Basic questions about my 07 KX100

Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
20
Likes
0
#1
I bought my 07 KX100 about 3 weeks ago brand new. Since then I have changed the transmission fluid 2 times and replaced my spark plug about 4 times. It is running great other than the spark plugs fouling. The bike is totally stock other than an FMF Q silencer.

First off, how often will I have to repack my silencer? How will I know when I need to repack it? Lastly, what is a good packing to use?

Also, how often will I need to get my engines top-end rebuilt? With my casual riding, do you think maybe I could just replace the piston rings every year and the piston eveyr 2 years or so?

Anyways, my first question is: How often should I change the transmission fluid? I ride like every other day or so for an hour or so. Never raced and probably never will.

My next question is: Sometimes when I start my bike cold (but in the summer so it isn't actually "cold") it will just putter around the yard. Whenever I give it gas, it will bog down and almost stall unless I let go of the gas. That has happened 2 times and both of the times I changed my spark plug and it made it perfect again. But does that mean something when the plugs foul so fast?

Thanks!
 

kawicam250

I bleed green!
Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Messages
1,162
Likes
0
#2
binaryterror said:
I bought my 07 KX100 about 3 weeks ago brand new. Since then I have changed the transmission fluid 2 times and replaced my spark plug about 4 times. It is running great other than the spark plugs fouling. The bike is totally stock other than an FMF Q silencer.

First off, how often will I have to repack my silencer? How will I know when I need to repack it? Lastly, what is a good packing to use?

Also, how often will I need to get my engines top-end rebuilt? With my casual riding, do you think maybe I could just replace the piston rings every year and the piston eveyr 2 years or so?

Anyways, my first question is: How often should I change the transmission fluid? I ride like every other day or so for an hour or so. Never raced and probably never will.

My next question is: Sometimes when I start my bike cold (but in the summer so it isn't actually "cold") it will just putter around the yard. Whenever I give it gas, it will bog down and almost stall unless I let go of the gas. That has happened 2 times and both of the times I changed my spark plug and it made it perfect again. But does that mean something when the plugs foul so fast?

Thanks!



if its really bone stock( with the exception of the silencer), then the jetting is rich, typical for stock bikes from the factory. you need to lean out your mixture and give it more time to warm up. also, what plug are you running? if youre not already running this one, try a BR9EG/BR9ES( basically the same thing) or you could go to the more expensive BR9EIX, an iridium plug.
 
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
20
Likes
0
#3
The plug I am running doesnt have symbols like that on the side. It says R6252K-105. This is what the guy at the dealer said to use. Also, with the jetting, I have no idea how to take my carb off. It does not say how to in the manual either. Do you know of a website with pics showing step-by-step how to take off the carb?

Thanks!
 
Joined
Jun 15, 2007
Messages
36
Likes
0
#4
To take off your carb, you have to disconnect the airbox boot, the throttle cable, and the boot leading from the carb to the engine. For the two boots, all you should have to do is loosen the two clamps on each one,(one clamp for each boot) and then the carb should just slide out of each boot. For the throttle cable, there are two screws on the top of the slide assembly cover. Just take them both out, pull off the cover, and the slide assembly should come right out. As for the packing you should replace it as soon as you notice the bike becoming excessively loud and a good packing to use is either Moose or FMF. The top-end should be rebuilt once the bike starts losing compression and power which you should be able to feel. That is all of the info I can give you right now and I hope it helps! :cool:
 
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
20
Likes
0
#5
That helps a ton! But I think I have been replacing spark plugs without them being fouled. How do I know when a plug is fouled? I always replaced them when the bike bogs down when I start riding after it was sitting for a day or so.
 
Joined
Jun 15, 2007
Messages
36
Likes
0
#6
That is when you know it is fouled, the same thing used to happen to my friend's 2007 kx100 and it kept happening until we got his jetting straightened out. When the bike would bog and not want to rev, we would replace the plug and it would run fine until it fouled it again.
 

kawicam250

I bleed green!
Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Messages
1,162
Likes
0
#7
binaryterror said:
That helps a ton! But I think I have been replacing spark plugs without them being fouled. How do I know when a plug is fouled? I always replaced them when the bike bogs down when I start riding after it was sitting for a day or so.


youll know its fouled if it bogged down to the point to where it stalls the engine and wont start back up.
 
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
20
Likes
0
#8
Well mine will always start back up. Its just as the bike is warming up it bogs to the point of stalling. Then it gets better. With the jetting, I have a guide printed out, but from what my bike is doing, what would you suggest adjusting? Will I have to buy different size jets or will I only have to adjust the needle with the clip on it.
 
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
153
Likes
0
#9
hey if you are buying so many plugs take your old ones and if you have a blow torch warm them up and get all the oil off until the tip of the inside and thing covering it is a nice mocha brown then you have a perfectly fine spark plug. just helps save a couple bucks but somethimes you just have to throw a plug away at the least change it every year.
 
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Messages
329
Likes
1
#10
Lean the needle one clip position and open the air screw up another 1/4 turn and go from there as a starting point. You may end up leaning the main and the pilot too. I don't know what elevation you are located at or in what temperatures you are riding, so it is impossible to tell you exact jetting, but from my experience with the KX100's the needle normaly needs leaned out one position. These bikes come from the factory jetted very very rich!
 
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
20
Likes
0
#11
Ok I will attempt to take the carb out and adjust the needle 1 clip (up or down? I have never seen it before). I do have the take the carb off right?
 
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Messages
329
Likes
1
#12
Just remove the seat and tank, you can remove the two screws holding the slide in the carb and lift it straight up and out of the carb. Move the clip one position up the needle, this will lower the needle and lean the midrange out.
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
203
Likes
0
#13
As Griff stated the needle is the key. Your stock needle is a NAPF. The next leaner is a NAPG. Kawasaki offers a bunch of optional needles for the KX 85/100. Take advantage of their great selection and dial in your jetting. It will give you a huge boost in low end. We use KX needles in our YZ85 and luv'em :nod:
 
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
20
Likes
0
#14
Wait aren't there 2 jets? I am going to the dirt bike store today and I am going to buy some leaner jets if I can but I dont know what to tell them size wise.
 
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Messages
329
Likes
1
#15
One size leaner pilot jet would be a #42, stock is #45
One size leaner main jet would be a #135, stock is #138
Stock needle clip position is 4th groove from the top so I would go to the 3rd groove from the top as a starting point.