86' and 88' KDX200

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
hey guys just bought 2 bikes. the 86 has a blown engine. ( i mean blown )
and an 88' with a good engine(so far)

when i bought the 88 the guy said he just took it to the shop to have the carb cleaned. well i rode it all day today and it was really hard to keep it running smooth.
i was gonna pull the carb apart and go through it but was wondering if i could just throw the carb on from my 86' ( just went through it the other day) without any problems.

i have the clymer manual and it seems the 86 has a mikuni carb and the 88 model use's a keihn. i kind of like the mikuni carb more because it seems to be a lot more simple. can i use it without damage to my engine?

also on both bikes the expansion chamber leaks at the head. the o rings are there but it still leaks. i tried high temp rtv but it still leaks. its like the the pipe is bent so the pipe isn't sitting flush with the head. i thought the pipe was just bent but both bikes are like this??

i want to upgrade the exp chamber and put a silencer on. but i;m not sure if a aftermarket exp chamber will solve my problem.

anyone have any ideas??
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
i am also planning on doing the top end . should i get the wiseco top end rebuild kit off ebay or just go cheap? its like 144 bucks for the wiseco.

what else would i need if i got the kit. it says it comes with everything but i doubt it really does.

i've been doing a lot of searching and answered a lot of my own questions.
 

julien_d

Member
Oct 28, 2008
1,788
1
It's not a bad price on the kit, because it comes with piston, rings, piston pin, and top end gaskets. The only other piece you need is the small end bearing. I'd go ahead with the top end before you start troubleshooting the fine tuning. Check the rod/crank for play while you have the cylinder off.
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
thanks guy's i will do the top end first. what should i do if there is a bunch of crank/rod play? i don't want to tear into the bottom end just yet.

also what should i do about the exhaust? it leaks a lot right at the cylinder head
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
1,463
0
are you using springs?

have you checked the silencer for a mouse nest?

your frame tabs and exhuast tabs could need to be tweaked for a square fitting system

when you do the top end you can epoxy the exhuast hole if its worn and reshape it for a tight fit
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
yep, using springs, no mouse nests. i've heated up the exhaust and tried tweaking it, but with no luck.

did the rear wheel bearings yesterday. a lot easier than i thought!
 

glad2ride

Member
Jul 4, 2005
1,071
1
I'd say to buy new o-rings and a new crush gasket, plus some silicone.

If someone let it rattle around in there with a sloppy fit, it will have been widened. What's the technical term for "wallered out"? :-) In the game "paper, scissors, rock", paper beats rock. In this KDX game, a steel pipe beats an aluminum cylinder. :-(
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
crush gasket??? all i have is the 2 o rings. maybe thats my problem? where can i get that? none on ebay?
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
1,463
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dave89b said:
crush gasket??? all i have is the 2 o rings. maybe thats my problem? where can i get that? none on ebay?


go to the local stealer they are happy to take your money.
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
1,463
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I think wallered out is the proper term if used anywhere south of virginia.
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
ain't no kawasaki stealership around here. theres a honda one though

i don't think its wallowed out to much . its tightly held on with the 3 springs, just not a the right angle so it leaks
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
1,463
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at some piont maybe a trail was wallered out and a PO hit it and had a yard sale and bent something

yard sale = a bad wipeout or crash. where crap flys everywhere.. (a term learn from watching a video possibly nitro circus)
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
was out riding tonight and my headlight went out :( about 10 miles back in the dark going reallly slow

the wire came un-soldered at the contact. i managed to leave the leave bulb out in the woods.....so what kind of bulb do i need?? i can't seem to find it in my shop manual
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
i'm prettty sure my top end needss a rebuild. but will it do more damage to the bottom end to keep riding it? or should i not run it till i do the top end.
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
took a drive earlier and walked the trail i was riding and somehow found the bulb! soldered the wire together and put it in and it works!
 

julien_d

Member
Oct 28, 2008
1,788
1
Sure it's worth the 200 bucks. I've been running the E series of this pipe on my 89...

http://dirtoverstock.com/detail.aspx?ID=189

I couldn't be happier with it from a performance standpoint. It's MUCH tougher than the fatty too. Thicker heavier pipe. No dents in mine yet and I'm pretty good at smashing up a pipe.

J.
 

julien_d

Member
Oct 28, 2008
1,788
1
The pipe is great in my experience, ymmv. Not much difference in loudness over the stock pipe, but a more clean crisp note. The silencer is quite similar to the stock unit, maybe a touch quieter. My buddy runs one on his but with the stock pipe. Problem is, it has no sparky. It's a straight through silencer only.
 

dave89b

Member
Nov 7, 2009
62
0
i just want to buy it so my exhaust doesn't leak at the head. the stock pipe doesn't fit right at all so its really loud.

what do you mean by it has no sparky, its a straight through silencer only?
 

julien_d

Member
Oct 28, 2008
1,788
1
I mean it is not a spark arrestor, just a silencer. I would run the DG pipe with your stock silencer / spark arrestor.
 
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