2009 CRF450R Ride Report

[Solid State]

Yeah, I did it. All those posts about 2 strokes over the years and now my garage has a new 4stroke in it. Oh well here's some info you might be interested in.

First off, I wasn't sure whether to go with the CRF250R or CRF450R coming off years on a YZ250. Decided on the 450. After the first ride, I’m sure glad I did. Honestly, I would have tried to return the CRF250 if I went that way. Here’s why.

I ordered the bike 2 days after it hit the internet sites. The dealer didn’t know anything about the ‘09s and tried to sell me a left over ’08. He didn’t think I raced. Maybe he didn’t think a 50 year old would be interested – wrong! I left a $200 deposit and didn’t really care what the final price was going to be. I figured that I was going to go to a 4stroke only after they got lighter and had fuel injection. Well Honda did and the online reviews were huge so I just walked in and said ‘get me one’.

Two and a half weeks later I get a call at work: “how’s your day going” – “busy” – “too busy to pick up your new ’09 Fo Fiddy?” – “yeah, actually. How about tomorrow morning, and don’t kill me on the price (guess I cared about the money anyway)” – “OK”.

Well, before anyone asks, he marked it down to $7199, then added $300 for “assembly and shipping” then added registration and tax. Total was $8100 out the door. I really don’t care about the cost. I keep bikes for ten years or more you know?

Anyway, I made him bring it to my door (80 miles round trip plus the Inner Harbor Tunnel fees – I threw him $20), got it on my driveway and had that same feeling I did in 2001 when I got my YZ250. What will it feel like? What will it sound like with that strange 2stroke looking muffler? Am I man enough for a 450? Is it the beast everyone says it is and I’m hoping it is? Where’s my pants? (not really).

So I kick it over – 2 kicks with the fast idle knob out. Wait a minute, push the fast idle in. Seems to idle good. Very loud compared to the YZ. Click it in gear and down the grass I go (3 acre lot – no trees, hilly). Well, it’s not all that and a bag of chips. I’m sure I can be very competitive in the first two gears with the YZ. Third gear’s another story. Now I know why I can’t beat those stinking 450s – not fair at all.

The famed fuel injected electric throttle response was no big deal. Again, no better than the YZ. The transmission shifted flawlessly and was as smooth as my worked over YZ trans. The “awesome Honda” front brake was again no better than my YZ IMO. I ran the bike not too hard for 15 minutes then parked it. I had a little buyer’s remorse. Then I fired up the YZ and rang its neck out. Front wheel in the air, rear wheel sliding, shifting like a maniac. I ran the YZ for a half hour or so.

Then I got something to eat and fired up the CRF again. 4-kicks. This time I rode it like a 2stroke and realized just how a racing 4stroke works. It needs to be ridden on the hard side to get some fun out of it. After several back to back runs between the bikes I can definitely say this. The CRF turns faster than any bike I’ve ever ridden. The CFR hooks up better than any bike I’ve ever ridden. Third gear is a gift from God. First and second are better short shifted. The suspension is pretty good, but it is much newer than my YZ. It’s LOUD. The front wheel does not wheelie – at all for me. Maybe that’s why they just roll around me at the track.

The 4stroke is not half as fun as the 2stroke, but I think I can ride it faster – we’ll see at the track. There is engine braking to the point that I really didn’t need to brake very much at all to turn – even on grass going down hill. The bike did not stall. The controls are nice. The bike feels LIGHTER than the YZ – no kidding, I bet it is. The bike looks awesome. The front fender needs a little getting used to. The handle bars transmit more sting than the YZ. The shifter knob is a full half inch closer to my toe than the YZ – don’t like that at all and there’s no room to extend it due to the ignition case (although the cases are magnesium and quite attractive). In fact, side by side the 450 is actually a smaller motor than the YZ250. Guess the R&D really did stop on 2strokes.

I’m hoping I didn’t run it too hard the second time because the owners manual says to be easy on it on the first ride or for the first 15 miles. Not sure anyone can do that. Of course, I promised to tear the whole bike down and lube everything prior to the first ride, but you know how that goes. Maybe next weekend. I order a bunch of extra parts from the dealer (oils, filters, ignition mapping tool/software, spark plugs (new design), cleaners, lubes, clutch and brake handles, etc.). Got 15% off at the counter so probably a wash with the internet.

So, if you are in the position I was – 2stroke to 4stroke, not sure of 250F or 450F, you at least know how it went with me. The YZ would dominate the 250F IMO. I’m jonesing (?) to see how it jumps and how it runs on the track. I’ll have to wait because I need to change the oil and FILTER. No parts available yet from the dealer so I guess I’ll see if I can tear it down to get it race ready.

Well hope this helps someone. Now I’m loud and obnoxious as all the other Vet riders, but I’m down to 149 lbs. and I have 58 horsepower and a light bike that’s all hook-up. And I grew up on two stokes. Game On.

 

[IndyMX]

I was noticing on Saturday that on my 04' fo fiddy, 3rd gear is insane.

First & Second I was pretty much tapped out.. WOT. But 3rd, not even half throttle.. It's just too freakin scary.

 

[RM85rider123]

how often to you have to change the oil filter?

 

[biglou]

Three and a half weeks until mine gets here... :eek:

 

[fatcat216]

Very nice write up. Game On indeed.

Have FUN!!

 

[tcuda499]

58 HP and no wheelies????,I need to ride one!!!

 

[sparkysakitas]

my 06 rmz 450 cant keep the front down (im learning throttle control though) :laugh:

 

[DWreck]

Three and a half weeks until mine gets here... :eek:

Lou is going red?! I can't say that I blame you. I got excited about it from just looking at the pictures even though I think it would suck for the kind of riding I do. For some reason I still want one.

 

[Sandman 2.0]

Great report

Do you feel that it or any 450 4 stroke would be to much for a woods machine? I weigh in at 150 lbs and have always ridden 200-250 2 strokes. Lately there have been many late model low hour 450 MX bikes for sale locally for short $$. I'm always tempted to buy one and set it up for the woods but I'm not sure if the 250 wouldn't be a better choice.

 

[Ol'89r]

Now I know why I can’t beat those stinking 450s – not fair at all.
.

Shhhhhhhhhh! :whoa: not so loud Solid State. You're giving away our secret. ;)

Excellent report. Thanks for sharing. :cool:


Sandman 2.0.

While the 450 works great in almost every situation, it is a handfull in tight woods. I weigh close to your weight and I find I can go much faster in the woods with my XR350 than I can on my CRF450. The 450 is so explosive off of the corners, you have to spend a lot of time getting it stopped for the next corner. Takes time and wears you out. For your weight I would go with the 250.

Just my $ .02

 

[Sandman 2.0]

Thanks.........much as I had heard that knowbody needs a 450 to ride in the woods. Fortunately, there are many 250 F's available also.

 

[XRpredator]

Thanks.........much as I had heard that knowbody needs a 450 to ride in the woods. Fortunately, there are many 250 F's available also.

I use a 525 in the woods . . . :fft:

 

[Solid State]

I just read on another site that the CRF450 has 56+ hp instead of the 58 hp I quoted. Just to keep things correct – don’t want anyone picking apart my post unnecessarily.

Anyway, I don't think it would be a good choice in tight woods. It's very light and maneuverable, but it does get super hot compared to a 2stroke, so I’d think it might overheat if you weren’t moving fact enough. The head pipe will get smoking hot in as little as a minute.

The plastic is pretty futuristic and molds nicely around the plump and compact shock body. Really is a great looking bike. Can’t believe how light it is.

I told the shop to give me all the tools that came with it and the sales guy said they don’t come with any, but the mechanic who put it together gave me two spoke wrenches and a funky spark plug wrench that looks like you need an open end wrench to turn it.

What I really wanted was the cam chain tensioner stopper that the manual calls out to slacken the cam chain when working on the head.

There seems to be some disagreement about engine oil weight. The shop says the Honda 10-40 replaces all the 10-30, but the manual makes it quite clear to use 10-30 non-friction modified in both the motor and trans. Warns against synthetic of any kind as well as anything that’s energy conserving (friction modifiers) for the motor as well as the trans. All the posts I’ve read say that the good thing about the separation between the trans and motor oils was that you can run the synthetic in the motor and mineral oil based stuff in the trans. What do you guys use and what does your manual recommend and also what tools (if any) did you guys get with your CRF450R?

 

[IndyMX]

What I really wanted was the cam chain tensioner stopper that the manual calls out to slacken the cam chain when working on the head.

I took two pocket tech screwdrivers, used one to turn the tensioner out, then cliped the pocket clips of the drivers together and stuck the blade of the second one into the chain.

So the second one sort of holds the tensioner in place.


I run Shell Rotella-T 15w40 in all my bikes, engine and trans.

 

[Rich Rohrich]

Warns against synthetic of any kind

What specifically does your Honda manual say about synthetic oil? I have an '02 CRF450, '04 CRF250 and '07 CRF150R service manual here and all are fairly specific about the oil but make no mention of synthetic oils. I'd be interested in what the 2009 manual says about it, especially considering that Honda introduced their new synthetic oil HP4S.


Pro Honda HP4S Fact Sheet

· HP4S is American Honda’s first fully synthetic 4-stroke oil

· HP4S is available in 10w30 viscosity only

· HP4S is compatible with synthetic blends such as HP4, as well as regular petroleum products like GN4. In other words, customers can switch to (and from) HP4S without any special crankcase flushing, etc.

· HP4S can be used in all 2006 or newer Honda Motorcycles, ATV’s, Scooters, or PWC.

· HP4S will NOT be recommended for use in earlier models as it would conflict with the 10w40 viscosity suggested in the owners manuals.

· HP4S retains the same recommended service (oil change) intervals as called for in the owners manuals.

· HP4S does NOT contain any MOLY.

· HP4S part number is 08C35-SYN-1030M, Honda Code is 8589731.

· HP4S is sold in cases of 12 quarts per case

· HP4S is packaged in a red bottle with a silver label and cap.

· Once our initial launch is completed on 6/1/06, dealers will order the new HP4S through their assigned ExxonMobil Distributor.

HP4S offers the following performance benefits:

· Lower fluid friction than conventional oils

· Better oxidation resistance for better high heat performance

· Higher film strength under heat and load than conventional oils

· Quicker flow to vital engine parts at low temperature, especially during start up

· Maximum power due to less frictional drag from the oil

 

[_JOE_]

Maximum power due to less frictional drag from the oil

That's gotta be good for like 10hp, wouldn't ya think Rich? Lol.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Maybe not 10 hp, have you ever checked out Falicon rods? http://www.faliconcranks.com/, Sure would be nice to get a current update of their craftsmanship? 565 big bore? They seemingly have been busy in the last couple years since I was interested in their products.

 

[Ol'89r]

I use a 525 in the woods . . . :fft:

Well, yeah! :whoa: But, you're 12 foot tall and weigh 387 pounds. :yikes: :nener:

Sandman weighs about the same as I do and I find I can go much faster through tight woods on a 250 or 350 than I can on my 4fitty. Plus, the tall first gear and the lack of a overflow coolant bottle tends to make the 450 an unhappy camper in the slow, gnarley stuff.

Oops, we're up to $ .04 now.

 

[_JOE_]

I can go faster in tight woods on my wife's ttr125! :whoa:

It's just not as condusive to the adrenaline rush we all love from a big bore.

 

[MrYamaha19]

09 CR450f

seems to me you could change timing and fuel on new 450 when hook up and make run cooler and less lean for woods riding and back again for motocross track Just a thought. :ride:

 

[Solid State]

What specifically does your Honda manual say about synthetic oil? I have an '02 CRF450, '04 CRF250 and '07 CRF150R service manual here and all are fairly specific about the oil but make no mention of synthetic oils. I'd be interested in what the 2009 manual says about it, especially considering that Honda introduced their new synthetic oil HP4S.

Pro Honda HP4S Fact Sheet

· HP4S is American Honda’s first fully synthetic 4-stroke oil

· HP4S is available in 10w30 viscosity only

· HP4S is compatible with synthetic blends such as HP4, as well as regular petroleum products like GN4. In other words, customers can switch to (and from) HP4S without any special crankcase flushing, etc.

· HP4S can be used in all 2006 or newer Honda Motorcycles, ATV’s, Scooters, or PWC.

· HP4S will NOT be recommended for use in earlier models as it would conflict with the 10w40 viscosity suggested in the owners manuals.

· HP4S retains the same recommended service (oil change) intervals as called for in the owners manuals.

· HP4S does NOT contain any MOLY.

· HP4S part number is 08C35-SYN-1030M, Honda Code is 8589731.

· HP4S is sold in cases of 12 quarts per case

· HP4S is packaged in a red bottle with a silver label and cap.

· Once our initial launch is completed on 6/1/06, dealers will order the new HP4S through their assigned ExxonMobil Distributor.

HP4S offers the following performance benefits:

· Lower fluid friction than conventional oils

· Better oxidation resistance for better high heat performance

· Higher film strength under heat and load than conventional oils

· Quicker flow to vital engine parts at low temperature, especially during start up

· Maximum power due to less frictional drag from the oil

Rich - I'm glad you piped up here as I was hoping to get the staight dope.

The manual states to use Pro-Honda GN4 4-stroke oil and recommends 10-30 and no energy conserving label (SG or higher if not using GN4). It warns to only use this recommended oil and not to use additives. It says that using energy conserving labled oil "may affect lubrication" - whatever that means. There is the usual temp chart where it shows 10-40 use at an ambient temperature range (over ~70F).

My take from the warnings about deviating from GN4 and not to have energy conserving oil, led me to believe that synthetics were out. Otherwise, I probably would have used Mobil-1, 10-40 Extended Use (I put it with the appropriate weight in everything I have of value and can vouch for its effectiveness over conventional oils). Except of course diesel, which I use non-synthetic diesel that quiets the motor I have found. Too clacky with Mobil-1.

As you know, the recommended GN4 is NOT HP4S for all the specifics you stated. The shop says to use GN4 10-40 as it "replaces all the recommended 10-30 applications".

So there is my quandry. HP4S 10-30 for all the right reasons, HP4 or GN4 10-40 because the beast gets really hot, or GN4 10-30 because it says so in the manual and seems to make a big deal out of it?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Rich Rohrich]

The manual states to use Pro-Honda GN4 4-stroke oil and recommends 10-30 and no energy conserving label (SG or higher if not using GN4). It warns to only use this recommended oil and not to use additives. It says that using energy conserving labled oil "may affect lubrication" - whatever that means. There is the usual temp chart where it shows 10-40 use at an ambient temperature range (over ~70F).

That's the same thing the manual has said since 2002.

My take from the warnings about deviating from GN4 and not to have energy conserving oil, led me to believe that synthetics were out.

There are lots of quality synthetic oils, both automotive and motorcycle specific that aren't under the Energy Conserving umbrella. Long drain automotive oils don't make sense in an engine that should see oil changes every few hours, so that's no great loss.

The Honda manual has a chart that clearly outlines the viscosity recommendation for the ambient temps you run in. Following that would be a good place to start. If you keep the oil clean, and keep a clean paper OEM style filter in it, I think you'll find that any of the Honda oils will do fine, as will a host of other oils whether it's 10w30, 10w40, or whatever.

 

[Sawblade]

I just read on another site that the CRF450 has 56+ hp instead of the 58 hp I quoted. Just to keep things correct – don’t want anyone picking apart my post unnecessarily.

That HP figure is at the countershaft, not the rear wheel. There's a Dyno chart on another board that shows the CRF450 hitting about 50 HP measured at the rear wheel.

Thanks for the report, I've looking at green or red myself.

 

[_JOE_]

That HP figure is at the countershaft, not the rear wheel. There's a Dyno chart on another board that shows the CRF450 hitting about 50 HP measured at the rear wheel.

Thanks for the report, I've looking at green or red myself.

I was under the impression they were closer to 60. Isn't a stock 250f in the high 30s?

 

[Solid State]

The Honda manual has a chart that clearly outlines the viscosity recommendation for the ambient temps you run in. Following that would be a good place to start. If you keep the oil clean, and keep a clean paper OEM style filter in it, I think you'll find that any of the Honda oils will do fine, as will a host of other oils whether it's 10w30, 10w40, or whatever.

Thanks Rich - solid advice.