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Lowering The seat hight on my KTM

Bonehead

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#1
I did the forks and shock on my 520 and now I can't touch the ground . I saw a post way back when and now I can't find it.

I need to know how to cut the sub frame

It's a good thing it has the button or I would have to stop next to a stump to start it. Now I just stop next to a stump or rock to stop.

Short Guy On An Open Bike



00 520 EXC
00 380 EXC
 

Patman

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#3
I believe Team KTM takes about 1cm from the bottom lateral which lowers the back of the seat close to 1 inch (scraching head):think . You might try cutting the foam down with an electric knife I'd bet you could get close to 2" if you were really aggressive with it.

Maybe if you started eating about a dozen Krispy Kream 's each morning and put on say 40 pounds you could sack out the suspension another inch or two. ;)
 
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Bonehead

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#6
Thanks guys But I'm not sure if you cut the top or the bottom . If I cut the bottom, I have to move the mounting hole and nut ,I think I might need to cut the top?? not a problem for me to cut the top ,I'm a fabricator by trade.

BUY THE WAY Two springs stiffer in the front and one in the back this thing rides like an XR250 (Also did some valving)

00 520 exc
00 380 exc
 
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#7
about 1.5 inches above the bottom mounting hole you cut out 3-5mm of
tube than weld the tube back together.
Tig weld it.
This way all you are doing is rocking the subframe downward.
Watch your air box and carb flange if the air box rubs the shock that is not good and you don't want a bind on the flange to carb.
I have seen some serious holes worn through the air box between the flange and filter after too much was taken off the sub frame tube.
Some guys I know didn't like the lower seat after they cut the sub frame down.
They went back to running more sag front and rear and raising the fork tubes in the clamps.
I ride a 520 and I am 195 pounds 5.8 open A mx and I have last years pds spring on the shock which is revalved for more high speed comp and rebound.
The forks are stock valving with the air camber at 140mm and 1.5 turns out from 0 preload. 12 on comp and 14 on rebound .
For me the bike settles good and I can hold it up.
If the seat is too low towards the back or the sag is unbalanced from the front than as you probably know the bike will not turn as good.
I am on my 5th ktm since 98 and I get a new one every year.
We have a track here on our property that has everything on it
and we have done just about everything conceivable to the KTMs from the minis to the big bores. Suspension wise.
Mike weisner who was a factory KTM wrench for Kelly Smith has shed allot or light on the PDS system and made my shocks work better than the guys that
charged me an arm and a leg.
You really should be able to get your feet on the ground with set up before cutting your subframe.
 
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#8
Does removing 3-5mm from the subframe affect the fender, seat, or exhaust mounting?

Is there still plenty of clearance for the tire when the suspension is fully compressed?

Does anyone sell a seat with less foam to make the seat heigt lower?

Does anyone have experience removing some of the foam from the original seat?
 
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#9
Remove the shock and let the bike set all the way down.
In stock form there is allot of room between the tire and fender when the suspension is completely compressed.
As far as the exhaust it will not bind and the fender will be in the same possition as always because it is attached to the subframe.
The seat will be a little harder to get on at first but it will contour to the change after a while.It is only at the tank it becomes snug.
It will go .
The main thing to worry about is the shock and airbox relation.
When the spring is compressed it will bow a certain amount and rub
on the air box boot to the carb. Also watch the top portion of the boot where it clamps to the carb. I have seen them pop off after a hard landing
because of the increased pull due to lowering the subframe. Each bike is a little different there so yours may not be effected.
 
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#10
I did the subframe lowering on my 400EXC AND did additional lowering with sag and moving up the fork tubes. This helped me a lot in the technical stuff where my lack of skill required a lot of dabbing. I did have to make a little bracket to get my silencer to mount back up becuase the holes were no longer aligned.
 
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#11
shaving the saddle

i have alot of experience with lowering the seat height iam also horizontally challenged.iam only 5'2 and i ride a 125 .the best way to shave the seat down is to mark how much you would like to remove from the top,with a marker the use really coarse sand paper like 36 grit then smooth out with finer grades.works excellent and you won't have knife marks like using a electric knife you work with sand paper without taking to much off at a time. also you have to remeber while shaving the seat down you will be changing the seat to footpeg distance when sitting on the bike that has the sseat cut.
 

Jaybird

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#12
You really should be able to get your feet on the ground with set up before cutting your subframe.
If a person has a 30 inch inseam, when the bike is set up spot-on..I garantee you he can't touch flat footed. Your sag set-up should never be altered just to accomidate your shortness. Cut the seat, lower the sub-frame and then if it's still too tall, mount a spacer on the shock.
I think Jeremy has recommended the latter first.

I think Skin Ind. sells a freeride flat saddle foam for the KTM's.
 
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Jaybird

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#15
If you have a 30 inch inseam and the stock KTM seat and proper race sag, you cannot touch the ground. Try telling that to someone who doesn't know better. Tippy toe maybe :)

A shock spacer will restrict the rebound of the shock travel. Jeremy claims it will not effect the perfomrance of the shock.
 
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