My tire is getting rounded off pretty good, a little too much on the road I guess, but it's too tough to avoid. Anyway, a friend of mine said you should just reseat the tire the other way around, so the sharp lip of the tread would be biting the dirt, but I wasn't sure if that would work right, since the tire might not be made for that. Also, for a dirtbike do you need to have the tire beads broken with a tool and then resealed the same way, or can you do it like a bicycle by just deflating the tire to get it off and inflating to get it back on. But is it a good idea to get some more life out of the tire to swap it around.
Reversing a tire
- Thread starter jaypro55
- Start date
Jay you need to be sure the tire is not a directional tire, if it's not then you should have no problem breaking it down and changing the tire, very simple. Your going to loose a tad in brake efficiency, but who uses the brakes anyway. FYI, good tires are not expensive.
- Nov 13, 2001
- 1,178
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I went to a Pirelli MT32 rear and have fell in love with it. After 5 rides with the new tire it is barely showing any wear. It rips up great in soft terrian with the long pointy knobs. Best tire I have used....I don't reverse my sprockets because I feel it is much better and safer to just replace them when they show good wear.
- Thread starter
- #9
I didn't mean to go that far with it, I meant to rotate it around before you noticed that, and do it once every few months, I figured it would just make it last a little longer. Although when I do have to get a new one I'm just going to go for a stock steel one, I don't figure that the $50 aluminum sprockets hold up too much better.
- Nov 7, 2001
- 1,234
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Tire: yes
Sprocket: no
Sprocket: no
kciH
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 28, 2002
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You won't likely gain anything by reversing the sprocket, if it is possible. On my bike the sprocket is tapered on the outside and the bolts are tapered to fit into only one side of the sprocket.
Changing the tire does not require any special tools except 2 or 3 tire irons, some talcum powder or wd-40 to lube the tire when removing and reinstalling ( I use the WD), a vavle core remover, and a good list of curse words to use while doing it. I strongly advise having a spare tube on hand when doing this as it is quite easy to pinch the tube while reinstalling the tire. You have to be careful not to pinch it and it's a good idea to have a spare tube if you don't already. Oh, I almost forgot, you'll have an easier job if you have a air compressor on hand.
Changing the tire does not require any special tools except 2 or 3 tire irons, some talcum powder or wd-40 to lube the tire when removing and reinstalling ( I use the WD), a vavle core remover, and a good list of curse words to use while doing it. I strongly advise having a spare tube on hand when doing this as it is quite easy to pinch the tube while reinstalling the tire. You have to be careful not to pinch it and it's a good idea to have a spare tube if you don't already. Oh, I almost forgot, you'll have an easier job if you have a air compressor on hand.
Hi JayPro,
If you can reverse your sprocket every so often (I can't due to the tapered holes also) and you have the motivation to try it , GO FOR IT. before the teeth start to hook of course. At least you are thinking for yourself. Keep data so we might all benefit from your findings.
I've changed 3 rears and 1 front tire in the last year. The front was very easy, the back, well, as long as you follow the directions, you'll be ok. I suggest a search, or get a step by step somewhere. (maybe Eric Gore's Handbook)
I don't think pinching the tube is a real big risk as long as you keep your mind on it every time you insert the tire iron, screwdriver, crowbar (all 3 in my case) a helper will make things easier as well, just to hold the irons and make fun of you while you are too involved for good comebacks :) Also be careful not to bend your rotor or sprocket in the process.
IMO soapy water is a must on the rear bead, not only to slip it over the rim, but to get it to seat as well. I usually have to inflate the rear to about 20-25 psi before it pops out, then just bleed it down, the 1st time, I tried motor oil and it kept drying out too quickly. Talcum powder on the tube is a nice touch, if you use it, make sure to dry out the inside of the tire (you know, from the soapy water). also, a little air in the tube before you put it in seems to help it right into place.
I'm going to reverse the rear this week for the first time. I can't stand looking at all those sharp edges on the wrong end getting a free ride. I've been told braking will suffer, but if that is true and rear braking was anywhere near as forceful as accelleration, then why doesn't the other side round off????? Hey, maybe once I reverse the tire, it will re-sharpen the original rounded edges. ')_~
A friend of mine said he used to cut the knobs short w/ a sharp knife to put a new edge on the tire. Said it worked well. Maybe I'll try that too, although I don't think I have time for it right now. I'd probably be making a trip to the E.R. carrying my thumb in an ice filled bag before the 7th knob.
Happy Roosting,
Joe Chief
If you can reverse your sprocket every so often (I can't due to the tapered holes also) and you have the motivation to try it , GO FOR IT. before the teeth start to hook of course. At least you are thinking for yourself. Keep data so we might all benefit from your findings.
I've changed 3 rears and 1 front tire in the last year. The front was very easy, the back, well, as long as you follow the directions, you'll be ok. I suggest a search, or get a step by step somewhere. (maybe Eric Gore's Handbook)
I don't think pinching the tube is a real big risk as long as you keep your mind on it every time you insert the tire iron, screwdriver, crowbar (all 3 in my case) a helper will make things easier as well, just to hold the irons and make fun of you while you are too involved for good comebacks :) Also be careful not to bend your rotor or sprocket in the process.
IMO soapy water is a must on the rear bead, not only to slip it over the rim, but to get it to seat as well. I usually have to inflate the rear to about 20-25 psi before it pops out, then just bleed it down, the 1st time, I tried motor oil and it kept drying out too quickly. Talcum powder on the tube is a nice touch, if you use it, make sure to dry out the inside of the tire (you know, from the soapy water). also, a little air in the tube before you put it in seems to help it right into place.
I'm going to reverse the rear this week for the first time. I can't stand looking at all those sharp edges on the wrong end getting a free ride. I've been told braking will suffer, but if that is true and rear braking was anywhere near as forceful as accelleration, then why doesn't the other side round off????? Hey, maybe once I reverse the tire, it will re-sharpen the original rounded edges. ')_~
A friend of mine said he used to cut the knobs short w/ a sharp knife to put a new edge on the tire. Said it worked well. Maybe I'll try that too, although I don't think I have time for it right now. I'd probably be making a trip to the E.R. carrying my thumb in an ice filled bag before the 7th knob.
Happy Roosting,
Joe Chief
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Jasle
Sponsoring Member
- Nov 27, 2001
- 1,358
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Not sure about reversing the tire because a good tire for my sons bike is only $30. Our sprokets are made so they only work one way. I have seen some get them reversed and they toss the chain straight away.
Also the Aluminum alloy sprokets are VERY much worth their money. Ours last longer. if you don't mind the weight gain the stainless ones last almost forever but tehy are pricey.
Jason
Also the Aluminum alloy sprokets are VERY much worth their money. Ours last longer. if you don't mind the weight gain the stainless ones last almost forever but tehy are pricey.
Jason
If there is no sign of wear on the sprocket teeth, there is no need to turn it around. It will gain you nothing. If you do turn your spocket around, be SURE you mount a brand new chain as well.
Shapening the knobs with a 4.5" angle grinder and a cut-off wheel is MUCH faster than turning the tire around....well for me anywho. If your knobs are still sharp on the back, stop coasting. :)
Shapening the knobs with a 4.5" angle grinder and a cut-off wheel is MUCH faster than turning the tire around....well for me anywho. If your knobs are still sharp on the back, stop coasting. :)
About the sprockets:
Yes, to reverse them, they must have countersunk holes on both sides. I think that Talon and Sidewinders come with these.
It's a bad idea because as the sprocket wears(even before the teeth hook), the valleys between the teeth widen. Turning it around could not cure this. Putting a new chain on a freshly turned-around sprocket is the same as just replacing the chain. I'm not saying that you can't use a new chain on a slightly used sprocket (I go through 2 chains/sprocket set), I'm just saying that the reversible sprockets are a marketing ploy. It sounds good, but it's not really functional.
Yes, to reverse them, they must have countersunk holes on both sides. I think that Talon and Sidewinders come with these.
It's a bad idea because as the sprocket wears(even before the teeth hook), the valleys between the teeth widen. Turning it around could not cure this. Putting a new chain on a freshly turned-around sprocket is the same as just replacing the chain. I'm not saying that you can't use a new chain on a slightly used sprocket (I go through 2 chains/sprocket set), I'm just saying that the reversible sprockets are a marketing ploy. It sounds good, but it's not really functional.
Birken Vogt
Member
- Apr 5, 2002
- 102
- 0
As far as lube goes, I have heard a lot of negatives about WD40 or petroleum based products. Seems they do not get along with the tube very well. I used to use soapy water...until one day I broke down and bought a gallon of Ru-Glyde from my local NAPA. It is made as a tire changing lubricant. I will never use anything else again...it is water based and so easy....
Birken
Birken
kciH
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 28, 2002
- 225
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I don't the WD-40 on the tube I use it to get the tire over the rim, but I' sure a little bit gets on the tube. It hasn't caused me any problems..yet. One thing that I do in order to make things go a little smoother, is to replace the rubber strip around the wheel with some duct tape. The tube slides easily on the duct tape and it doesn't appear to be any less effective than the rubber strip at protecting the tube.
los36,
Actually you are not quite correct there. First, you'll find very few aluminum sprockets that are designed to be turned around at all. Sidewinder's are not.
Second, the "valleys between the teeth" do not wear before the teeth do.
If there is no noticible wear on the teeth then the "valleys" too are OK. These areas do not widen unless the teeth wear, and only one side of the teeth wear.( a 4 stroke that uses comp braking alot can wear the other side slightly)
Now if the teeth have a little wear showing, then yes you can cure this by turning the sprocket around. It is a highly accepted pratice in an industrial setting to turn a sprocket around to regain original pitch. As far as being functional, it is NOT a marketing ploy. Now unless you have some scientific data that shows me to be wrong, you should offer advice on what you KNOW and not what you SPECULATE.
The problem with turning sprockets around in our sport is this...most sprockets used are aluminum. Once one side of the teeth wear, there is much less material left on the teeth. When you turn a worn aluminum around, there is not very much integrity left in the teeth and they are week. This can contribute to accelerated wear. If you turn around a steel sprocket, it will be fine with a new chain.
I'm not flaming you, it's just that the information you have offered is way off.
Actually you are not quite correct there. First, you'll find very few aluminum sprockets that are designed to be turned around at all. Sidewinder's are not.
Second, the "valleys between the teeth" do not wear before the teeth do.
If there is no noticible wear on the teeth then the "valleys" too are OK. These areas do not widen unless the teeth wear, and only one side of the teeth wear.( a 4 stroke that uses comp braking alot can wear the other side slightly)
Now if the teeth have a little wear showing, then yes you can cure this by turning the sprocket around. It is a highly accepted pratice in an industrial setting to turn a sprocket around to regain original pitch. As far as being functional, it is NOT a marketing ploy. Now unless you have some scientific data that shows me to be wrong, you should offer advice on what you KNOW and not what you SPECULATE.
The problem with turning sprockets around in our sport is this...most sprockets used are aluminum. Once one side of the teeth wear, there is much less material left on the teeth. When you turn a worn aluminum around, there is not very much integrity left in the teeth and they are week. This can contribute to accelerated wear. If you turn around a steel sprocket, it will be fine with a new chain.
I'm not flaming you, it's just that the information you have offered is way off.
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Jbird-
The sprocket on my bike is not used for industrial purposes, I use it to race. The sprocket wears where it contacts the rollers...on the side of the teeth, so you are correct there, but as the side of the teeth begin to wear, this widens the valleys.
In an industrial setting, I'm SPECULATING that chains and sprockets run at a relatively constant speed and load. In motocross (or any kind of riding for that matter), the chain and sprocket experience much more "shock" loads. Like going from braking to wide open, the split-second loss of power when shifting gears down a start straight or landing from jumps when the gas is on. The wider the valley is, the more slack or play the chain will have to "float" in during off-power or coasting situations...no matter which way the sprocket is turned. The resulting impact between the rollers and sprocket teeth when the gas is re-applied is what accelerates wear on the chain and sprocket. As the valley grows, the faster the sprocket and chain will wear.
No, I don't work in the sprocket industry and I don't see sprokets outside of my garage on a daily basis, but this does not mean that I don't KNOW what I'm talking about. I've owned bikes long enough...even had some reversible sprockets in my younger years.
The sprocket on my bike is not used for industrial purposes, I use it to race. The sprocket wears where it contacts the rollers...on the side of the teeth, so you are correct there, but as the side of the teeth begin to wear, this widens the valleys.
In an industrial setting, I'm SPECULATING that chains and sprockets run at a relatively constant speed and load. In motocross (or any kind of riding for that matter), the chain and sprocket experience much more "shock" loads. Like going from braking to wide open, the split-second loss of power when shifting gears down a start straight or landing from jumps when the gas is on. The wider the valley is, the more slack or play the chain will have to "float" in during off-power or coasting situations...no matter which way the sprocket is turned. The resulting impact between the rollers and sprocket teeth when the gas is re-applied is what accelerates wear on the chain and sprocket. As the valley grows, the faster the sprocket and chain will wear.
No, I don't work in the sprocket industry and I don't see sprokets outside of my garage on a daily basis, but this does not mean that I don't KNOW what I'm talking about. I've owned bikes long enough...even had some reversible sprockets in my younger years.
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MikeT
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 17, 2001
- 4,112
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You mean the Sidewinder Sprockets ARE designed to be turned around, correct Jay?
Reverse your tire and you'll like it. I wouldn't worry about the directional arrow. In brand new condition, the tread will work better in the direction of the arrow, however on a worn tire, whichever side has sharper edges is better.
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- Feb 9, 2000
- 3,718
- 0
I have reversed tires before but one thing to remember is that depending on the type/brand of tire, some are made with tread designs that shed mud quite nicely (moving it to the outside of the tire with the tire rotation) so if you reverse it and ride in mud it won't shed the mud as well. Personally I wouldn't ever turn a sprocket around, I don't care if someone has done it for 20 years with no problems I'll just get new sprockets and chain, which my bike needs right now :)
PS correct me if I am wrong but I don't believe that ALL knobbies are even directional to begin with are they?
PS correct me if I am wrong but I don't believe that ALL knobbies are even directional to begin with are they?
My two cents on tire reversal...
If you're going to go through the trouble to change a tire, just go ahead and put a fresh one on. What's the point in wrestling with a tire for a half hour just so you can have fresh knobs for one or two rides? I tried it once.... and won't ever do it again!
If you're going to go through the trouble to change a tire, just go ahead and put a fresh one on. What's the point in wrestling with a tire for a half hour just so you can have fresh knobs for one or two rides? I tried it once.... and won't ever do it again!
- Feb 9, 2000
- 3,718
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Well, new tires aren't cheap and some of us aren't made of $$ not to mention the fact that it doesn't take some of us anywhere near 1.5 hrs to change a tire. Matter of fact its good practice :)
You can get more than 1 or 2 rides out of it also.
You can get more than 1 or 2 rides out of it also.