I have the stock triple clamps with the rubber mounts. the bars are constantly twisting in a fall. I have tried the one piece top bar mount (devol), and it helps, but twisting is still a problem. would a new top triple clamp with solid mounts help? I believe you can take out the rubber inserts in the stock clamp and replace them with aluminum inserts....any suggestions???
bar twist
- Thread starter cheapo
- Start date
Tom Ludolff
Member
- Oct 3, 2002
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- 0
Try tightening the nuts on the rubber mounts more, and tighten the clamps up as well, And stop falling down!!!
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
Hey Cheapo,
Where in Warren County are you? I'm in Franklin.
Where in Warren County are you? I'm in Franklin.
I don't understand what you mean by "twisting". If you mean the bars are rotating up or down in the handlebar clamps, that has nothing to do with the rubber bushings. When you tighten the handlebar clamps, is there still space between the upper and lower clamp on each side? If there is, you can try tightening them more. If there isn't any space, your bars are bigger (in diameter) than the clamps were designed for and you can't get them tight enough. I would suggest getting a new handlebar with a knurled section where the clamps grip it.
BREAD, you can buy any standard 7/8 inch handle bar. Cheapo, you have a choice either u like the rubber mounted bars for there non-jarring they provide and live with some twist when u fall or go to the aluminum inserts as you suggested. Basically all the people that replied have valid points, the choice is now up to you.
v/r Ted
v/r Ted
If your bars are too small in diameter for the clamps. I would suggest trying to wrap the clamped part of the bar with aluminum foil. You should be able to keep the foil narrower than the clamp so that it looks good. It may take several wraps to make it large enough to hold.
Or.. file the flat faces on the clamp so that they tighten on the bars before they mate face-to-face.
Personally I'd try the second remedy first. The aluminum foil may allow the bar to twist anyway.
Let us know what happens,
Or.. file the flat faces on the clamp so that they tighten on the bars before they mate face-to-face.
Personally I'd try the second remedy first. The aluminum foil may allow the bar to twist anyway.
Let us know what happens,
- Thread starter
- #12
RV6 junkie, I'm from washington twp, moved there not too long ago...any good places to ride around here?
Thanks for the suggestions. The problem isn't the bars are too small. They are clamped in without any gaps. The problem seems more that the clamp posts that run through the triple clamp shift slightly, when the rubber compresses. The bars then shift and are not perpendicular to the front wheel... ...if that makes any sense.
Thanks for the suggestions. The problem isn't the bars are too small. They are clamped in without any gaps. The problem seems more that the clamp posts that run through the triple clamp shift slightly, when the rubber compresses. The bars then shift and are not perpendicular to the front wheel... ...if that makes any sense.
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
Cheapo;
The tracks that run through town lead to many good trails. Do you have access to them? There are some good places to park. The most popular being the old ACME on 57E. On a weekend you'll notice many bike trailers around the back.
Of course, if you have bike transportation there are a lot of great trails and tracks within one to two hours.
The tracks that run through town lead to many good trails. Do you have access to them? There are some good places to park. The most popular being the old ACME on 57E. On a weekend you'll notice many bike trailers around the back.
Of course, if you have bike transportation there are a lot of great trails and tracks within one to two hours.
Check these out. Stops the twisting from the cheapo oem rubber.
http://www.appliedrace.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-3934.html?E+scstore
http://www.appliedrace.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-3934.html?E+scstore
I GOT IT! I finally think I know what's going on here. It doesn't make sense that the bars are twisting in the triple clamps. The rubber bushings don't allow for that much movement. What is happening is that the FORKS are twisting in the triple clamps, and that makes your handlbars not perpendicular to the front wheel. This happens all the time after a crash. There are too things you can do. One is to make sure the fork tubes are clamped tight in the triple clamps. There are four bolts on each fork....two at the top triple clamp and two at the bottom. If these bolts are good and snug, then you simply have to straighten your forks after a fall. A good way to do this is to wack the side of the front tire against a tree to twist the forks back straight.
These might help - http://www.scottsperformance.com/indexframe.html#accessories.htm
"Bar Mount Replacement Cones: If you have rubber mounting cones in your triple clamps, i.e. KDX, KX's, CR500's, have you ever noticed how your bars flex and mis-align easily. Scotts now offers a set of high density replacement cones made from Sanaprene thermal plastic elastomer. These act and feel like rubber but are far superior. They replace the stock rubber cones that allow your handlebars to flex and even appear to be bent. Scotts replacement cones incorporate an injection molded aluminum top washer, which eliminates all the top-hat washers that come with your stock units. Made for KDX, KX, and CR's that use rubber mounted perches these replacements are 30% more dense so they still allow good vibration absorption but won't allow the mis-alignment and "over-flexing" found with the stock units. Price: $19.95"
"Bar Mount Replacement Cones: If you have rubber mounting cones in your triple clamps, i.e. KDX, KX's, CR500's, have you ever noticed how your bars flex and mis-align easily. Scotts now offers a set of high density replacement cones made from Sanaprene thermal plastic elastomer. These act and feel like rubber but are far superior. They replace the stock rubber cones that allow your handlebars to flex and even appear to be bent. Scotts replacement cones incorporate an injection molded aluminum top washer, which eliminates all the top-hat washers that come with your stock units. Made for KDX, KX, and CR's that use rubber mounted perches these replacements are 30% more dense so they still allow good vibration absorption but won't allow the mis-alignment and "over-flexing" found with the stock units. Price: $19.95"
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
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Mcrider..re: fork twist, not bar twist.
For whatever reason, it seems other bike forks do indeed get wonky in the clamps, but kdxs don't seem to have that problem.
Certainly the bars DO get wonky when the bushings get tweaked. Normally the one piece top clamp idea either fixes that completely or helps considerably.
Either hi-durometer utrethane replacements or some other kinda materal (being discussed).
Thanks for the link, braahp!
For whatever reason, it seems other bike forks do indeed get wonky in the clamps, but kdxs don't seem to have that problem.
Certainly the bars DO get wonky when the bushings get tweaked. Normally the one piece top clamp idea either fixes that completely or helps considerably.
Either hi-durometer utrethane replacements or some other kinda materal (being discussed).
Thanks for the link, braahp!
- Thread starter
- #21
I'll look into the bushing replacements; thanks for the advice. I've also seen one piece top triple clamps assemblies, where the bar clamps are actually part of the triple clamp, as opposed to bolting through them. I do have the one piece top bar clamp and it has helped...still some minor twisting.