Basic trailer size question

T

trout

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Apr 23, 2003

303

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• Jun 8, 2003

• #1

Sorry guys, search wouldnt work for me.

I am trying to figure out what size utility trailer I will need to haul three bikes. 1 CR250 and 1 xr100 and 1 crf150.

Also, does anyone pull just using the bumper?
Our ford explorer has a ball on the bumper, can it handle a three-bike trailer?

Im checking the papers, also does anyone know a manufacturer of three-railed trailers?

Thanks.

 

T

tnrider

Sponsoring Member

Jun 8, 2003

576

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• Jun 9, 2003

• #2

I pull 3-bikes (2-adult 1-kid) with my 98-explorer (v6-205hp) and my 99-ranger (v6 160hp) on a 5x10 tilt trailer. can't use the last 2-feet of trailer (see below) so 5x8 should work fine. however, recommend that you go to 6' or wider though as will make loading easier. get 6x10 and mount an equipment box up front - real handy... explorer (sohc 205hp) pulls like a champ but is "busy" just driving - ranger (160hp) works and gets poor mileage (gearing/power off compared to explorer) but is not as "busy" trailering. think this is because ranger has longer wheel-base

I use both explorer and ranger to pull my 3500-lb boat (with surge brakes but weight will "punt" you first) and plan to use to pull similar enclosed trailer (electric brakes). both are rated at greater than 5000-lbs with auto transmission. above 3500-lbs want (NEED) weight distro hitch though - is a $200 safty feature.

DO NOT get a tilt trailer - dealer talked me in to this 5-years ago (my utility trailer) as everyone rides ATVs around here... I have never used the tilt option AND because of construction technique and design, tilts waste the back of the trailer. The wheels are typically positioned mid-trailer box and if using the back of the trailer will "unweight" the trailer hitch causing handling problems. Other thing is that they typically are constructed with a single beam to the hitch (not triangular 3-beam as regular trailers) to facilitate the "tilt" operation. This results in an unstable platform that will sway easily - not a good thing at speed and I wonder about metal fatigue to welds.

Ok, so I have over analyzed the situation - but have been planning my own trailer move lately too...

 

T

trout

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Apr 23, 2003

303

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• Jun 10, 2003

• Thread starter
• #3

So would a basic 4x8 utility trailer suffice? Would the bumper w/a ball work ok?

My goal is to find a three-rail cycle trailer, but I may have to settle for a utility trailer.

 

Y

YZruss

Member

May 13, 2003

12

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• Jun 10, 2003

• #4

check the load rate for your bumper it's probably 2000lb load and 200lb tongue max. I tow a converted colman popup loaded with 2 MX bikes and a small quad. You should be ok

 

G

Green Horn

aka Chip Carbone

N. Texas SP

Jun 20, 1999

2,563

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• Jun 10, 2003

• #5

I'd go with a 5x8 and not 4x8. I have a 5x8 and can get 3 full size bikes on it with one turned the opposite direction. You also may want the extra width for things like gas jugs, equip, coolers etc... Also, I thought about getting a 3 rail back when I bought my utility. I decided that the 5x8 utility was perfect since it can do more than just haul bikes. :)

 

T

tnrider

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Jun 8, 2003

576

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• Jun 10, 2003

• #6

regarding any trailer - you must match the trailer hitch height to the trailer height. Not to do so can cause all kinds of problems from simply dragging the back of the trailer over objects to very poor handling that can cause accidents. Unless you are lucky - using a receiver hitch is the only way to do this as you can't adjust the height of the bumper hitch.

I first trailerd my utility trailer with the bumper hitch and it pulled poorly and I felt every bump. When I switched to a receiver hitch and leveled the trailer - I don't even notice the trailer with bikes now. These things are very inexpensive - around $100 - and take about 15min to install if you purchase a "no drill" version for your vehicle.

 

G

Green Horn

aka Chip Carbone

N. Texas SP

Jun 20, 1999

2,563

0

• Jun 10, 2003

• #7

Originally posted by tnrider
to very poor handling that can cause accidents. Unless you are lucky - using a receiver hitch is the only way to do this as you can't adjust the height of the bumper hitch.

Click to expand...

I totally agree. It scares me when I see people hauling ass down the highway with a "low to the ground" trailer whippin' back and forth. We have a receiver hitch on my wife's Mazda Tribute w/ a 2" drop in order to keep the trailer level with the vehicle. I am guessing that a Ford Explorer is going to be similar in ride height, so you may need to do the same. I made sure I got the tongue heighth from the guy who built my trailer. Then I parked the tow vehicle on level ground and measured from the receiver to the ground. Subtract or add the difference and that's what you'll need to get for a hitch.

 

H

Highbeam

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Jun 13, 2001

662

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• Jun 10, 2003

• #8

My 4x8 utility trailer with 2 foot sides is strictly a 2 full size bike trailer. Maybe a mini for a third, but the foot peg contact would be a problem. Works out fine since I only like to have 2 people in my truck.

 

J

jabroni1m

Member

Mar 14, 2003

96

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• Sep 8, 2003

• #9

Do you think this hitch would work on my car well http://www.etrailer.com/fitguidefmr.htm and be able to pull one bike on a small utility trailer?

 

C

Chili

Lifetime Sponsor - Photog Moderator

Apr 9, 2002

8,062

17

• Sep 8, 2003

• #10

I have a 5x8 and we load 3 bikes all the time with no trouble. I don't see anything smaller working for 3 bikes.

 

WaltCMoto

Sponsoring Member

Jan 1, 2001

1,933

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• Sep 8, 2003

• #11

Trout, Yacht Club has a 3 rail bike trailer. I would consider the 5x8 though for more versitility and resale value. If your bumper hitch doesnt carry the trailer level, it would be a good investment for the reciever type hitch.

 

T

tnrider

Sponsoring Member

Jun 8, 2003

576

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• Sep 13, 2003

• #12

couple of add-ons to my 5x10 trailer - tongue jack (no wheel) and 2-jack-stands. this allows me to balance the trailer and load bikes or leave on trailer w/o being attached to the truck. you can pickup both at any walmart or sears for very little $$$

oh, and the best trailering $25 i have ever spent is a mirror that i can hang off my tailgate or explorer back window and allows me to back into position w/o a spotter - my wife really appreciates this purchase too!!! i got mine from www.cabelas.com - have not seen elsewhere.

 

OnAnySunday

Big Pig

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Nov 20, 2000

997

3

lost in the deserts of NM

• Sep 13, 2003

• #13

I pull a 4x8 kit trailer -w- a 2.9l B2 automatic. (140 bhp)
No problems.
Usually only haulin 1 bike but have done 2 before.
(2 bikes and one trike in a pinch.)
It has the tilt feature and the B2 has a bumper hitch.
Works great for me.
Trans. shifts around a bit on hills even -w- the optional 3.73 gears, but seems very stabil.
It did great at 80+ thru Texas and OK. on the way to DW02.
Guess it depends on what yer used to.

 

P

plykins

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Apr 6, 2002

166

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• Sep 20, 2003

• #14

I have a 5x8 utility that I made & installed tree rails & couple of brackets. It will haul 4 bikes, three full size & one smaller(XR-80). Pulled it with 4 bikes to Colorado from Texas this summer with my Blazer & had no problems at all. Got some pics if you would like to look.

 

B

Bandit9

Member

Jul 14, 2002

449

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• Sep 22, 2003

• #15

Plykins, I am interested in your pics. I built my 5x10 and set it up for 3 bikes. I used too heavy of material though and it kill my 4 banger Tacoma. Thinking about making another lighter one. Send me some pics. I like seeing other ideas. blanco9@att.net

 

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GAnderson

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Dec 5, 2002

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• Sep 25, 2003

• #16

Bandit- what did you use for your 5x10 - my "trucklette" (4-cyl Tacoma) barely feels my 5x10. My enclosed 5x8 is harder to tow (Pulling a wall through the air - I guess).

 

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burchdogs

Member

Mar 7, 2003

138

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• Oct 1, 2003

• #17

have you guys seen this site: http://www.kwmarketing.com/

 

B

Bandit9

Member

Jul 14, 2002

449

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• Oct 3, 2003

• #18

Ganderson, I used 2x3x1/4 angle iron for my frame and crossmembers. 2x2x3/16 for the top rail. 5 1/4 boards for the floor. I also have a 4" channel iron running across the front for my front wheel holders. Not too mention the aluminum tool box mounted on the first 2 foot of the trailer. I am going to make a 5x8 out of 2x2x1/4 with no top rail or toolbox on it. That should do the trick. My manual trans tacoma actually pulls it decent, but it is my 02 Camry that gives me fits with the auto tranny switching gears going over overpasses. Overall though, it is just way overbuilt for hauling bikes. My neighbor insisted on going with the heavy material and I just went along with it like a dummy. Anyhow, I am selling this one and building another one the way I want to do it.

 

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GAnderson

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Dec 5, 2002

20

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• Oct 4, 2003

• #19

I used 2x2x3/16 for frame/crossmembers/toprail and put expanded metal floor (can't remember the gauge) and have not had a problem even when fully loaded (entire floor covered plus about 1 foot above top rail) with gear bags and rescue equipment (heavy!). Eliminating the wood floor really lightened it up (pulled it occasionally with my 300zx) plus it looks pretty slick! I just have to throw down some thin plywood or masonite if loading with dirt/etc. Have fun - you can never have too many trailers - just too many license plates to renew!!!!!!!

 

B

Bandit9

Member

Jul 14, 2002

449

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• Oct 4, 2003

• #20

GAnderson, what do you use as a loading ramp? Currently I used a 2x12 that doubles as my rear gate. What did you use for your tongue? I can't decide between a A frame or 2" tubing. How about your axle? I bought an axle kit for the first trailer but I already have the hubs welded to a flimsy 1.5" piece of channel iron. I am thinking about welding that channel iron inside another thicker piece of channel iron for a better axle. The only thing I want to spend money this time around will be the material and coupler. I think I can find enough stuff around here to piece one together. I have a 7ft 2x2x1/4 tube I can't decide whether to use for the tongue or axle.

 

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GAnderson

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Dec 5, 2002

20

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• Oct 7, 2003

• #21

I just have a loading ramp - no rear gate. I do put a ratchet strap or tie down across the back just as a safety so nothing slides off the back. For the tongue I used a single 3" channel which was a clean fit with the coupler. I ran it halfway back underneath the trailer (ties into 3 crossmembers.) I think a triangular config is slightly more stable but I have not had a problem. My axle is pretty heavy duty (huge bearings) - I believe it is 2x2x1/4. I would use the tubing for the axle - makes mounting springs easy and I would hate to have anything brake on an axle. I've had a spring break on another trailer (can't remember the manufacturer) and destroy the flimsy axle. I'll try to find the pics I took while building.......