1983 xr100 questions

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May 15, 2008
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#1
hello, new to board and have a few questions.

I just rescued my original '83 XR100 from a shed and decided to try and get it running.

I took the carb apart and soaked all metal parts in cleaner for a couple days. I can see light through all jet openings. I re-assembled and I'm getting new gas to the bowl. I put in a new ngk plug. I can kick it over, but it does not fire. I don't know where my idle screw or fuel screw should be set since they were messed with while in storage.

not sure what to do next. Any help appreciated

1. what weight oil should I use? I'm in massachusetts with temps from freezing to 95F

2. how do I tell if I am getting spark?

3. what is the proper plug gap?

4. what are the valve clearances supposed to be?

5. how can I tell if I need a new point ignition module?
 
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May 12, 2008
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#2
1.To see if you are getting spark take out the plug, hook the wire back up, set it against the frame and turn it over and see if you are getting spark.
2.Second the plug gap should be around .024 and .025
3.Third the valves clearances should be about .002 or .003.
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

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#3
Thanks for the reply Gncc. Well I can't get a spark...Does anyone know how I would troubleshoot that?

I'm not very familiar with these types of electrical systems.

I think it has stator coil, point, and ?
 
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#4
I have the manual right here

first check your kill button make sure its not sticking, then clean all contact points, for example, coil to frame. also check the plug cap, it might be worn. Check your breaker points, they might be worn too, gap should be 0.3-0.4mm or 0.012-0.016in. valve clearence is 0.05mm or 0.002 in and acording to the manual, plug gap is 0.6-0.7mm or 0.024-0.028.

if you need any more info let me know, ive got the whole manual at my disposal, good luck.


P.S The manual gives coil resistance guides in the book on how to test the coil. Ill scan them to the computer tomorrow maybe, good luck.
 
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#5
Thanks sm7482...That is some great information to keep me busy for a little while. I guess I'm going to have to get a manual.

Do you know which is better the clymer or a factory manual?
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

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#6
ive been using a clymer manual and it's pretty thuro, plus it was only about $21 @ motorbookstore.com
 

Patman

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#7
The factory Honda manual is light years better than any aftermarket manual I have compared them to. I will never buy any other type of manual for any vehicle than a factory producted book/DVD because they just are that good.
 
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#8
so I did a little more troubleshooting tonight. I am not getting spark to the plug, so I took the ignition coil off to check continuity.

I found that there is continuity from the primary to the mounting flange and continuity from primary to the end of the high voltage lead.

What I found strange, is that ther is not any continuity through the L shaped plug cap. This does not seem like a part that would fail.

Anyone ever have a problem with a plug cap?
 
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#10
_JOE_ said:
It's not that uncommon.
cool, I hope that will be the only problem. I should be able to pick one up from my local dealer and give it a try tomorrow.

I definitely have compression and fuel, so if I can get spark I should be good to go.
 
- a d v e r t i s e m e n t -

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#11
actually just pull the cap off, there is a wire that sticks out or just insert a small screw into the wires end so that it catches onto the electrical wire then lay your spark plug on the head of the engine, then set the wire/screw coming out on the end of the plug and kik it over, it should spark then. But the plug caps do fail, they become coroded. What ive learned is that the part least likley to fail, usually is the weakest link.
 
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#12
Same here new to the board. I have a 1983 xr100. No spark. No idea how to get a new electrical system. All the parts are unavailable. Can I use a new model system with it?