marcusgunby
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 9, 2000
- 6,450
- 2
Use Jers tuning guide on www.mx-tech.com ,on the rear you will always get black marks on the mudguard.As long as they dont go all the way round then its ok.
'02 KX 250 feels too firm
- Thread starter marcusgunby
- Start date
How many hours on the suspension?
Black marks on the fender are fine for Kawie's. Ever look at Lusk's, Stewart's or remember Carmichael (albeit he had a funky chopper setup).
Forks in general like a higher oil level with reduced clicks on the compression. Is the fork bottoming? If not, you can reduce the compression clicker settings a few clicks (bottom of fork, turn counter clockwise).
If the forks are bottoming, but are still harsh, then raise the oil level about 5-10mm and still reduce the compression clickers a few clicks. Before raising the oil level, be sure to check the current level and that both forks are at the same level! This will fight bottoming, but also increase plushness. Don't worry about rebound for now.
Also, to properly balance that chassis, run the stock pull rods, raise the forks to 10mm in the clamps and run between 95mm-100mm of sag. Even with your 200lbs it should feel a lot better good.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Black marks on the fender are fine for Kawie's. Ever look at Lusk's, Stewart's or remember Carmichael (albeit he had a funky chopper setup).
Forks in general like a higher oil level with reduced clicks on the compression. Is the fork bottoming? If not, you can reduce the compression clicker settings a few clicks (bottom of fork, turn counter clockwise).
If the forks are bottoming, but are still harsh, then raise the oil level about 5-10mm and still reduce the compression clickers a few clicks. Before raising the oil level, be sure to check the current level and that both forks are at the same level! This will fight bottoming, but also increase plushness. Don't worry about rebound for now.
Also, to properly balance that chassis, run the stock pull rods, raise the forks to 10mm in the clamps and run between 95mm-100mm of sag. Even with your 200lbs it should feel a lot better good.
Good luck and keep us posted!
DEANSFASTWAY
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- May 16, 2002
- 1,192
- 0
Hey frito , we found that after we changed out the stock original fork oil and put in fresh 5wt the forks were much more plush and handlewd the little chop/bumps better . It is a pretty easy thing and you could probably do it yourself I dont know your skills but if you have the manual you should do allright. It seems as though the original oil in those fors after break in feel very thick like honey maybe kyb uses some sort of grease on the bushings upon assembly that mixes in with the oil . While this may be good forbig jumps /hits etc you may like the forks better with fresh oil. There are other ways to make the bike more plush or seem more plush , like for some heavier riders we were putting in heavier fork springs and turning out the comp or revalving a little softer with the heavier springs the springs help hold the bike up so its not ridibng halfway down in the travel, but it all depends what type of riding you do. On one of my guys bikes (fast vet expert )we chose 46 springs next higher rear spring , and like 100mms oil level in forks. If youre heavy and you need to crank down real far on that rear spring to get the proper rider sag your bike will feel harsher than having the next stiffer spring without as much preload , youre not harnessing as much of the springs energy, pretty simple really . You know that bike is very good stock and I dont think it deserved all the bad press that it got in some of the reviews . All those current KXs drag the rear fender on the tire, normal, actually its good to know youre using all the suspension travel , Hey frito does your forks feel harsh in the front and good?soft in the rear? Id change out the fork oil first and make sure the front axle is not binding . GOOD LUCK DEAN
Not sure about Amsoil's stuff, but if it's cartridge fork oil that is an equivalent of the Kayaba stuff then you're fine and yes it would be 5wt. Once you get the front to your liking for plushness (forget turning for now), we can focus on the rear. There's several adjustments front and rear that we'll address.
First things first, though. is to get the front as plush as it can be (in stock form...a revalve can do this too but you may end up liking what we end up with). What you'll want to do before you go out though, is double check the clicker settings on the forks and shock.
Forks: Compression - bottom / rebound top
Shock: Compression - top / rebound bottom
Standard suspension speak is clicks out (as described in manual).
Turn each adjuster (forks and shock) all the way in clockwise to their seated position. Take note of how many clicks it took to get there. Back the adjuster out counterclockwise the same amount of clicks and this is how many "clicks out" your suspension is set at. Before you go out, report back what the settings are (fork and shock).
The High Speed Compression Adjuster (anodized 17mm on top of shock) can be a bit tricky, but you should check that as well. Here's the procedure: Place the 17mm closed end wrench on the adjuster, then proceed to rotate the adjuster clockwise all the way in until it seats. Scribe a line on the adjuster in line with the factory indent mark on the shock body (unless you're lucky and the factory mark on the adjuster lines up with the factory mark on the shock body). Rotate the adjuster counterclockwise 1.5 turns. That's a good place to start.
First things first, though. is to get the front as plush as it can be (in stock form...a revalve can do this too but you may end up liking what we end up with). What you'll want to do before you go out though, is double check the clicker settings on the forks and shock.
Forks: Compression - bottom / rebound top
Shock: Compression - top / rebound bottom
Standard suspension speak is clicks out (as described in manual).
Turn each adjuster (forks and shock) all the way in clockwise to their seated position. Take note of how many clicks it took to get there. Back the adjuster out counterclockwise the same amount of clicks and this is how many "clicks out" your suspension is set at. Before you go out, report back what the settings are (fork and shock).
The High Speed Compression Adjuster (anodized 17mm on top of shock) can be a bit tricky, but you should check that as well. Here's the procedure: Place the 17mm closed end wrench on the adjuster, then proceed to rotate the adjuster clockwise all the way in until it seats. Scribe a line on the adjuster in line with the factory indent mark on the shock body (unless you're lucky and the factory mark on the adjuster lines up with the factory mark on the shock body). Rotate the adjuster counterclockwise 1.5 turns. That's a good place to start.
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