VForce Delta 2 Reed Valve

[TVRider]

I installed my new reed valve over the weekend. The instructions said "do not use the low tension setting", but then told you how to adjust them!

Does anyone use these on the low tension? Does that affect the low end? What difference would I expect to feel over the stock reeds? I know these are basic questions, but I expected more out of these.

Frankly I couldn't tell any difference from the stock reeds on the high tension setting, but I am still trying to get my jetting right. That may have something to do with it.

 

[canyncarvr]

Mine are set to 'lo' tension. They work great! (kg-30) The only setup I've had with the -30 pipe that gave me a decent bottom end.

The difference between the DFII and the radvalve is a LOT! The radvalve over power reeds was 'some'. The power reeds over stock was 'some'. I never compared the DFII directly to oem.

Your reeds may be set to hi, but your pipe is 'set' to low! (-35) That's the limiting factor (imo).

You'll like them better on the low setting. Mototassinari's statement that '..the high setting was best on every bike we tested..' does NOT include woods bikes.

imo again.......

 

[TVRider]

Yeah, my reeds are definitely set to high tension as the warning in the package had me worried and so I left them as is. I'll try the low tension setting.

On an unrelated subject, what kind of suspension mods have you done? The owner of Motorcycle Stuff is an aquaintence of mine (we both coach youth select soccer) and when I mentioned the new KDX to him he said the 1st couple things he would do is revalve front and rear suspension and improve the brakes with "Daisy Discs"? I not sure that's right on the discs. Anyway, I know it's all opinion, just wondering what your's is on that particular subject. :worship:

 

[canyncarvr]

I sent my forks and shock to jeremy (mx-tech). They've been revalved and resprung (oem spring on the shock).

When I got them back, I wasn't terribly impressed. Began wondering why I'd spent so much money. Then I rode an unmodified kdx 200 on a section of trail back-to-back with the modified kdx. The oem suspension about scairt me to death!

The direct comparison allowed me to appreciate what I had!

I've since made some modifications to the valving (stack configuration) front and rear with mixed results. I'm still dinking with it.

I don't know why the brakes would need improvement. Mine have always been fine. After about 5 or so sets of pads on the rear I ended up replacing the disc. It's drilled, not slotted. I've read satisfied reports on solid rotors. I've used them before on other bikes and hated 'em! I have nothing positive to say about solid rotored brakes. I ended up drilling them myself!

Now THAT took a bit or two..........

Covered in another thread...but a btw on the reeds.

I realize that MT says the reeds will wear more on 'low'. I understand why this is so. I haven't run these on low for a long time, so can't say what that timeframe is.

I CAN say I've compared reeds between the radvalve and the MT (on hi) on two 200 kdxs that were ridden the same miles, the same 'style'. The MT reeds were perfect! The boyesen reeds were split, cracked, chipped, frayed and sprung. I've still got them sitting on the bench for a reminder. I couldn't believe how bad they were...how excellent the MT reeds were.

The rubber tips and the recessed fit of the petal on the MT product indeed makes a difference!

Respringing the front is a must! You'll appreciate a revalve, too.

As a race official once commented when I gave him a lift, 'Nice suspension.'

'Yes. It is,' I replied.

And so it is.

re: what to expect

The DFII had a much smoother, stronger, tractable, tactile pull on the bottom than the radvalve did. ...and that was with the reeds set to hi! Setting them to lo exacerbated the situation.

...and that's a good thing!

 

[TVRider]

I've done the XR400 springs on the front, big difference! I rode it a few times before the swap and it was scary compared to my buddy's with the XR springs. I went with the '01's but I also have a lighter set out of a '98? I am dropping weight and thought I might end up in between.

I talked to Fredette about revalving the front forks. He said based on information I provide he would build a shim stack and zip tie it to a Gold Valve and send it and I could install it myself, total cost about $140-$150. When I told him I'm not very fast and may not appreciate the valving he said it didn't matter how fast or slow, it would make my suspension much more plush, I would no longer feel those little rocks and bumps.

What's the difference between that and what Jeremy does. Is it just different guy accomplishing the same thing? Seems like if I revalve the front, I should do the rear as well.

 

[canyncarvr]

Different strokes for different folks is what it amounts to (imo...Agin!).

People that like goldvalves think they are great. People that don't like them think they suck! JW uses a small holed piston compared to the goldvalve (so I've been told). I've not seen a goldvalve setup to compare ports myself. The two types are shimmed differently. There are multiple-stage stacks and single stage stacks (FRP uses a dual I think.....).

There are considerable differences. In a perfect world you could ride two bikes back to back with mx-tech in one and frp in the other and make a choice. That's not too likely.

An example of a 'tuner duel': The response of tunerA looking at the setup of tunerB was, 'What kind of f'''n h''''it is this?'

There's always room for question it seems to me. Fredette has a HUGE experience bank to rely on. He's arguably the best kdx'er in the world. BUT...he thought poorly of the RB carb (maybe he's changed his mind of late. I don't know). How ANYone could consider the RB carb anything short of a miracle is beyond me!

But then, I don't have goldvalves in my bike either! ;)

If you do it yourself....get a 14mm hex driver for your airtool. Seeing as you just changed the springs (changed the oil, too?...I don't recall that part), simply lay the bike down, prop the front end up at an angle. Use a tiedown to squeeze the forks a bit. Clean up the fork tube ends..z-i-p out the oem valve..z-i-p in the new one.

I've not tried to remove the valve with handtools. Presumeably things on the inside would slip without the advantage of an impact tool. Don't know. They make a piston rod holder for SOME reason!

Of course...an impact tool used on install will require a bit of attention to torque! ;) I don't think you want to use 120psi on a 1/2" impact wrench with the idea of 'the tider the beder!'

Not that you would. Who knows who else is reading this, 'eh? Yanno the guys that complain about the lousy drain plug and how cheap it is cuz it broke the first time they changed the tranny oil? The guys that break their seat bolts the first time they clean their filter?

blah blah blah yeah howdy.....

Anyway..my bill from mx-tech was close to $800. Shipping forks and shocks 1/2 way across the country ain't cheap, either.

You do the math........

 

[TVRider]

I changed the MT Reeds to low tension setting last night. In a little cruise around the neighborhood it was almost scary how quick it came on from the bottom! Of couse that's a good thing, I ride because I like the adrenaline rush! :yeehaw:

The other changes I made at the same time were a 12 tooth countershaft sprocket and went to a #152 main jet. I think the sprocket had something to do with the snap available off the bottom but I think most of it was the reed tension. I hope to get someplace I can do a WOT plug chop tomorrow.