Uhh Ohhhhh

[_JOE_]

What's your budget?

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

You have a basket, an inner and outer hub/pressure, friction plates, metal plates and springs. The basket gets grooves in it where the friction plates ride against its outer edge. They can be filed, if done evenly, maybe 2 times. The gap gets to wide for the friction plate tab to fit in. The inner hub gets worn on the face, there is a minimum thickness and it gets notches from the metal plates. The outer hub gets worn the most, on its face, and is prone to warp. Replace what is necessary, and get a complete clutch kit from Service Honda. It will come with both sets of plates and new springs. Change your oil often, and do not abuse the clutch. Putting new plates in bad hubs or a bad basket, will waste the new plates in no time. Aftermarket parts, Hinson is good, I think the Wiseco is better. Honda makes the best clutch plates. Maybe some stiffer springs? Vintage Bob

 

[madmike90]

bought a wiseco basket.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0434938769&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT


i should have no problems running stock honda plates right?

wheres a good outlet to get them affordably?

thanks

mike

 

[Patman]

Service Honda.

 

[madmike90]

thanks pat.

the basket i have now which i assume is the stock basket, has a large gear with teeth around the perimeter of the basket, and looking at the pictures of the one i bought, it doesnt have that gear.

how do i swap the gear from the old basket to the new wiseco one?

 

[2strokerfun]

Normally, you have to drill out rivets in existing one and then bolt the gear to the new one.

 

[madmike90]

Normally, you have to drill out rivets in existing one and then bolt the gear to the new one.

:( that sucks

is the head of the bolt on the inside going to pose a problem as far as being in the way of the plates?

 

[madmike90]

can i use stock service honda plates with this basket without a problem with wear, etc.

 

[2strokerfun]

:( that sucks

is the head of the bolt on the inside going to pose a problem as far as being in the way of the plates?

Replacement baskets are designed to work properly when the gear it attached correctly. If done right, it will work great.

 

[madmike90]

do the bolt heads recess into the basket so that they dont stick out?

 

[jsantapau]

if you bought a new wiseco clutch basket in a box I am surprised it didn't come with directions. more than likely(don't know your specific application) you will have to grind /drill out the rivets that hold the gear on the original basket,press it off gently paying attention to how the rubber snubbers are oriented and then press it on the new basket , using a dab of loc-tite on the supplied bolts would be good idea in my book. If you don't have a press it maybe be best to send it off to a machine shop.

 

[madmike90]

ohhhh okay so it comes with the required hardware i see.

i JUST bought it, it hasnt come yet thats why i was unsure.

 

[tom_yota]

From all I have read, you shouldn't downshift through the gears when slowing from sustained high speed runs as it supposedly kills 2t's. I don't know why but I have followed that advice and my KDX200 has survived many sustained miles of 45, 50, and 55mph runs.

I'm just wondering what the "proper" way to slow down from a sustained high speed run would be?
-Pull the clutch and come to a stop so that the motor stops revving quicker
-slow down in 5th/6th gear so the water pump still circulates coolant through the motor faster than it would at idle

Sorry to bring up an old thread, thought it would be more useful than starting a new thread.

 

[julien_d]

Clutch in, use the brakes, blip the throttle to keep fuel/oil mix in the crankcase. No amount of coolant circulation is going to help an oil starved 2t from getting buggered up.

 

[Eric Kropp]

One thing for certain: If you start it and it revs out by it's self, you probably have some sort of an air leak. That could explain the some noise, but I would think you would have heard the engine labor, then a screach and not so much a clank. Either way.....she's comin' apart.

Eric<><

 

[tom_yota]

Clutch in, use the brakes, blip the throttle to keep fuel/oil mix in the crankcase. No amount of coolant circulation is going to help an oil starved 2t from getting buggered up.

Thanks for the tip. the answer seems so logical no that I've read it haha.

 

[madmike90]

Thanks for the tip. the answer seems so logical no that I've read it haha.

okay i finished replacing the basket and plates. anndddddddd

when i start the bike the revs still immediately skyrocket. :|

im not upset or anything because the clutch parts needed to be replaced anyways.

i looked at the boot between the carb and the reed cage and i see that it is cracked but doesnt seem to be cracked all the way through.

is this a likely culprit?

 

[Eric Kropp]

Did you replace the seals on the crank? And did you take a look at the base and head gasket and see if it "moist" around either? Also, just to make sure the bases are covered.....the throttle slide in the carb is returning to the bottom right?

Eric<><

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

okay i finished replacing the basket and plates. anndddddddd

when i start the bike the revs still immediately skyrocket. :|

im not upset or anything because the clutch parts needed to be replaced anyways.

i looked at the boot between the carb and the reed cage and i see that it is cracked but doesnt seem to be cracked all the way through.

is this a likely culprit?

Catching up on a previous owners lack of maintenance. Crack between the carb and reed, very bad for a lean condition. More parts. Vintage Bob

 

[madmike90]

so if i replace the carb to reed boot, that may stop the problem eh?

 

[_JOE_]

so if i replace the carb to reed boot, that may stop the problem eh?

Not if it's a leaking crank seal. Call a local shop and ask how much they'd charge you to do a quick leak down test. It only takes about 5 or 10 minutes to do if you remove the gas tank before hand. They shouldn't charge more than 20 bucks or so to pop the plug out and test it really quick. Then you'll KNOW if you have a well sealed engine.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

so if i replace the carb to reed boot, that may stop the problem eh?

It will sure rule out 1 more thing. A sealed up engine is a sweet thing. Vintage Bob

 

[madmike90]

okay so i'm pretty certain i figured out the problem

dont ask me how this happened because honestly i have no friggen idea. :whoa:






i checked, double checked and triple checked the torque specs on all the nuts when i put the engine back together after the last top end change.

somehow, one of the studs sheared causing a gap between the jug and crankcase :ohmy:

i havent opened the power valve cover yet to look at the other one but im sure hoping that ones not sheared as well.

ill keep you guys posted with pictures


-mike

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

That will sure make it hard to jet! Anybody can get a good engine to run right. Nice work. Vintage Bob

 

[_JOE_]

Not a big deal. Go pick up some new studs and nuts, I'd get all four, and a gasket set. You'll need a stud puller for the broken ones, Sears should have it. Why does it look like the smaller cover on the side is cracked at the bottom?