2003 CR250 Clutch Problems....

[JD-250]

My original clutch was starting to slip so I figured it was time for some new plates. I installed a Barnett clutch kit which included kevlar friction/steel plates and springs. Two of the friction plates were green and the rest were orange. There were no instructions of course so I put the green ones in first and last. The first thing I noticed was a lot more clutch play than the oem plates. I had to adjust it almost all the way out at the perch to bring the lever back to normal.

The first ride was perfect with a smooth clutch and no drag but heres the weird part. The next day I start the bike and warm it up for a minute or so, put it in gear and the bike takes off! Major clutch drag when it's cold and get's better after riding for a while but will still surge forward while revving the engine with the clutch pulled in. I didn't notice notches in the basket but I did see rings worn into the pressure plate where the springs go.

Will a new basket fix this problem or do I need a new pressure plate? I have been riding the bike pretty hard for almost 3 years. Thanks!

 

[oldfrt613]

If I recall, my '01 Honda used a couple steel plates in the center of the clutch stack ( check your manual ). Didn't the Barnnet kit come with instructions, my guess is the odd ball plates are made for the steel plates, now you have them against the aluminum hub and basket.

 

[ellandoh]

from barnetts site

Installing a New Clutch

1. Check all plates for flatness. Make sure the stack height is correct. Make sure the springs are the correct height and tension. Check service manual for these specifications.

2. Pre-oil or soak the clutch plates (if wet type) in clean oil for about 5-10 minutes. Soak in the same oil going into the bike.

3. Make sure the plates slide into the basket and over the hub freely with no binding. If the basket is notched or fatigued where the clutch tabs go, it is best to repair or replace the basket or hub so further problems don't occur. Make sure the clutch basket and/or hub dampening unit (if bike is equipped with one) is working properly so it doesn't create a chattering problem. Have your local dealer check it for you if you're not sure.

4. Install the plates as per your owner's manual and check specifications. Replacement plates should go in the same way the old plates came out. Determine the O.A.T. (Overall Thickness). This is the combined thickness of all steels and frictions. Basically, this must not vary to any great extent from stock. You can use more or fewer components, but stack height must remain the same. Too thin a stack may result in slippage, while too thick a stack may cause drag. Some bikes have a judder spring, clutch boss rings, rubber O-rings, or a wave washer. When using Barnett products, you may or may not have to disregard these items. Check your clutch kit for instructions pertaining to this.

5. Install the pressure plate, making sure that if your bike has a dot, arrow, or notch marked by the factory, they must line up for proper function of the pressure plate. These marks are on some models but not all of them. The marks are on the clutch hub and pressure plate. Also, be sure to check the pressure plate along with the backing plate (the two surfaces the friction plates touch) for wear and flatness. An uneven or worn surface can ruin your clutch.

6. When installing the clutch springs (coil or diaphragm), visually inspect your springs for uniformity and tension. Check your service manual for spring length. Weak springs can cause slipping - especially at high R.P.M. Check to make sure your release mechanisms, whether they are lever, cam, push-rod, or hydraulic types, are properly working and do not show excessive wear. This can cause improper clutch adjustment, dragging, hard to find neutral, or hard shifting problems.

7. Lube cable, lever pivot and actuator, as needed. Make sure the cable is routed correctly and has no sharp bends or binding when turning the front forks from side to side. Remember, smooth operation will allow you to properly adjust the clutch.

8. Be sure to torque all bolts to factory service manual specs. Use a new gasket when putting the clutch cover on, making sure to clean the gasket surface first.

9. We recommend following the manufacturer's specifications on oil viscosities and quantity. Remember, the heavier the oil viscosity, the more the clutch plates tend to stick or drag when cold.

 

[JD-250]

I looked at my service manual and the OEM clutch has 5 aluminum and 2 steel plates and the steel plates are in the middle. This Barnett clutch has all steel plates. I hope I didn't make a mistake by going with this clutch. I think oldfrt613 may be right about the two odd ball friction plates going in the middle.

Thanks for the info from Barnetts site but they still don't tell you why the two friction plates are different material than the rest and where they belong???

 

[ellandoh]

Barnett...805-642-9435

 

[22703]

one thing every cr owner should look at on their bike is the basket.when doing a clutch take the basket of the bike and take the basket and ring gear and twist opposite directions.if you have movement then the cushions are worn.better buy a new basket or cushions or the thing will fly apart.basically destroying the engine.just a little precaution.

 

[Lokair]

I have a few ?s for my Yamaha YZ250 clutch. One is when I got the bike just a few weeks ago they said it had a new clutch put in at the local shop, but when I got the bike the clutch had drag for the first few laps, then got to what I expected, Is this normal for a bike that sat for the last 3 or 4 months? also I am not sure the guy used a good oil , I changed it to gear saver 80 weight , is this too little too late ? The clutch has performed well since I have changed the oil and added a few hours to the bike. Just wanna know for saftey's sake.
Lok