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1995 rmx250(keihin carb settings)

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#1
What is the best way to set a 1995 rmx250 keihin carburator? The choke and idle screw is made together it is a screw adjustment. How many turns should the air screw be set to? We have not been able to get it to idle at all.
Thanks
 

Zerotact

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#2
You may have a bigger "jetting issue ". but as a general rule of thumb, of you have to back your airscrew out more than 2.5 turns you need to go to a leaner pilot jet... I don't know exactly what carb you have..... but you should have an idle screw and an air screw...... so take my advice with a grain of salt....
 

fuzzy

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#3
How many turns should the air screw be set to?
The answer: where it neds to be. Even after jetting is perfect for a certain air temp range A/S adjustments will need to be made for small changes in the temp. Anyone who says differently either lives somewhere where the temp is the same EVERY minute or they aren't running a properly tuned bike. Go to http://justkdx.dirtrider.net and read all about jetting. Your bike has the same PWK on it as the KDX--don't follow jetting baselines, of course, but all the info you need in in there. Properly jetting your bike is the best thing you can do for performance, and consistency. I trust and rely on crisp jetting so much that if I didn't have it I would probably crash as a result.
 
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#4
Originally posted by fuzzy
Your bike has the same PWK on it as the KDX
No, the RMX comes stock with a PJ, like the older CRs except the first few years - it was a Mikuni then.

I've never ran my RMX with the PJ; one of the first things I did was put a PWK on, which has separate idle and choke circuits.

You can get it to idle, but once conditions change, even when the bike warms up, it will be off. Way off. And you will be chasing your tail in frustration.

I have instruction from someone here on DRN who was able to get it close, though, and if I can find it I will post his guidelines.
 
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#5
Thanks in advaced for any help, I have the air screw set to 2.5 turns, and I keep twisting on the choke adjustment this thing is driving me crazy:)

The bike may need a top end, I dont know when the last was done. I think this bike was the enduro version back in 95 and I was told it has a weighted flywheel.
 
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#6
Originally posted by propilot
Thanks...I keep twisting on the choke adjustment this thing is driving me crazy:)

The bike may need a top end, I dont know when the last was done. I think this bike was the enduro version back in 95 and I was told it has a weighted flywheel.
You may never get it to idle correctly, but as long as you understand others have tried and faild at least you won't go crazy (alone.) Most said they receved the benefit of good off-idle response when it was set not to idle.

The exhaust valve - albeit a good design for the bike's intended purpose - is subject to gumming up, and should be cleaned every year of regular use, even if using a good premix oil. That was the reason mine would run on once the throttle was chopped; the guy who onwned mine before me used petro-based oil. It would be good to check the rings while it is apart.

Here is what Trailryder42 wrote 3 years ago (I do not know if it works but worth a try):

Set the air screw at 1-3/4 turns out.

Turn the choke knob counter clockwise (from the fully-seated position; check the manual); this will have the effect of raising hte knob.

If you can't get a satisfactory idle w/the knob turned out 7-8 revolutions from fully seated, richen the pilot jet (one step larger).

e-mail me @ millenniumdsj@hotmail.com if you have any RMX-specific questions
 

fuzzy

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#7
No, the RMX comes stock with a PJ, like the older CRs except the first few years - it was a Mikuni then.
Oops! Sorry for the bogus info. Sounds like the RMX guys can help you out a good bit. I would recommend pulling that POS and installing a PWK.
 
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#8
Originally posted by fuzzy
Oops! Sorry for the bogus info. Sounds like the RMX guys can help you out a good bit. I would recommend pulling that POS and installing a PWK.
No biggie; we're all here to help.

That's still good advice to dump the PJ, tho finances should dictate how improtant idling is; cost on a new PWK is a few hundred clams. Used ones can be had for much less.
 

motometal

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#9
Here's what I can offer on that year bike:

Stock, a good running 125 would be a good match for this bike in a drag race.  It was truly pitiful.

the stock exhaust system was quiet, but terribly restrictive.  We added a complete FMF system and the difference was quite dramatic (and normally i'm not a big fan of aftermarket exhaust, many times it's overrated).  The bike was still reasonably quiet ;) .

There may have been a throttle limiter on the bike, don't remember that part.

Jetting wise, the stock jetting was horribly rich, I know for sure we leaned the needle and the main.  Stock it would rev about half way up and then just bumble.

Once it was tuned up, the bike was quite impressive.  It started quite easilly, would idle all day without fouling a plug (even when it was rich!).  Was resistant to stalling.  The suspension would even handle a few jumps if you cranked up the clickers (not nearly as mushy as a KDX).