keep them from slipping in the cylinder. If your sleeve has a register or lip, you will have to machine an area in the cylinder to accept the register.

Pretty simple stuff.

All you need is a boring bar, a mill, a press, a hone, porting tools and a little time.

Or you could send it to a pro. ;)

 

[Someone]

Send it to Ol'89r. :)

 

[slapshot1540]

Very true statement. :cool:

But, since you asked and you have the equipment.....

Chuck your cylinder up in your handy dandy home boring bar and bore the cylinder out to a few thousands under the OD of the new sleeve. The sleeve must have an interference fit and the exact figures will be supplied with the new sleeve if you use a LA sleeve.

After the cylinder is bored to the proper size, scribe a line on the side of the sleeve that lines up with the edge of one of the ports. Then scribe a line on the top of the cylinder that also lines up with the same port in the cylinder. This will help to align the ports correctly.

Heat the cylinder and chill the sleeve in a freezer. After the cylinder is heated and the sleeve is chilled, take the sleeve and cylinder over to your 20 ton hydraulic press and line up the lines that you scribed on the cylinder and sleeve and press the sleeve in. Some use red LockTite on the sleeve, some just press it in.

Then take your porting tools and match the ports in the sleeve with the ports in the cylinder. Be sure to bevel the edges of the ports so that the rings don't catch on the sharp edges.

Once the ports are matched, chuck the cylinder up in the boring bar again and bore it to size to fit the piston. Then finish hone it with your hone. Go back with your porting tools and make sure the edges of the ports are beveled being careful not to touch the freshly bored and honed cylinder surface.

That is the procedure for a straight sleeve. Some sleeves have a register on the top to keep them from slipping in the cylinder. If your sleeve has a register or lip, you will have to machine an area in the cylinder to accept the register.

Pretty simple stuff.

All you need is a boring bar, a mill, a press, a hone, porting tools and a little time.

Or you could send it to a pro. ;)

thanks alot

 

[julien_d]

Like mentioned previously, if your bike is newer than mid-late 80's, the cylinder is likely an electroplated aluminum bore. You can still sleeve these, but plating is far superior as far as wear characteristics and heat transfer. Replating runs about $175 from uschrome, millenium tech, or similar shops equipped to do plating, and will last you a lot longer than an iron sleeve without needing to be honed or bored again.

Ol89'r, that was a really great post. :nod: Nice of you to take the time to explain all that to him. Wanna sleeve a cylinder for me? lol.

J.