Do you have exhaust yet? A FMF fatty moto and matching silencer would be a nice addition if you are looking for a few extra HP... then maybe lower the needle on the carb a notch and run 40:1 premix
Yeah it has a Fatty Gold and Power Core II silencer. The PO was running 50:1 with dino oil. I've been using 40:1 also dino but after the rebuild I'm going to synthetic. I will be running the recomended 32:1 and jet it properly for that mix as more oil = higher compression = more power. I just wondered if most people used boyeson reeds on the stock cage or went for the RAD Valve setup.
I went with the stock cage. I also took a pneumatic die-grinder with 1/2'' sanding roll and did a little smoothing to the factory casting marks in the exhaust port being extra careful not to touch the sleeve! Every little bit helps, and if that expansion chamber has any kind of ding in it anywhere you will lose power. I can keep up with the 97-98 aluminum frame models. I also run a non-oring chain, wich supposedly is a little less friction than a oring type chain. A CLEAN air filter is a must. I love old honda stuff. I have a 1980 CR-80 and a 1987 CR80 as well. I did have a 1992 CR500 that was totally PIMP.
Yeah it has a Fatty Gold and Power Core II silencer. The PO was running 50:1 with dino oil. I've been using 40:1 also dino but after the rebuild I'm going to synthetic. I will be running the recomended 32:1 and jet it properly for that mix as more oil = higher compression = more power. I just wondered if most people used boyeson reeds on the stock cage or went for the RAD Valve setup.
Not to undermine your experience but running less than recomended oil seems to me would cause more friction due to lack of appropriate lubrication. To much oil would cause hydrolocking but the appropriate amount would boost compression and lubrication, and it should not burn richer if the jetting was tuned correctly. I'm going to go with Rad Valves and Ive been running premium pump gas with dyno oil at 40:1. After the rebuild I plan on still using premium but synthetic oil and 32:1 but may go with 40:1 if you think its fine. The thing is I dont race professionally, I just ride at the local mx track for fun and plan on riding the local hare scrambles but I wont be by any means up front. I just want it to be as reliable 2 stroke it can be and not have to rebuild it all the time.
just to elaborate, more oil dillutes the gas which results in a leaner gas to air ratio so your motor runs LEAN on gas when you use too much oil.
32:1 has been tested and proven to be a good compromise. You don't waste tons of oil but you have enough in your fuel that you get a sufficient amount of lubrication and also an adequate SEAL on your rings, which is where the power improvement comes from.
As far as oil richening or leaning your JETTING, that is irrelevant because anyone running a smoker dirt bike should jet to their environmental conditions while using the ratio they plan to run while operating the machine.
As far as oil richening or leaning your JETTING, that is irrelevant because anyone running a smoker dirt bike should jet to their environmental conditions while using the ratio they plan to run while operating the machine.
The word "should" being the operative word here.
Let's face it, a whole lot of people don't know, don't bother, or are too intimidated by carburetion to bother trying. Otherwise the number of "jetting" posts here would be cut by about 90 percent.