Another How Can I Set UP A Enclosed Trailer

[Sawblade]

More then likely I’m going to purchase an enclosed trailer in the next few weeks. Like most trailer buyers I have a few questions about setting up the trailer. After reviewing a number of post and looking at MX 727 and Whyzee photo galleries (you both have some very nice set ups!). :cool: I have a few more questions.

When I installed the bike shoe on my open trailer I drilled the holes through the wood (1 ¾” thick) but was never comfortable with it not being mounted through some steel. I always used tie downs with the bike shoe as a stop gate. Which is a little redundant to use two systems for one function. If I use the bike shoe in the enclosed trailer, will the ¾” plywood be strong enough to support it? Should I put a piece of 1/8” steel under the trailer for support or will the wood be fine? If I use recessed “D” rings and a wheel chock will the wood be strong enough to hold the “D” rings in place? I really would like to use the bike shoe or even turnbuckles with a stand to secure the bike as tie downs get in the way. If I remember correctly mx547 uses the turnbuckle method. This may work best with a number of recessed “D” rings as the trailer is going to also be used to haul equipment for my son’s band. This way I wouldn’t have to remove any type of secured mounting system and would have recessed “D” rings in place to secure band equipment.

I also want a way to secure a small 9 drawer rolling toolbox at the front of the trailer. No more moving tools from the 9 drawer rolling tool box to the small box I take with me to the races only to find I didn’t grab my favorite screwdriver! I can lock all the drawers so they don’t come open in transit. How can I secure the rolling toolbox so it doesn’t play roller ball with the bike and anything else in the trailer? I had this happen about 10 years ago on one of our state-to-state moves with a Ryder truck. When I opened the door on the rider truck I most likely looked like this :yikes: It's no fun trying to find what sockets ended up in the dark recesses of your couch! :ohmy:

Tim in Arkansas

 

[ScottS]

I put a false floor in my trailer , I think 7/8 , and mounted the wheel chocks and d rings in that . That way I did not have to drill holes in my new trailer. I routered pockets for all teh hardware and bolted everything to the plywood before I screwed it down. I used wood screws to hold the new floor down. You don't need as many screws as you think. I use chains and carabiners in the footpegs, no stands. Just tip the bike to one side , hook the footpeg, and tip it the other way and hook it. It pulls both rear and front suspension down, and it is very rigid. I also set up the floor rings to have the chains pull the bike forward into the chock. I only have to compress my suspenison a few inches and it is rock solid . When I am not hauling bikes the wheel chocks come out and I have a flush floor.

To secure the toolbox I would get several heavy duty hinges with removable pins. Bolt one part of the hinge to the floor and another to the box. When you put the box in place just line up the hinges and put the pin through with a retaining clip. When you want take it out just pull the pins. If you use my false floor idea you could router pockets for the wheels so it would always end up in the right place. If you are worried about it tipping , you could add a 3rd hinge at the top, attached to the wall.

 

[High Lord Gomer]

I oriented the 4 bike shoes at about 30 degrees along the left side of the trailer. This allowed the forward mounting bolt for each one to go throw the steel frame for the wheel well (tandem axle).

 

[mx547]

If I use recessed “D” rings and a wheel chock will the wood be strong enough to hold the “D” rings in place? I really would like to use the bike shoe or even turnbuckles with a stand to secure the bike as tie downs get in the way. If I remember correctly mx547 uses the turnbuckle method.

yes, i do. i put pieces of 1" angle under each "d" ring for added strength.

 

[tnrider]

where i could not hit frame - i also put 1" angle under the floor and tried to hit 2-bolts on each (keeps from spinning). i also used a lock washer - lock nut - AND locktite. ok, call me paranoid... :yikes:

i had a few holes to fill in the trailer floor (someone measured incorrectly...) i put ducktape on the underside and filled the holes from the top with a hard wood patching compound. i can't recall the name but purchased it when doing a bathroom subfloor. it comes as a powder that is mixed with water and hardens to something between wood and steel.

 

[Patman]

I used "Bed Bolts" for my tied down locations and just drilled the plywood floor and mounted them using large washers. As long as you have a backing plate of some kind be it large washers or a piece of steel it should be plenty fine. I've kicked around the idea of a small roll around tool box and have a couple ideas. The quick and dirty is to just strap it in. You could also get some mini load binders and mount a tie down point to the floor and an eye bolt to each side of the chassis of the tool box and just lock it in position on the floor then release it when you want. I think I might choose to build a small frame that mounts to the steel framework of the walls to distribute the load. Then I'll position some small pieces of angle on the frame and either bolt or weld some "tabs" to the tool box so that all I have to do is insert a small hitch pin on each side to lock it in place. I'd venture you could do something very similar with a folding hasp and some plywood mounted to the wall for additional support.

I had some holes in the floor of my trailer because I move some of the mounting points. To fill the bolt holes (a few were 1/2") I placed some masking tape on the underside of the floor and filled the holes with Liquid Nails. Problem solved.

Think it out before going forward because there are A LOT of possibilities for setting up your trailer.

 

[mtk]

I put D-rings in the floor of my enclosed trailer with nothing but washers backing them up. Never had a problem hauling my FZR400 roadracer all over the place either.

For securing toolboxes and such, check out "E-track" that they use in large commercial trailers. The stuff is the awesome. I've seen folks put it on the walls, the floor, you name it. They sell straps that hook into it, tie down rings, sockets for "2x" dimensional lumber (so you can put boards across the trailer and make removable shelves, for instance), and much more. Put two strips down the wall, one low and one high, and strap your roll-away to the wall when moving. Just remember to lock the drawers before you go.

To fill holes in the plywood, go to your local home center and get PowerPoxy two-part epoxy. It comes in plastic tubs, both white, one with a red lid and label printing, the other a black lid and label printing. I'm sure other brands work as well, but I've used this stuff so I know it's good. Block off the bottom of the hole with something and fill it with this stuff. When it hardens, you can do anything to it you would to the original wood floor. I relocated some of my tie downs in my trailer and when I did I took the new plywood disk I cut out and epoxied it in the hole I wanted to fill. Problem solved, permanently. In fact, I used the same stuff when remodeling a bathroom in my house to fill in uneven spots and other "unconventional" uses.

Last but not least, don't forget the most important accessory: a roof mounted AC unit. Either mount a generator on the tongue of the trailer, or chain a portable to the tongue, and fire up the genset and AC before you leave. When you come back, all hot and tired, the trailer is ice cold inside. ;)

 

[Sawblade]

I put D-rings in the floor of my enclosed trailer with nothing but washers backing them up. Never had a problem hauling my FZR400 roadracer all over the place either. For securing toolboxes and such, check out "E-track" that they use in large commercial trailers.)/QUOTE]


The "E-track" is a great idea. It would also be easy to roll the chest in and out and strap it in quickly. I went to Tractor Supply after work tonight to check out what few items they have. I think the D-rings are the way to go. Plus if I go with the recessed ones it gives me an excuse to buy a router. ;)

Thanks guys for all your ideas. I decided to go with a Interstate 5' x 10' trailer. I'm going to pick up the trailer tomorrow afternoon! :yeehaw: :yeehaw:

 

[ScottS]

Any excuse to buy tools is good.

 

[BSWIFT]

Sawblade, my trailer is up for Sale. 6X12 with ramp door. I've got a few ideas working that I'll throw in. Not new but cheap.

 

[BadgerMan]

yes, i do. i put pieces of 1" angle under each "d" ring for added strength.

My trailer has a 3/4 treated plywood floor. I put in recessed d-rings and backed them up with pieces of 5/4 deck lumber for added strength and to cover them from the back side making them water tight. Works great.

 

[WaltCMoto]

I use d-rings and turnbuckles with the bike on a crate.(thanks mx547) I like this set up because it leaves the floor space open for sleeping in there. I used large washers over the 3/8 bolts only and have had no issues. It would take quite a jolt to pull four 1 1/2 " washers through 3/4" plywood. As far as putting a few to many holes in the floor, ITS A DIRT BIKE TRAILER. You can always patch them or just leave the d-ring there and put in anouther one where you need it in the new set up. you can never have to many tie down points.

 

[mtk]

I agree, there's no need to get crazy backing up the D-rings because you'll never pull one out of the floor hauling a motorcycle. Just use flat washers and nylon locking nuts on the back side and forget it. The nylon nuts prevent the bolts from backing off, making it a "set and forget" item.

Also, rather than use a router to make the holes, use a jigsaw. When you're done, save the disk of plywood you cut out of the floor. If you decide to move the D-rings or remove them, use the disk of plywood and the Powr Poxy stuff I mentioned to patch the holes. Just "glue" the plywood back in the hole with the epoxy and when you're done it's just as strong as the original plywood floor. Been there, done that.

You also don't need to worry about it being water tight since road spray will never work it's way past the D-ring. The D-rings also have a drain hole as I recall so any moisture that gets in them from the top will drain out of the trailer through it.

 

[mx547]

i'm old school, i chiseled out the recesses for the d rings.

 

[High Lord Gomer]

With the angled mounting, here are 7 bikes and a 4 wheeler in an 8x16.

 

[ellandoh]

nice

gomer yousure can pack that trailer.....................
but the guys I seen at the dunes (silver lake mi) have got engineering degrees in it i saw 4 quads in the back of a f-250 stacked on plywood tied together standing on their ends 300 mile trip none were damaged...amazing

 

[Sawblade]

I picked up the trailer Friday evening and used it Saturday to haul my sons bands equipment to their first gig and Sunday we drove 100 mile each way to pick up new bedroom furniture. So far I'm very pleased with my purchase. :cool:

This Saturday will be spent laying out anchor points. I'm going to use the bike shoe I have and will position D rings to use with turnbuckles if they are needed for 2 other bikes. For a quick release system with the bike shoe I'm going to use a piece of angle iron with nuts welded to it. This will be mounted to the bottom of the trailer so the bike shoe can be remove to haul the band equipment. I'm going to paint the floor and may add a ramp like MX-727 did since I have the barn door.


HLG - I like how you used the wire shelves and Rubbermaid containers to hold stuff. What did you use for support between the shelves?

WaltCMoto - I put 6 holes in the floor on Saturday from rushing to put in some anchor points. I'm not concerned as they can be filled. But dang it!

mtk - I didn't think about nylon locking nuts. Good advise. As for as the router, work with me man. Any excuse to buy tools during a project makes for a good project! :)

Thanks again everyone, you have given a lot of ideas!

 

[mtk]

Hey, no worries, I'm right there with you on that.

OK, I have a solution for you. The D-ring clearance hole isn't exactly round, if I recall correctly.

Buy a hole saw and arbor to fit the round part of the opening, but just barely.

Of course, the D-ring won't fit properly because of said out-of-roundness.

Now use the router to fix the minor clearance issues.

Justification: you're leaving more floor intact, resulting in more strength in said trailer floor. You also still have the plywood plugs if you need to plug a hole. (Trust me, those discs come in handy.) In addition, if you need to plug a hole, you use the router to cut a groove in the middle of the plywood floor (think tongue and groove here) so the epoxy can form a mechanical joint, which will be even stronger than just using it like glue.

How's that for tool justification? I know, it's a gift. I've used similar logic to buy a $1000 milling machine to make a $50 set of rearset footpeg brackets. ;)

Just make sure you never say "jigsaw" out loud in front of the wife. I'm assuming there is a wife involved since otherwise there's no impediments to buying tools at all. ;)

 

[Sawblade]

Just make sure you never say "jigsaw" out loud in front of the wife. I'm assuming there is a wife involved since otherwise there's no impediments to buying tools at all. ;)

LOL. I made that mistake once and was surprised when the wife went to the shelf full of tools and picked up the jigsaw! :ohmy: Usually the conversation is something like this: "That's right honey, I need to buy a new tool so I can use it only once, maybe twice. But more importantly, it will look impress the guys that I have a new tool on the pegboard above the workbench." ;)

 

[mtk]

:)

What I meant was, don't say "jigsaw" as a possible solution to the problem, particularly since you have one.

Now, if after the fact she says, "You could have used the jigsaw for that," you need to give her your best surprised look and say, "Hmm, you're right, that would have worked too, but it's too late now as I've already used the router and can't return it." ;)

 

[High Lord Gomer]

HLG - I like how you used the wire shelves and Rubbermaid containers to hold stuff. What did you use for support between the shelves?

I used self-tapping screws (pre-drilled the holes with a slightly smaller bit) and hung the hangers on the wall in line with where the heavy metal supports (studs ?) are in the wall. I then bolted aluminum angle-iron (Hmm, what do you call angle iron when it is made from Al? ) to the cieling supports. I fastened the shelves to the aluminum angle using little U-bolts that were intended to be used as cable/wire clamps.

I got the containers the right size so that i have to slide them in diagonally and then straighten. The lip keeps them from sliding out and they are too wide to come out between the aluminum angle without being turned diagonally. I have done wire shelves before in a trailer and I made drop-down doors to keep things in, but this is much easier.

The helmets I like to keep in the open so they can air out. It is a little bit of a pain to have to strap them to the shelf, but it works well.

Here is a closer picture of the hardware I used to finish them last night.