If you look real close, you should see it, start at the front side of the carb and follow the ducting to the case.
To get at it, you must first pull the carb (you can let it dangle), then the intake manifold running down to the case. The manifold is held by 4 phillips machine screws. You'll have an easier time if you pull the tank first, but this can be done without pulling the whole motor.
If you are replacing the reeds with Boyeson, be prepared to adjust the carb, or it won't run. Start with the air screw (very near the airbox) before you even touch the main. If I remember you have to go up one on the needle as well, but I haven't done this in 3-4 years.
Box 1 is the reed block. The actual stock reed is a thin sheet of metal. Parts 4&5 are a pair of screws and washers that hold the reed in place. Part 6 is more of a brace and is about 1"x1/4". Part 2 is the reed, and 3 is the reed stop that keeps the reed from bending too much. If you are careful, you can re-use the gaskets (7&8). When switching to the Boyeson, you replace 2 with two separate pieces, make sure the one with the holes is nearer the carb when installed. I think 3 is also replaced, but I can't remember. Once you have the Boyeson in hand, and get into the intake, you should see what I'm talking about, then all will be clear. Once installed, adjust the air screw in 1/4 turn increments until it starts then fine tune it. Then move on the the needle. I think you can get away with the stock main jet, which is too rich when stock.
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