Hello, I am having some issues with my front suspension and just can't seem to get it dialed. Doesn't help that i'm used to Kayaba suspension, this showa stuff kinda puzzles me. I am a Intermidiate level rider and 185 lbs. What are some recommended oil hieghts/amounts and/or comp. and rebound clicker settings? Thanks
03 CR250 Fork oil levels
- Thread starter mxer_69
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yeah i guess i should do that ;) . It seems like my forks are too stiff and they bounce around in rough areas. It tires me out way too quick. I've ridden Cr250F and their suspension is way more plush than mine. I've adjusted the clickers and tested until the cows come home. It really frustrates me when i hear how Honda's are suppose to have awesome suspension and i just can't get mine where i want it. Thanks
the stock springs should be in the ballpark for your weight. Use additional oil only if you need more bottoming resistance. If it's deflecting, try turning the compression to a softer setting.
Rebound: turn the clickers in two clicks, then try it out. Next, turn the clickers out four clicks, putting you two clicks the opposite direction from the original setting. Whichever one you like best, fine tune it one click at a time from there. Some times it's impossible to tell any difference with one click.
Make sure the air is bled out of the forks.
Rebound: turn the clickers in two clicks, then try it out. Next, turn the clickers out four clicks, putting you two clicks the opposite direction from the original setting. Whichever one you like best, fine tune it one click at a time from there. Some times it's impossible to tell any difference with one click.
Make sure the air is bled out of the forks.
NO HAND
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I have read some people use thicker oil in the spring chamber to compensate for the lousy oil lock ring; that is way too small to provide good botomming resistance. Some run Mobil1 ATF while some other use Mobil1 0w 30. -----only in the spring chamber. 405 ml as recommended stock, was a good starting point.
For the damper, the popular oil is motorex 2.5w This oil is very high quality, and expensive but it is worth it. You would have more responses for this thread in the suspension forum.
I too have an 03cr250 and was horrified at the stock suspension. Usually I can fix it with oil levels and spring rates until I'm happy but this bike was different. It needed a revalve, especially the shock rebound stack.
For the damper, the popular oil is motorex 2.5w This oil is very high quality, and expensive but it is worth it. You would have more responses for this thread in the suspension forum.
I too have an 03cr250 and was horrified at the stock suspension. Usually I can fix it with oil levels and spring rates until I'm happy but this bike was different. It needed a revalve, especially the shock rebound stack.
NO HAND
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Motometal hows'it goin', Per the procedure the bleeding phase is done on the bench and the excess oil has to be removed from the inner spring area before installing the damper unit inside the fork tubes. The oil from both chambers are supposed to be completely separated - to my knowledge.
The ideal viscosity for each chamber is sometimes different. In the case of our CR, the outer chamber is in charge of the air spring and the hydraulic bottom out cone. An air spring is not really affected by the oil viscosity so it gives us the opportunity to tune the hydraulic bottom out cone (oil lock ring) with oil viscosity. Thicker oil in our case seem to work better for everyone for the outer chamber, because the tolerances for the oil lock ring are way too slack.
The inner chamber has the base and mid valve and this area is impacted by oil viscosity. Thick oil would make the rebound too slow, and perhaps be prone to aerate easier. This is why a lighter oil is most often suggested, such as the Motorex 2.5
The ideal viscosity for each chamber is sometimes different. In the case of our CR, the outer chamber is in charge of the air spring and the hydraulic bottom out cone. An air spring is not really affected by the oil viscosity so it gives us the opportunity to tune the hydraulic bottom out cone (oil lock ring) with oil viscosity. Thicker oil in our case seem to work better for everyone for the outer chamber, because the tolerances for the oil lock ring are way too slack.
The inner chamber has the base and mid valve and this area is impacted by oil viscosity. Thick oil would make the rebound too slow, and perhaps be prone to aerate easier. This is why a lighter oil is most often suggested, such as the Motorex 2.5
bedell99
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No Hand i did the same thing with good results the lst time I change my oil. I went with the Medium weight Amsoil in the outer at 400cc and the light in the inner. I also put a preload washer. the preload washer I think was the key. My springs sacked out. Guys make sure your spring length is correct at 493mm and if it is a bit off put some preload washer in there. As for settings I have 15 re-bound and 13 compression. I still get some headshake on really high speens section with bad square edge bumps, but overall the forks are pretty good. I weight 155, 5'10" and I am B level racer.
Erik
Erik
NO HAND
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That's a good one!! Even between each manufacturer there is a huge variation on their 2.5w, 5w, and 7w... The system is not consistent and this is why some suspension tuners rely on other viscosity units,; such as SUS, or CST at a given temperature. I'm guessing Amsoil medium would be in the range of 7-10w. The trend was to use Motorex 2.5w in the inner chamber and Mobil1 5w30 in the spring chamber.motometal said:
Radiator Ron
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- Dec 8, 2003
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Hey guys, I've been playing with valving on the 02 cr 250 for about 2 years now, and feel that it could'nt get much better than it is now. Very well balanced and most remarkably is how the front follows the terrain. Stock the bike deflected alot almost to where a fast hit to the front would bring the rear around, and the rear would deflect on acceleration just didnt seem to track well. I revalved with racetech front and rear, but used stock springs at time they spec'd to my weight. Shock was never a problem since, but the fork still had issues. After countless valving issues heres what i found. 1. I quit smoking the day i bought the bike, +30yrs, = additional 20 lbs to my chassis. 2. resrung bike fr&rr. Racetech said Honda rated .44 was innacurate, .44 was what i needed, I purchased new .44 springs and there was a significant improvement in ride height/bottomming resistance. 3. front end still felt harsh on small bumps, changed inner chamber springs from moto-pro, big difference here guys, small bumps good bike started following terrain. 4. Bike blew through stroke after initial revalve, Racetech recommended removing mid valve, I feel this is wrong, it puts all valving on the base valve = harshness. Reinstalled stock mid valve bike had bottoming resistance back. 4. after installing mid valve revalving of base valve was done, i actually made my own base valve shimming to get it just right. 5 I revalved rear shock softer than racetech specs, I feel that the forks now work so well that the rear shock was stiffer to accomodate for the origanal mistuned forks. 6. Conclusion, verify proper springs, change inner chamber springs, revalve bike. I have gold valve specs, other valves you would have to tune and figure your own valving, just dont think oil will get you there, since i have been through this.
bedell99
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Hey Ron awesome post,
I have to admit my fork works well except for high speed bumps. I'm talking 4th gear accelartion bumps. No matter what I have done. i can't stop this bike from head shaking on fast hard square edge bumps. It is so annoying. I tried adjusting a couple of the stock setting and always end up back to where I started. I also find the shock not too rebound fast enough over bumps and it packs out.
Erik
I have to admit my fork works well except for high speed bumps. I'm talking 4th gear accelartion bumps. No matter what I have done. i can't stop this bike from head shaking on fast hard square edge bumps. It is so annoying. I tried adjusting a couple of the stock setting and always end up back to where I started. I also find the shock not too rebound fast enough over bumps and it packs out.
Erik
Radiator Ron
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bedell99 the only thing i have found to cause head shake while valving was too stiff base valving. When the front end hits consecutive small bumps, under wot and the front is light, it seems to deflect instead of compress which induces headshake. I dont think the bike has ever attempted to shake since the inner chamber springs were changed. Make sure your springs are right for your weight first. I don't remember the stock rear having rebound issues. Maybe your rebound is too slow , or high and low speed too firm, and again verify spring rates.
