So I got this 95 cr250 and its my first bike and I don't know anything about bikes. It takes a while to kick start and then when it does it dies even with choke on, It blows a lot of smoke out the back and seems to have some oil leak at the back of the exhaust. Can anyone help please. running a 32:1
Need help please
- Thread starter ra4MaGz
- Start date
Ol'89r
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- Jan 27, 2000
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Could be several things causing the problem. Do you know the history of the bike? Has it been rebuilt? If not, it could need new rings or a piston. Possibly a bad crank seal or weak reeds in the reed valve. Might even be clogged jets in the carb. Buy yourself a service manual for your bike and read it through a couple of times. It will give you a better idea of what you are dealing with and show you how to check these things. :cool:
High Lord Gomer
Poked with Sticks
- Sep 26, 1999
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Sounds like it might be running too rich. Have you tried to start/run it with the choke off?
Normally bikes tend to run leaner in cold weather, not richer. Where are you?
Has the bike changed elevation much? When you take a bike from sea level to higher altitudes you need to change the jetting to leaner settings.
Normally bikes tend to run leaner in cold weather, not richer. Where are you?
Has the bike changed elevation much? When you take a bike from sea level to higher altitudes you need to change the jetting to leaner settings.
Ol'89r
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 27, 2000
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I would start by cleaning out the jets in the carb. Then check your reeds. Remove the reed block and make sure the reeds are sitting tight against the reed block. If you can see daylight between the reeds and the reed block, replace the reeds. A bad crank seal could be the problem. If the right side seal is bad it will cause the bike to smoke excessivly and drip spooge (Oil) out of the pipe. Your new manual will show you where these part are and how to replace them.
High Lord Gomer
Poked with Sticks
- Sep 26, 1999
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Another possibility could be that the floats aren't set right and fuel could be filing up the bottom end. I would try turning the gas on for just 5 or 10 seconds, turning it off, then starting the bike. It may take a while to clear out whatever gas may have flooded the engine, though.
89R is right about getting a manual. He's not too current on the newer 2 strokes, though. Back when he was racing regular they were still running the older, 1 stroke bikes. We've even got some pictures of him on some half and quarter stroke bikes. :p
89R is right about getting a manual. He's not too current on the newer 2 strokes, though. Back when he was racing regular they were still running the older, 1 stroke bikes. We've even got some pictures of him on some half and quarter stroke bikes. :p
Make sure you have fresh gas too. Gomer can help with that :p
- Thread starter
- #9
I live in Souther California so the weather isn't too bad. I'm not really mechanicly inclined and this is my first bike so I honestly have no idea what I'm doing haha. It's got new gas with a 32:1 mix ratio in the tank. It will not stay on longer than 5 seconds without me hitting some throttle (with or without the choke).
Can anyone tell me where I can get my hands on a good manual for a 95 Cr250?
Can anyone tell me where I can get my hands on a good manual for a 95 Cr250?
dirt bike dave
Sponsoring Member
- May 3, 2000
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Buy a new spark plug and put it in. My old CR used an NGK BR8ES, but check to make sure that is right for you.
Pump premium fuel should be fine. Use that instead of regular octane.
Some bikes are hard starters. With the new spark plug in, here is a starting drill that works on most two strokes:
Turn the gas and the choke on and lay the bike on its side for 5 - 10 seconds. You want gas running strongly out the overflow tubes to the carb.
Stand the bike up. Keep the throttle closed. Move the kickstarter GENTLY though its stroke twice, to prime the cylinder.
Then find top dead center by gently pushing the kickstarter until you feel the the compression get harder. Just as the compression begins to ease, you are at top dead center. (Finding TDC will let the piston get up maximum speed before the next compression stroke)
Return the kick starter to the top and KICK as hard as you can (careful not to bang your shin on the foot peg). For most bikes, DO NOT turn the throttle open AT ALL when cold. You can even put your right hand on crossbar or master cylinder to prevent you from twisting the throttle.
If no go, find TDC and try again. Some bikes do want a TINY bit of throttle on cold start (like 1/16 open, no more than 1/8 open).
As mentioned before, bad gas, worn rings or reeds can make cold starting very difficult, even if you master the drill.
Most two strokes will smoke a bunch on cold start, but the smoke should get much less after you get it up to operating temperature.
Good luck!
Pump premium fuel should be fine. Use that instead of regular octane.
Some bikes are hard starters. With the new spark plug in, here is a starting drill that works on most two strokes:
Turn the gas and the choke on and lay the bike on its side for 5 - 10 seconds. You want gas running strongly out the overflow tubes to the carb.
Stand the bike up. Keep the throttle closed. Move the kickstarter GENTLY though its stroke twice, to prime the cylinder.
Then find top dead center by gently pushing the kickstarter until you feel the the compression get harder. Just as the compression begins to ease, you are at top dead center. (Finding TDC will let the piston get up maximum speed before the next compression stroke)
Return the kick starter to the top and KICK as hard as you can (careful not to bang your shin on the foot peg). For most bikes, DO NOT turn the throttle open AT ALL when cold. You can even put your right hand on crossbar or master cylinder to prevent you from twisting the throttle.
If no go, find TDC and try again. Some bikes do want a TINY bit of throttle on cold start (like 1/16 open, no more than 1/8 open).
As mentioned before, bad gas, worn rings or reeds can make cold starting very difficult, even if you master the drill.
Most two strokes will smoke a bunch on cold start, but the smoke should get much less after you get it up to operating temperature.
Good luck!
High Lord Gomer
Poked with Sticks
- Sep 26, 1999
- 11,790
- 34
Doesn't sound too bad but you won't learn anything from someone else doing it.
Gaskets have a life span too :)
I would recommend a compression test. If you don't know much about bikes the manual is a good way to start. You need tools to work on your bike and a compression tester is a useful tool to have. A good, relatively new top end should make about 200PSI on a 250 2 stroke. Below 180 and I would rebuild.
On a used bike better have a look into the cylinder before taking a word of a previous owner, specially in regards to recently done a top end. That story almost every seller has in his/her repertoire.
I would recommend a compression test. If you don't know much about bikes the manual is a good way to start. You need tools to work on your bike and a compression tester is a useful tool to have. A good, relatively new top end should make about 200PSI on a 250 2 stroke. Below 180 and I would rebuild.
On a used bike better have a look into the cylinder before taking a word of a previous owner, specially in regards to recently done a top end. That story almost every seller has in his/her repertoire.
dirt bike dave
Sponsoring Member
- May 3, 2000
- 5,349
- 3
To me, it looks like spooge has oozed out from around the exhaust pipe, staining the cylinder and cases, and making a sticky mess that just doesn't clean off easy.
Pretty common not to have a perfect seal at the pipe, and to have oil residue ooze out. If that's what it is, it won't effect performance noticeably.
Pretty common not to have a perfect seal at the pipe, and to have oil residue ooze out. If that's what it is, it won't effect performance noticeably.
rmc_olderthandirt
~SPONSOR~
- Apr 18, 2006
- 1,533
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A two stroke drips oil out the exhaust. It is the way two strokes mark their territory.
Like others said, try it with a new sparkplug.
That is not unusual. Is the only problem that it won't idle? If you attempt to ride it, can you open it up and have it run strong?
Did these problems just start happening, or did you get the bike in this condition?
If the bike used to run OK and suddenly started having issues I would be suspicious that it has lost compression. A compression test would be a good idea, or if it has been a long time since the top end was rebuilt I would just bite the bullet and refresh it.
If the compression is Ok then it is highly likely that the carburetor is either gummed up or simply not jetted right. Both are likely.
Any engine with a gravity fed fuel system can easily have the carburetor gummed up. What happens is that gas in the float bowl will evaporate, or at least most of it does. There is a little stuff left over that doesn't evaporate. On a fuel system fed by a fuel pump you get one bowl full and it is done. On a gravity fed system you can distill the entire gas tank down to a float bowl puddle of goop. This goop likes to clog jets, and it is the smaller jets (idle) that get gooped up the easiest.
If this is the problem, then removing the carburetor, complete disassembly (especially important to remove all the jets) and cleaning will usually solve the problem. Poking a fine wire through the jets may be required to clean out any hardened goop.
If your bike will eventually start running OK once it has been warmed up it might just be an issue of proper jetting. It amazes me how many bikes are just plain jetted wrong from the factory. Of the 6 bikes I have owned, only one had decent jetting when I got it. Two of my bikes, a Yamaha ttr-125 and a Honda CRF250x, were so incredibly cold blooded that it was painful to keep them running until they warmed up. Start, run 5 seconds, die. Repeat about 100 times.
In both cases, I bought a jetting kit from JD jetting and they transformed into easy starting machines.
Bottom line: Cange the spark plug, do a compression test, clean the carb.
Rod
Like others said, try it with a new sparkplug.
ra4MaGz said:
That is not unusual. Is the only problem that it won't idle? If you attempt to ride it, can you open it up and have it run strong?
Did these problems just start happening, or did you get the bike in this condition?
If the bike used to run OK and suddenly started having issues I would be suspicious that it has lost compression. A compression test would be a good idea, or if it has been a long time since the top end was rebuilt I would just bite the bullet and refresh it.
If the compression is Ok then it is highly likely that the carburetor is either gummed up or simply not jetted right. Both are likely.
Any engine with a gravity fed fuel system can easily have the carburetor gummed up. What happens is that gas in the float bowl will evaporate, or at least most of it does. There is a little stuff left over that doesn't evaporate. On a fuel system fed by a fuel pump you get one bowl full and it is done. On a gravity fed system you can distill the entire gas tank down to a float bowl puddle of goop. This goop likes to clog jets, and it is the smaller jets (idle) that get gooped up the easiest.
If this is the problem, then removing the carburetor, complete disassembly (especially important to remove all the jets) and cleaning will usually solve the problem. Poking a fine wire through the jets may be required to clean out any hardened goop.
If your bike will eventually start running OK once it has been warmed up it might just be an issue of proper jetting. It amazes me how many bikes are just plain jetted wrong from the factory. Of the 6 bikes I have owned, only one had decent jetting when I got it. Two of my bikes, a Yamaha ttr-125 and a Honda CRF250x, were so incredibly cold blooded that it was painful to keep them running until they warmed up. Start, run 5 seconds, die. Repeat about 100 times.
In both cases, I bought a jetting kit from JD jetting and they transformed into easy starting machines.
Bottom line: Cange the spark plug, do a compression test, clean the carb.
Rod
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