Chain wax is basically that...wax. It is a liquified parrafin with loads of takifier to keep it in place.
Parrafin oil is...kerosene. Alone, parrafin based products do not perform near as well as many other lubricants for protecting metal from friction and shock load.
Most all wax mfg's claim that their lube penetrates, but it is one of the worst lubes as far as penetration goes. That is why all of these wax mfg's will also recommend that you warm the chain up before application. The heat will lower the viscosity of the wax and help it penetrate some.
But from my experience, wax will tend to actually set up before it gets to the critical area where it is needed. So, if you are running a standard chain, I always suggest that if you insist on using wax, you should lube the chain with something that will actually get where you want it, then you can place the wax on after so it can help to keep the lube in, especially when using a standard chain on a wet, sloppy day.
On a ring chain, the wax doesn't do much at all. It may well help to keep the metal from oxidizing, but I'm not convinced of it's worth in replentishing o-rings with much needed lubricant.
Also, if you don't let wax set up for several minutes before you ride, it will collect dirt and grit, which will help to eat the rings away. Not a good thing.
Bottom line for me is, wax is not the best product to use for lubriating chains. As far as lubricity testing goes, you can take your dipstick out of your truck and put the used oil up against the wax, and the wax will lose.
If you are looking for a metal protector for storage, then wax may be a good choice. Much easier to clean up than cosmolene.
For a lubricaity test example, I tested Maxima Chain Wax on a Timkin machine, and the test ingot went to complete weld in about 9 seconds at ~120,000psi.(deep scarring)
Very similar results with SpectroSynthetic Total Tac, Silkolene Pro Chain, and Belray Super Clean.
For comparison, the same test with simple, white lithium based spray grease (Gunk brand) went to weld after 30 seconds and was able to be taken to ~200,000psi.(deep scarring)
Very similar test results with Exxon 10w40.
One of our dry-film lubes was taken to 350,000psi, and I turned the machine off after 10 minutes. No weld. Very little scar. (~3mm x 1mm)
Parrafin oil is...kerosene. Alone, parrafin based products do not perform near as well as many other lubricants for protecting metal from friction and shock load.
Most all wax mfg's claim that their lube penetrates, but it is one of the worst lubes as far as penetration goes. That is why all of these wax mfg's will also recommend that you warm the chain up before application. The heat will lower the viscosity of the wax and help it penetrate some.
But from my experience, wax will tend to actually set up before it gets to the critical area where it is needed. So, if you are running a standard chain, I always suggest that if you insist on using wax, you should lube the chain with something that will actually get where you want it, then you can place the wax on after so it can help to keep the lube in, especially when using a standard chain on a wet, sloppy day.
On a ring chain, the wax doesn't do much at all. It may well help to keep the metal from oxidizing, but I'm not convinced of it's worth in replentishing o-rings with much needed lubricant.
Also, if you don't let wax set up for several minutes before you ride, it will collect dirt and grit, which will help to eat the rings away. Not a good thing.
Bottom line for me is, wax is not the best product to use for lubriating chains. As far as lubricity testing goes, you can take your dipstick out of your truck and put the used oil up against the wax, and the wax will lose.
If you are looking for a metal protector for storage, then wax may be a good choice. Much easier to clean up than cosmolene.
For a lubricaity test example, I tested Maxima Chain Wax on a Timkin machine, and the test ingot went to complete weld in about 9 seconds at ~120,000psi.(deep scarring)
Very similar results with SpectroSynthetic Total Tac, Silkolene Pro Chain, and Belray Super Clean.
For comparison, the same test with simple, white lithium based spray grease (Gunk brand) went to weld after 30 seconds and was able to be taken to ~200,000psi.(deep scarring)
Very similar test results with Exxon 10w40.
One of our dry-film lubes was taken to 350,000psi, and I turned the machine off after 10 minutes. No weld. Very little scar. (~3mm x 1mm)