canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
Shame on me. :o
It could happen to you. I found it by happenstance. File it in your 'symptom' drawer.
Last week out, my bike ran for crap. Couldn't figure it. A jetset I've run before (40-152-BEL/2-#6TV) that had worked as it should...no big hits, just smooth and fun.
My air filter SHOULD have been swapped out before I went. Had a couple rides on it. Nothing awful. The carb hoses were clear. No AS tweak fixed it. The bike didn't idle for diddle...even with the adjustment all the way in!!
I had to slip the dang clutch to get going in FIRST gear on a one-each uphill. My riding buddy asked if I had any rad fluid cuz I smelled 'hotter'n hell'. No rad gurgling or spitting. Wasn't that bad.
A couple of times on uphills, in first gear with a quick throttle flick and the bike would just crap out.
I changed from a 152 to a 150 based on the 'feel' of the bike. That was opposite of what it SHOULD have been based on what I'd run previously and the temperature of the day. It ran better!
So..I had too much heat (in the pipe, cuz the rads were fine), no bottom end, but the mid-top wasn't too bad. A drop in main jet was an improvement.
Last night I changed my timing. Done it many times. I know the effect a bit of retard º has. Sometimes I run it, sometimes I don't.
My steahly FWW came off with no surprises. The flywheel though was a bit of a surprise. It wasn't loose...but it wasn't stuck too good, either.
Looked for the key to make sure it was there. It wasn't there! Somtimes the key comes out when the FW is removed, but I didn't see it.
I found the key sitting between the two stators. Not jammed, but stuck to some degree. I could see a slight bluing on one end from heat and on the crescent shaped side I could feel an 'edge' with my fingernail.
It hadn't been in the crank from the last time I had the FW off!! The only thing that kept the flywheel in any sort of proper position was the steahly!! (it has allen set screws that tighten on the outside diameter of the FW)
I was amazed. I have experience with sheared keys (not my bike). Even with the FWW kinda' holding things together...how on earth did the FW stay in any position that could spark the plug at a time that worked at all?
It did. Obviously retarded some (all of the symptoms..in hindsight.. pointed to that).
Moral to the story??
When you put your FW back on, run a small allen (as an example) through the keyway!! It had better STOP where the key HAS to be!!
It's not tough to have the key back out as you put the FW on. Hey..it's not like the FW slips on like silk...the magnets make it kinda wonky!!
I'm aware that happens, took care it didn't......happened anyway!!
Be careful with it!
Oh..on/off with 1/2" pneumatic impact. No...I don't use a torque wrench. Wouldn't have mattered in this case anyway.
It could happen to you. I found it by happenstance. File it in your 'symptom' drawer.
Last week out, my bike ran for crap. Couldn't figure it. A jetset I've run before (40-152-BEL/2-#6TV) that had worked as it should...no big hits, just smooth and fun.
My air filter SHOULD have been swapped out before I went. Had a couple rides on it. Nothing awful. The carb hoses were clear. No AS tweak fixed it. The bike didn't idle for diddle...even with the adjustment all the way in!!
I had to slip the dang clutch to get going in FIRST gear on a one-each uphill. My riding buddy asked if I had any rad fluid cuz I smelled 'hotter'n hell'. No rad gurgling or spitting. Wasn't that bad.
A couple of times on uphills, in first gear with a quick throttle flick and the bike would just crap out.
I changed from a 152 to a 150 based on the 'feel' of the bike. That was opposite of what it SHOULD have been based on what I'd run previously and the temperature of the day. It ran better!
So..I had too much heat (in the pipe, cuz the rads were fine), no bottom end, but the mid-top wasn't too bad. A drop in main jet was an improvement.
Last night I changed my timing. Done it many times. I know the effect a bit of retard º has. Sometimes I run it, sometimes I don't.
My steahly FWW came off with no surprises. The flywheel though was a bit of a surprise. It wasn't loose...but it wasn't stuck too good, either.
Looked for the key to make sure it was there. It wasn't there! Somtimes the key comes out when the FW is removed, but I didn't see it.
I found the key sitting between the two stators. Not jammed, but stuck to some degree. I could see a slight bluing on one end from heat and on the crescent shaped side I could feel an 'edge' with my fingernail.
It hadn't been in the crank from the last time I had the FW off!! The only thing that kept the flywheel in any sort of proper position was the steahly!! (it has allen set screws that tighten on the outside diameter of the FW)
I was amazed. I have experience with sheared keys (not my bike). Even with the FWW kinda' holding things together...how on earth did the FW stay in any position that could spark the plug at a time that worked at all?
It did. Obviously retarded some (all of the symptoms..in hindsight.. pointed to that).
Moral to the story??
When you put your FW back on, run a small allen (as an example) through the keyway!! It had better STOP where the key HAS to be!!
It's not tough to have the key back out as you put the FW on. Hey..it's not like the FW slips on like silk...the magnets make it kinda wonky!!
I'm aware that happens, took care it didn't......happened anyway!!
Be careful with it!
Oh..on/off with 1/2" pneumatic impact. No...I don't use a torque wrench. Wouldn't have mattered in this case anyway.