ANODIZING (Coloring the Aluminum on My Bike)

[crawl9]

I've Been doing alot of reading on Anodizing and feel I can Do it myslef At home, I was just wanting some advise from anyone who has done it or know anything about it. I've heard alot about Japanese using a certain kind of aluminum that is a little harder to anodize. Does anyone know what the content or type of alluminum is used on 2001 Rm 125?? Is is a Cast Aluminum? Also, Where is the best place to get anodizing deox/ desmut, and sealer. I've seen a couple of place selling it for 24 a gallon, this wouldn't be enought to cover the parts i plan on doing, can this stuff be dilluted. Also, I'm very interested in the Bright dip, Has anyone done this, the alluminum looks awsome after diped in this. it sells for like $24 a gallon too, Can I dilute this also or where's the best place to buy this? I've got all the continers, battery charger, sulfric acid, leads, and cathorodes all set up. I'm thining all I need to get is the desmut/deox and a Sealer. or does steaming/boiling work good enough on this type of application? Is lye just a deoxidizer or is it a desmutter too. Someone Please HELP.
Thanks

 

[Zsolt67]

Are you sure you want to work with sulfuric acid? Just have a good shop do it. that too dangerous

 

[bscottr]

Crawl,
I can’t answer many of your questions as to applying the anodizing. However, I do know based on my recent anodizing experience (professionally applied) that each aluminum piece will have variations in the metal which in-turn will give a slightly different appearance in the end.

For example, I have an Applied top T-clamp and a stock lower. The professional took one look at the lower clamp and handed it back to me saying “there are way too many alloys in it and it’ll look like poop”. It may be that a different anodizer would have had a different opinion. According to him if you can see cast lines in the parts (most likely on your T-clamps) it is not a very good candidate for anodizing. Because of this I had my lower T-clamp powder coated and it looks great.

Again, the upper and the other parts vary in the type and hardness of aluminum and from what I understand this determines how long each part will be placed in the dip solution. ALL the parts I took him had to be stripped prior to the application of the anodizing. Most (if not all) of your aluminum parts have a clear anodizing on them now and it must be removed prior to the new application. He stated that this was the most difficult part in dealing with after production (instead of in production) parts.

I paid $50 to black anodize the: Applied upper T-clamp and bar mounts; Works Connection radiator braces and frame guards; and Fredette chain guide (it was gold). I also paid $80 to have the frame, sub-frame and lower T-clamp powder coated black. I will say that the powder coating price was a very good deal, but you could also get the approximately same price from the guy I used. Hopefully this will give you an idea of the cost of professional application as an alternative.

My recommendation is to not try this at home and don’t overlook powder coating as an alternative. If you want to press on and give it a try here’s a link that may help. Link.


Good Luck,
Scott

 

[MikeT]

Hey, Crawl, Where do you ride?? I live in Charlotte.

 

[whyzee]

Hey Crawl, check out this guy. I've spoken with him in the past, seems very reasonable w/ price. Located out near the coast between Willmington and Myrtle.

http://www.masterlitecoaters.com/

Good Luck, BTW, have we seen you at TNT, & if not, why not?
Dave

 

[MikeT]

Originally posted by 96whyzee125
BTW, have we seen you at TNT, & if not, why not?

Because he's so fast he doesn't have time to look around. ;)

 

[SndyRds]

I read on the web about doing this yourself,,, Try THIS or THIS ;)