Jenx’d

Member
Jun 24, 2003
12
0
I have a 1984 KDX 200 that despite it’s age is a very low-hours bike. I have replaced almost every bearing and seal on the bike as well as the cables, brakes and clutch. The bike is very powerful and seems to have more power than the brakes and suspension can handle. The next move is to rebuild the front shocks and the rear shock so I can accurately dial-in the suspension. While riding this past weekend, the expansion chamber mount broke. The exhaust is factory and I’d like to upgrade. The silencer won’t be much of a problem but I was wondering what options were available as far as replacing the expansion chamber. I don’t want to spend a ton of money on the bike due to it’s age and the fact that this Winter or next Spring I plan on purchasing a later model KDX or KX. I love this old bike though and I’d like to keep it so I need some info on what I should do about my exhaust. Thanks, in advance for your responses.
Later,
Jenx’d
 

GREENHORNET

~SPONSOR~
Jan 20, 2003
119
0
In dennis kirk i have found that DG makes a pipe and silencer.
Pipe is 156.99
S?A is 85.99
If you look around for diffrent parts dealears you may find the pipe cheaper.
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,349
3
I bought an '84 brand new back in the day.

Brakes and forks were the weak points on the bike.  Not too much you can do about the brakes (they were not good even by '84 standards) except make sure they are working as designed.  Aftermarket shoes will not make much difference, IMO.

From the factory, my forks had way too little oil.  Adding oil to the forks really improves bottoming resistance and stiffness in the last half of the travel.  Stiffer springs will also help a lot - on mine, I cut a few coils off and added additional spacers. 

Rear suspension is decent for a bike of that vintage if the shock is still working right. 

Can you repair the pipe?  I doubt you will be gettting any major performance increase with the DG pipe, and you already said the bike has plenty of power.  Top quality tires are going to aid peformance more than a pipe, IMO. 

It's a nice handling bike and fun to ride - good luck with yours. 

 

 
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,349
3
BTW, on the '84, one pipe mount is a little rubber part with a bolt imbedded in it.  It is shown as a 'muffler damper' in the parts diagram at www.buykawasaki.com   That little rubber isolator can break; If that is your problem, that part should be available separtely and much cheaper than a new pipe. 

 
 
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Jenx’d

Member
Jun 24, 2003
12
0
Thanks for the replies guys. To answer some of your questions, yes the pipe is the part that broke. Specifically, it broke on the frame side wher the rubber mount mates to the tab that bolts to the frame. This was just glued from the factory so I think some JB Weld will fix this just fine. My Clymer manual says to chuck up a length of frayed cable in a drill and run it inside the expansion chamber to bust up any carbon build up so I plan to do that. I still would like to get another spark arrestor as there is no way to rebuild the factory unit and it is full of 20 years worth of gunk. I have brand new Michelin S12s front and rear and those have helped tremendously. The rear shock has been leaking for a while so i know it needs seals, etc. The front forks were recently rebuilt but the left one has recently started to leak again. I am pretty sure all springs are stock and I’m not sure if they are what I need because I am a bigger rider (6’2”, 210lbs) and the thing is just a bear to jump. The brakes work as well as any drums I’ve ever owned but they are scary compared to any late-model bike. I have considered going with some later model forks and front wheel to have a disc setup at least for the front. Any ideas on setting this bike up for someone my size? Thanks again for all the help.
Later,
Jenx’d

P.S. - Jasonwho, I see you are in Gadsden. I am in Montgomery. My buddy (’02 CRF450) and I have about 3,000 acres of land to ride on if you are interested. Let me know (H: 334-356-6340, C: 334-799-8237). I’m actually going to be up in your neck of the woods (Talladega) Saturday shooting doves on the Myrick farm out on Eastaboga Road. I’m taking the KDX up there in case the shooting isn’t good..LOL.
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,349
3
If the fork seal is leaking, it may just be some grit under the lip of the seal.  Take a strip of 35mm film or a business card and slide it under the seal and work it around the tube.  You would be surprised how often this works.

Cutting coils off the fork springs is a cheap way to make them stiffer.  If you remove 10% of the coils the spring will be approximately 10% stiffer.  Combined with raising the oil level, that should help a bunch.  Measure the space between the coils and make sure you will not have coil bind after you shorten the springs.  You will need to add spacers to get the right spring preload.

It sounds like your shock is shot.  Be careful jumping it or riding it until you get that rebuilt!

No doubt a newer front end would be a huge improvement, but when you total up the cost and account for your time and labor, it's hard to justify.  Afterall,   you could find a decent '89 - early '90's KDX for not much more than $1,000.   
 

Jenx’d

Member
Jun 24, 2003
12
0
Thanks again guys. I’m going to try the film trick Dirt Bike Dave and see if it works. It’s worth a shot! The metal tab on my expansion chamber bolts to the frame and to the e.c. I’ve got one ordered from my local dealer but in the meantime (just gotta ride this weekend!) some JB Weld on the old piece should get me by. I sent an e-mail to Jeff Fredette at FRP with all my current parameters (for me and my bike) to see what he suggests using. I have suspected that everything needed to go stiffer in the suspension so it’s time to dial all that in. I think I’ll stay with the drum brake setup because stopping isn’t as much of a problem as turning and flying right now and I’d like to keep the bike as original as possible. Besides, I plan on getting a new bike in ’04 and I’ll just keep this one as a spare. Jasonwho, I tried to PM you but it would not work. Shoot me an e-mail at: john@jenkinsdesigngroup.com and we’ll plan to get together for some riding.
Later,
JJ
 

Jenx’d

Member
Jun 24, 2003
12
0
One other thing I’d like to ask about is my clutch. I replaced all the disks and springs and cable back in the spring and it works fine but it is very hard to engage. I know the only spring action in the whole assembly is the clutch springs themselves so here’s my question. Do I need to pull it back apart and put lighter springs in or can I simply back off the spring bolts a round or two to lessen the tension? Am I missing something here? Thanks in advance.
Later,
John
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,349
3
Before you pull the clutch apart, make certain the cable is routed correctly.  On an old bike its not possible to go to the dealer and check the correct routing, but an incorrect routing can really make the pull harder.  Look for alternative ways to get the cable where it needs to go and see if it makes any difference. 

FWIW, my '84 had a light pull if I remember correctly. 

 

 
 
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