250f mid valve compression shim question

[tmoney]

Suspension tuners....
I have an 03 250f and have tried about 4 different base valve/mid-valve lift setups..still trying to get it right. I race harescrambles and really am trying to plushen this up on my own without blowing the stroke so easily. One more try then I'll probably go with MXT for a revalve......I've read that the stock spring .44's I believe are adequate for 180lbs...

1) anyone weighing in around 165 tried a softer rate with good results?

2) The mid valve compression has the following stock setup. Anyone know what the 16x.1 shim is for located between the piston and the 20x.4 shim? Thanks.

Piston
16x.1
20x.4
(3) 27x.1
24x.1
16x.1
(3) 14x.29
25x.4
spring
collar
(2) 11x.25

 

[russ17]

The 16.1 is a bleed you can take it out
Russ

 

[tmoney]

Thanks Russ..what's the gain by removing this?

 

[dbrace]

The .1x16 lets oil flow thru unrestricted, to a certain extent. Then when the amount of oil trying to pass thru the piston reaches a certain force/volume the bleed created by the .1x16 wont be enough to let the oil flow thru unrestricted.Therefore to allow room for the increase in oil trying to pass thru the other shims in the stack will give way/bend. If you remove it the forks will feel much firmer on small low compression speed hits. What have you been trying on your BV.

 

[tmoney]

dbrace, thanks for the insight. I have tried a few settings. I am going back to try the following...would appreciate your thoughts. I tried to send you a PM but could not. I realize folks get upset when we start talking specific settings. I'm just waiting until winter to have my forks revalved professionally with MX-tech.

Base Valve =
(5) 24x.12 (reduced from 10)
22x.15
20x.15
18x.15
16x.15
(2) 11x.24 (thing this may give the HSC more room to flex)
Washer
11x.29
24x.12

Basically I cut everything in half and also removed the 14 and 12 dia HSC shims, hopeing to keep the bike up in the stroke but softer on the high speed hits.

For the mid-valve, I also am going to try some changes.

Piston
*Removed the 16x.1 bleed
20x.4
(1) 27x.1 (reduced from 3)
20x.1
(3) 14x.29 (removed the 16x.1 shim that came before these)
(2) 16x.1s (placed the 16's here to keep lift low)
25x.4
(2) 27x.1 (added the other 27's here to keep lift low)
Spring
collar
cup

 

[tmoney]

opps, mistake on the mid-valve. I actually am keeping the 24x.1 shim that goes between the 27x.1 and the 20x.1

 

[russ17]

So Tmoney how much lift or float are you running with that mid. to me it seems your running a soft mid. but in this stuff you just never no. keep us posted .
Russ

 

[tmoney]

Russ, I believe my lift is reduced by .5mm with this setup since I removed the two shims that were once between the collar and the what I call the cup. The other changes I made to the mid I don't believe changed the lift since I ended up adding them back in at places where they aren't active.

I'm not holding my breath on this one but I'll let you know what I think about it.

 

[russ17]

Off the top of my head I think the stock float runs around 1.5mm so If you have reduced it by .5mm then you are in the neighborhood of 1mm
Russ

 

[Kartwheel]

Remove the shims covering the 4 adjuster bleed holes under the comp. piston for anything but SX.

 

[couchrider]

Originally posted by Kartwheel
Remove the shims covering the 4 adjuster bleed holes under the comp. piston for anything but SX.

Kartwheel if you could lplease explain
Thanks Bob

 

[tmoney]

Kartwheel, also I would like to understand a little better. Can you refer to the actual shims from my stack explanation in the post above?

 

[Kartwheel]

tmoney and couchrider. The shims are at the bottom of the basevalve stack 11X.30 and 24X.10. These cover the adjuster bleed holes and dont allow any free bleed. I consider my YZ fork to be a firm MX setup and dont use these shims.

 

[tmoney]

thanks. I will give it a try. the stack I called out above is still a bit stiff.

 

[DEANSFASTWAY]

The basement valve.