VJVentrella

Member
May 15, 2010
10
0
Hello everyone, i am new to this forum and i though i could use a little help. I just purchased a 2010 yz125 last week and it doesnt even have an hour of riding on it. From day one i noticed that when the clutch leaver is down the clutch still grabs. I cannot start the bike in any gear other than neutral. I cannot even roll the bike with the clutch leaver down when it is not in neutral. Any ideas what this could be?
 

mathd

Member
Oct 11, 2008
208
0
VJVentrella said:
Hello everyone, i am new to this forum and i though i could use a little help. I just purchased a 2010 yz125 last week and it doesnt even have an hour of riding on it. From day one i noticed that when the clutch leaver is down the clutch still grabs. I cannot start the bike in any gear other than neutral. I cannot even roll the bike with the clutch leaver down when it is not in neutral. Any ideas what this could be?
I never buy a 2010 bike but i think that is normal on most mx bike especially if the engine is cold.
 

_JOE_

~SPONSOR~
May 10, 2007
4,697
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brentoncole said:
make sure your clutch cable is tight and it is actually depressing the clutch other than that i agree with everyone else

DO NOT MAKE THE CABLE TIGHT!!! You can cause the cause the discs to slip and warp if you don't have some free play at the lever. Usually about a quarter to half inch at the ball end of the lever. It will also clunk and jerk a little when you drop it into gear.
 

VJVentrella

Member
May 15, 2010
10
0
It is weird because I can rev it in gear when the clutch is popped in, however when I drop it into gear I get a slight jerk like the bike wants to go... It doesn't stall but it's almost as if the clutch was still grabbing.
 

ellandoh

dismount art student
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Mi. Trail Riders
Aug 29, 2004
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go back and read post #9, every bike ive been on does this
 

mathd

Member
Oct 11, 2008
208
0
For my own experience some gearbox oil make it worst.
I am using motul gearbox oil now and i have good result so far.
 

_JOE_

~SPONSOR~
May 10, 2007
4,697
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Right. It happens because the discs stick together with the oil acting like glue. Until you apply a load to the transmission there's nothing to seperate the bond. When you drop the tranny in gear it pulls the chain tight and then the plates seperate. If the oil is very thick the clutch will drag a bit more than if it were thin. I hear ATF helps this. You'll never get it roll like it's in nuetral with the clutch pulled and the tranny gear. Most of my bikes would start in gear with clutch in if they were hot. Not cold.

Basically there's nothing wrong with your bike. You can play with oils to see if you like anything better than what you're using now. It's really a personal preference, just be sure to change it often as the oil picks up alot of debris from the clutch.
 

_JOE_

~SPONSOR~
May 10, 2007
4,697
3
On a side note, I've seen some trail bikes with a wave washer thing in between the plates. I'd assume this acts to push them apart when you pull the lever. My wifes TTR has one and you can get it to roll in gear after you rock it back and forth a few times, unless it's been sitting more than a few weeks.
 

BSWIFT

Sponsoring Member
N. Texas SP
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Nov 25, 1999
7,926
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Ride it. It needs to break in. Change your oil after another hour or so riding. You may need to try different oils to find the one that gives you the best clutch "feel" and shifting. Change your oil often.
BTW, as the clutch plates wear, the cable WILL get tight. The cable needs a small amount of free play to prevent abnormal clutch wear as previously mentioned.
Before you ask what oil to use, use the search function. You'll get every possible answer you can dream of. Stay away from friction modifiers but use the brand you like that is in your budget. Did I tell you to change it often?
I use the cheapest ATF type F I can find. My YZ shifts well and I change it often. There is likely a 1000 members that will disagree with this but that is there choice.
 

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