Attn: DRZ400 Owners

well i don't know any mods for it but i know the break in procedure i used on my 4 stroke and it has worked extremly well. I would ride for about an hour at a time then let the bike set and completely cool off before i rode again. For about the first 10 times of this i didn't get the bike past half throttle. After i did that i would ride the bike for maybe a little over a hour at a time but wouldn't keep it in the high rpm's for more than a couple of seconds. I did this about 8 to 10 times also. After that i was off to riding normal. When i broke my bike in it was winter time so you might want to shorten the riding time up a little. I can tell this really worked great because i have rode other 4-wheelers/ dirtbike with improperly broke in motors and there is a huge differnce in power. This method worked best for me and i hope somehting similar to this could help your friend also.

The DRZ manual will tell you. I rode mine easy about 5 hours then changed oil, checked plug. Then dropped the hammer.

Recommend 5-10 hour oil changes for first 2 months then every 800-1000 miles. Has worked for me. 01 kicker has over 3000 miles with no problems.

GREASE the shock linkage. Mine and many others have been shipped DRY.

MOD's Many re-jet and re-pipe. I run totally stock. A 13 tooth countershaft sprocket works great for tight stuff.

Brian

Pull the cover off the airbox and bump the main jet up to a 158-160. That is the most bang for your $3 you'll get out of it.

A few things:
---Grind the sharp edge off of the shifter, it'll go through the cover in a bad dump.

---Rejet to 160mj/ stock pilot with stock exhaust and lid removed
---Rejet to 165mj/ 45 pilot with new exhaust and lid removed.

---I have the model EKP needle in it. It is a yamaha part, a fatter needle than the OXBN (stock) needle. Gives a bigger midrange pull. I don't have the part number on hand, I'll get it though. It's like 11 bucks at a Yammie dealer, sudco.com may have it or carbparts.com.

---Taller handle bars are needed if over 5'9 or so, Jimmy Button renthals are the tallest (and best, IMO)

---Extended shifter may be needed too (bajadesigns)

---BK mod (limits the "squirt" in the carb, reduces off idle bog to minimum, do a search or go to thumpertalk.com)

---Keep an eye on the water pump cover, some of them weep alittle bit.

---A good skid plate (bajadesigns is the best bang for the buck)

---Thumpertalk also has cool ign/clutch cover gaurds, better than the Bajadesigns ones.

---Watch the battery, some have had problems with it draining.

As far as changing the oil, do it earlier than every 800-1000 miles! That is a very long stretch for a dirtbike! I change mine every 15 hours of riding.

Use non-synthetic until FULLY broken in, then switch to a high grade synthetic. This will keep power/shifting to a premium.

Lets see, what else...the valve that tightens up first is the right intake, uh...oh yeah, the suspension is a little bit soft. If over 180lbs or so, new springs/revalve of suspenders will be needed for racing. If under 180, maybe a revalve only. THis is only neccesary for big jumps/racing.

I have the 2001 DRZ400E, about 2000 miles or so, all off-road. I am 240 lbs/ 6 foot, I did not do the suspension and I have lived with it. It truly is a great bike, I have not had ANY problems with my bike. I do kinda beat on it too, I use WOT about 70% of the time I'd say. I have only done basic maitenance, very miticulous about it though.

Most importantly, HAVE FUN!!! :)