since i bought my 2003 kdx200 from the dealer when it was brand new the bike would not start in gear, since the first time it was started. The dealer said the clutch is probably out of adjustment a bit. I was wondering how to fix this. I know of the one near the lever and the one a few inches down the cable but when i turn it out in hope to get it to release better i don't have any play and im afraid the clutch won't engage all the way. Is there another adjustment, what should i do?thanx
adjusting the clutch
- Thread starter android86
- Start date
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
"i don't have any play and im afraid the clutch won't engage all the way"
Re-adjust that clutch! You want some free play (about 1/8" between the perch and the lever) at the lever. If you don't have any free play you could be riding the clutch causing excessive wear.
Regarding the two adjusters, consider the in-line adjuster a "macro" adjuster and the one on the perch a "micro" adjuster. Once you get the cable about right with the in-line adjuster you can fine tune the adjustment for free play at the perch.
Keep in mind, the bike will always be harder to start with the bike in gear because of the extra drag on the engine. The clutch doesn't fully releive this drag.
Re-adjust that clutch! You want some free play (about 1/8" between the perch and the lever) at the lever. If you don't have any free play you could be riding the clutch causing excessive wear.
Regarding the two adjusters, consider the in-line adjuster a "macro" adjuster and the one on the perch a "micro" adjuster. Once you get the cable about right with the in-line adjuster you can fine tune the adjustment for free play at the perch.
Keep in mind, the bike will always be harder to start with the bike in gear because of the extra drag on the engine. The clutch doesn't fully releive this drag.
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
You might check the angle of the arm going into the clutch cover to the cable.
There are shims internally that sit under the push rod that change that angle.
If the angle is <80º, you can remove a shim, if more than 90º add a shim.
The point is to have the arc of the arm provide the most amount of linear travel of the push rod. That will happen at the above ºs. You'll get more movement with the arm traveling from 11-1300 hours than you will if it moves from 13-1500 hours (24 hour clock).
Maybe the clutch wasn't set up correctly in the first place?
In any case, DO ensure there is freeplay at the lever as RV6 said. You don't want the clutch 'on' all the time.
And, yea verily, it is harder to start/push/move the bike in gear with the clutch pulled than when it's in neutral. 'Harder' doesn't mean it won't start in gear. It does..and fairly easily if the clutch is working. It's just somewhat harder that way.
There are shims internally that sit under the push rod that change that angle.
If the angle is <80º, you can remove a shim, if more than 90º add a shim.
The point is to have the arc of the arm provide the most amount of linear travel of the push rod. That will happen at the above ºs. You'll get more movement with the arm traveling from 11-1300 hours than you will if it moves from 13-1500 hours (24 hour clock).
Maybe the clutch wasn't set up correctly in the first place?
In any case, DO ensure there is freeplay at the lever as RV6 said. You don't want the clutch 'on' all the time.
And, yea verily, it is harder to start/push/move the bike in gear with the clutch pulled than when it's in neutral. 'Harder' doesn't mean it won't start in gear. It does..and fairly easily if the clutch is working. It's just somewhat harder that way.
- Jul 3, 1999
- 2,726
- 1
"but when i turn it out in hope to get it to release better i don't have any play "
Turning it "out" will give you less free play, (sorry about the punctuation but the kids spilled pop on the keyboard and the keys are sticking so I am not using them) If it is not dissengaging you are turning it the correct way though if every thing else is OK, Check the angle like canyncarvr said, The "macro" adjuster as RV6junkie mentioned may well help if the angle is correct. (hey the ..................................... key worked) I guess not!
Good Luck
Kevin
Turning it "out" will give you less free play, (sorry about the punctuation but the kids spilled pop on the keyboard and the keys are sticking so I am not using them) If it is not dissengaging you are turning it the correct way though if every thing else is OK, Check the angle like canyncarvr said, The "macro" adjuster as RV6junkie mentioned may well help if the angle is correct. (hey the ..................................... key worked) I guess not!
Good Luck
Kevin
Jim Crenca
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Mar 18, 2001
- 509
- 0
Just an FYI regarding clutch adjustment
When changing to aftermarket leavers I have found that some do not give the same ratio of movement at the clutch arm before the leaver hits the handlebar.
The obvious fix is to bend the leaver so that there is free play as well as enough travel for full disengagement.
I used a dial indicator at the clutch arm with the stock leaver; notated amount of travel (.375" with my bike); and then bent aftermarket for the same amount of travel.
Kind of a hassle just to change levers.
When changing to aftermarket leavers I have found that some do not give the same ratio of movement at the clutch arm before the leaver hits the handlebar.
The obvious fix is to bend the leaver so that there is free play as well as enough travel for full disengagement.
I used a dial indicator at the clutch arm with the stock leaver; notated amount of travel (.375" with my bike); and then bent aftermarket for the same amount of travel.
Kind of a hassle just to change levers.
Jim Crenca
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Mar 18, 2001
- 509
- 0
My experience has been that most oil issues cause the clutch to slip; android's problem sounds more like the clutch won't fully disengage engine from trans.
It could be that his bike may need jetting help and is harder to light up with limited kicking RPM from starting in gear.
My KDX (and my pals) will always start in gear on 1st or 2nd kick when warm.
It could be that his bike may need jetting help and is harder to light up with limited kicking RPM from starting in gear.
My KDX (and my pals) will always start in gear on 1st or 2nd kick when warm.
