Adjust oil level on a 1992 SR

[Tico]

Hi there!

Does anyone know the correct specification to adjust the autolube on a 1992 KDX200SR? :flame: It's running too rich.

I noted there's an adjust bolt on the cable, I just do not know how to adjust it to the proper level without having to adjust and try and risk to leave it too lean and burn the engine. :eek: Are there any marks or something I missed?

Thank you guys!

 

[Tico]

I modified the pipe as stated at Dave's KDX website, it worked. I thought this would make it a bit leaner, but it is still too rich. I thin the previous owner messed up the oil adjustment. Any assitance will be highly appreciated.

 

[fuzzy]

I don't think you'll find too many SR owners on here. Just move it in very small increments.

On second thought....Leave it. Plenty of oil is a GOOD thing! Need to change your jetting if you feel your bike is not running right/founling plugs. While I only run this heavy on break-in I can run 20:1 all day without fouling a plug, but I know my bike(s) jetting traits and can adjust accordingly. I run my racing Kart at 10:1!!

 

[Tico]

Thanks Fuzzy! I'll first to adjust in small increments. It is definitively too rich, I warmed it up on Tuesday (Today its Thursday); it was hard to start and left an oil mark on the floor underneath the silencer.

 

[fuzzy]

Again, this should be cured with jetting!! Contrary to popular belief adjusting your premix ratio IS NOT the way to cure a rich/lean condition!!!!! By decreasing the amount of oil you will make your bike run even richer(worse). Less oil=more gas=richer. Don't touch that dial!

Bike hard to start? Should be easier to start when rich. Check plug, and reeds. You're going to need to pull your carb to jet that puppy anyway.

Read about jetting on the Cdave site, and rejet!! Keep in mind that your SR has a tiny carb(I think) so beware of trying someone else's jetting(this is always a bad idea anyway). You will find help here if you have problems, and you won't believe what a performance increase you get out of proper jetting!

 

[Boot]

Hang on, are we talking about too "rich" as in too much oil being injected, or too rich as in too much fuel? Better get this clear before anything else. Maybe you've got a bit of both, Tico.

My SR has been modified to run on premix, so I've never had to adjust the oil injector system. I wonder if there's some way you could block off the injector nipple and redirect the oil flow into a plastic bottle for a while. Run premixed fuel at, say, 32:1 to see how it goes at a known oiling rate. Of course, adding oil to the fuel will tend to lean the air/fuel ratio slightly, but not enough to worry about probably.

If you do decide to adjust that oiling rate, I'd suggest seeking expert help from a shop manual, bike shop or whatever because you don't want to wreck the engine. Otherwise, maybe you could find out how to disconnect the oil pump and run premix permanently.

Cheers,

Boot
Melbourne, Oz
91 KDX200
85 Virago 1000
http://www.copperleife.com/craig/bikes/kdx/

 

[Tico]

Thanks guys!

FUZZY: By too rich I really meant too much oil. Smokes a lot and fouls spark plugs.
Actually I am aware I need to reject, the pipe modification helped a lot but I am sure this baby's monster still needs to get unleashed. Boysen reeds are in my near future plans for this baby, not available yet at my local dealer -unfortunately, I'll have to wait aprox 3 weeks. I'll probably take it to an expert when rejeting, since I don't have enough knowledge on this (nor the required tools like an air compresor to clean the carburator properly). I know a guy who races motocross and has shop, the only problem is that he's always too busy!

BOOT: I think your baby is similar to mine (KDX200-G4). Thanks for your kind advice. You're right, I suspect a bit of both. I also suspect the KIPS is stuck, that will probably contribute to smoke when reving.

---------------
Any idea on where to find a KDX200-G4 Service Manual (I've got the parts manual, but not th service manual. Unfortunately Kawi local dealer does not have it).

Pura Vida!

 

[Boot]

No worries Tico. I don't know where to locate a service manual. I'm trying desperately to avoid buying one myself before upgrading to a later model in the (hopefully) near future. Even if he doesn't stock it, your dealer should be able to order a manual in for you.

Yes, your left KIPS valve will almost certainly have its teeth stripped. When I reassemble my engine this time I'm going to grind the valve's aluminium teeth off and simply silicone it into the closed position. This will still leave two functional valves for top-end pull, and should retain the bottom end grunt too. It's either this or keep feeding it new valves that only last a few rides before stripping.

The SRs are great bikes, though. Good luck with yours.

PS: You don't need compressed air to clean carbies out. You can buy a can of carburettor cleaner in an auto store that will do a great job. You can easily drop the needle down a notch or two yourself too, and adjust the airscrew. Why not have a go? It's liberating and empowering!

Boot
Melbourne, Oz
91 KDX200
85 Virago 1000
http://www.copperleife.com/craig/bikes/kdx/

 

[Tico]

BOOT, you got it ... my left valve is broken! Besides that, the carb was dirty and there was no element on the air filter, instead I found an old foamy material all over the air filter box! I cleaned the air filter box (gas and dry towel) and the carb (carb cleaner!). I need to find the power valves, understand there's a guy here (runs motoross and has his own shop ans store) who distributes (I think we also makes them) power valves not made of aluminum (some other kind of metal) that are supposed to last a lot longer. I'll try to find those so I can fix my left power valve. My little baby is much better now, It stopped smokin the nasty way it was doing and feel a lot more powerfull ... can't wait to get my new power valves!!!

Thanks for all your kind advise. I'll keep you posted.

 

[fuzzy]

By too rich I really meant too much oil. Smokes a lot and fouls spark plugs

Again, this is a result of too much fuel. "Fuel" in this case is gas/oil mix. You need less of it. Rejet to have less of it (leaner), and you will have less smoke and no fouled plugs.

 

[Tico]

Hi again FUZZY!

Well, I read Dave's on jetting. With an explanation as cler as that I will for sure do it myself once I fix the left powervalve which is broken. The oil injector was actually too rich, fixed now (nasty smoke stooped already). Also, the airbox was full of crap, now its clean.

I am trying to get the parts to fix the powervalve and update reeds asap.

Thank you for all your kind assistance! Now I feel more confident of working on my bike. I really appreciate all your assitance.

Cheers!

 

[B]

Hi Tico,

Ive got the same bike SR G model with the pipe mods, airbox mods and both sets of reeds (single and dual stage). Mine has been running rich too but its never really been a problem.

Ive never come across the SR manual but the Kawa 89 E model manual covers most stuff except the auto lube and wiring. Are you still running full lights?

B

UK

 

[Tico]

Thanks B! Yes I am still running full lights. I learned to adjust the autolube this past weekend (I found a guy who worked i the local Kawasaki as mechanic, he tought me!).

So, you have to bikes? The 89 SR and the 98 R? Are those too different? Is it worht to update to a newer one?

 

[B]

Yeah, but I much prefer the SR. It doesn't have the same snap but as a trail bike I fine it nicer to ride now Ive done the mods. The pipe really livened it up and with the small bore carb it really does produce good power down low, quite a bit more than my 98. Plus I really don't like the sitting position on the new bikes. In the sitting position I feel like a learner again on the 98 as the bars are higher than the SR and the seat is lower.

Like Ive said on here, Im not very impressed with the bike, sure its got prenty of power but the way it hits is a pain and the chassis is great when the going is tight but I rarely ride those conditions here in the UK. I swapped out the forks on the SR for Kayaba KX500 ones and the bike stays on line in ruts and on the track far better. I think Ill be keeping the old girl and getting another gasgas instead. Im sure that in the correct conditions it would be a good bike but I didn't like the jump from pre 94 to post.

B

 

[B]

What was the adjustment procedure?

B

 

[Tico]

Hi B!

Thanks for the feedback on the SR / R.

First, make sure your trothle cable is properly adjusted -nice chance to oil it-.
Oil pump adjustment as follows:
1- Remove the carb
2- Remove the lid that is behind the carb (it's only two screws)
3- Check the adjustment by moving the throttle cable from iddle to WOT. Note there are two marks one for iddle and other one for WOT.
4- Adjust as necesary (top right adjustment screw). mine was was way open. I closed it until it was just a bit after the mark (1 mm to give some extra protection).

Well, that's it. Pretty straight forward, all you need to know is where to locate the adjustment and marks.

Good luck.

 

[B]

WOW!, That easy,

Cheers Tico.

 

[B]

Just for your records Tico,

Im running a modded airbox, the pipe mod and reeds and my carb settings are pilot 45, main 128, needle n68 2nd from top (worn) 1 and a quarter turns on the airscrew. its rich on the bottom end but runs fine on WOT.
The oil pump setting were as you said.

B

 

[jaguar]

Boot, you said "When I reassemble my engine this time I'm going to grind the valve's aluminium teeth off and simply silicone it into the closed position. This will still leave two functional valves for top-end pull, and should retain the bottom end grunt too. It's either this or keep feeding it new valves that only last a few rides before stripping."

I use epoxy to keep mine in place. I think I first tried silicone but it didn't hold long due to the really high temperatures the valves have with the exhaust passing by them all the time. The metallic type epoxy is the best.
I tried it both ways; aluminum side valves closed or open all the time.
Closed all the time kills the top end hit much more than leaving them open all the time lessens the bottom end power. To compensate you can make your own base gasket from poster paper that is half as thick as the OEM gasket. That will lower the powerband a bit and also increase compression which will benefit power all thru the band. Also I advanced my ignition which really helps low end power. At the timing marks I think it was moved 2mm.

 

[B]

SR jetting, what are you running?

Mine seems to have calmed down in recent years and isn't breaking valves but the shaft is rattling now. Maybe the oilseal is on its way out.

Can we have a head poll of the 28mm carb SR jetting settings?

Tico? what you running, Jaguar? are you at sea level?

B

UK

 

[Tico]

Hi B,

If I recall correctly, it came to me with 145 / 25 and needle on the second clip. Actually want to replace the broken powervalve so I can fine tune the baby. I modifified the pipe as stated at Dave's and the airbox lid was already modified. I am looking forward to update reeds and get an aftermarket silencer.

Cheers.

 

[B]

And does you bike run rich? thats quite a difference in jetting compared to mine.

B

 

[Tico]

B;

Well, yes, a bit; it still smokes a little bit (I got this bike not long ago). It got better when I cleaned the air filter and adjusted the oil injector, but still need to fix the powervalve and jet properly. I am still working on this baby, as soon as I get the parts I'll fix the powervalve and fine tune (I'll post the new jetting).

Tico.

 

[jaguar]

42 pilot normally, but 45 pilot with higher compression.
needle at leanest position (lowest).
sorry but I have a homemade adjustable main jet and I don't know what # would equal it. (I have a 128 in my parts bin)

I think the elevation here is around 1000 ft. 50% humidity. hotter than hell during your winter months.

 

[B]

Nice one Jaguar, when Im back from my Jolls Ill start on the rejet and post the conclusions.

B